lamacchiacosta

I have the same problem, where I cannot get tethering working. I come from a X-T3 and never had any issues. I am on a McOS 12.6.3 X Acquire 1.24.0.4 X-T5 firmware 1.03 - Camera settings are: "Network/USB Setting - Connection Mode - USB tether shooting AUTO" "USB power supply/comm setting" I tried both AUTO and Power supply OFF/COMM ON When I plug in the cable the "plug" icon on the lower left comes up, so I guess is charging (no matter my settings), but I'd like to communicate instead. X Acquire on the top left of the menu bar remains white. I am using the same cables I always used with my X-T3. USBC to USB3. As they are stating X Acquire is compatible also with the X-T20, I tried to plug in that as well, but on the camera there are no tethering settings, so obviously it won't work Any advices on setting I should check? Many thanks

Hello everyone, on the front of the Godox TT685 there is a connector to plug some external power in. The manual do not mention it, and I read around it's a "Canon" connector. Does anyone have more info about it, like the model number of such connector and what's the input voltage? I'd like to build some adapter to use it with V-lock camera batteries. Thank you.

Whatever works to get a clear image of the X-tran sensor. If that "workaround" doesn't work for you, you are free to use whatever float your boat. No need to start a distorted mood discussion. The tools are out there and anyone choose their photographic weapons.

I would shoot RAW+Jpeg if I was you and tweak the RAW file.

It actually does. To avoid re-writing the all system and keep retro compatibility, they manage X-trans sensors through the "Enhance details" function, for RAW pictures. You have to enable that (it will create a new .dng image) and reduce Sharpening to zero to see the worms disappear and finally have a great starting point for your editing.

Try to use Fujifilm X Acquire and assign Lightroom as opening software from there, to see if it works.

I would say so. The flashlight system is the same on the camera, and I'll take for granted it will work.

Another option could be to buy second hand. If you are patient you could find some very low shutter count in immaculate conditions.

With Fujifilm cameras, on LR you have to "Enhance Details" and bring Sharpening down to zero to have an excellent starting point for x-trans.

Hi, yes all the flashlights work over the ss of 1/250. When I use them independently (not in Slave mode) they do what they are made for. Bot units have the latest firmware, I don't think they are prevented to flash when over ss.

Hello, I would like to understand a bit more deeply about using flashlights. I've got a Godox TT685 on my camera or triggered with a Xpro. I also have a couple of manual Yongnuo YN660 I'd like to use not to let them gather dust on the shelf. In order to do that, I set them as slave, so they will flash when the sensor will trigger them. When I get over the maximum speed sync of 1/250 on my X-T3, the Yongnuo won't flash, either in S1 and S2 (the Yongnuo), both in TTL and manual modes (the Godox). Could anyone explain why? Many thanks in advance.

Hello, I am glad @teaandcake went to Fujifilm. I did the move a while ago buying the X-T20, coming form Nikon and previously Canon and I was blown away. Now I added a X-T3 and I won't probably go anywhere else for the time being. I've been doing some comparative tests with different software to see how can get the best from the X-Trans sensor, finding myself in a similar situation. Long story short, I am now down to Camera Raw (which is also in LR) with "Enhance details" .dng photos and Capture One Express (which won't export .dng for business reasons, I think). If you work a bit with the sharpening on both software you will get exactly the same level of definition. In Camera Raw is under "Edit - Detail", while in Capture One is in "Quick - Sharpening" AND "Details - Sharpening" (so in Capture One you have to work twice). I would start from 0 on both. Also in Capture One you have to turn down to 0 the Noise Reduction. "Details - Noise Reduction". Zeroing all these pre-loaded settings, will get you exact results. In terms of treating the pixel, I find Capture One being slightly (just slightly) better but only if you zoom up to the pixel you will notice it, so in real life this difference won't never be seen. My conclusion is, between the two tools, use the one you like and feel familiar most, so play with both and set yourself at ease. Helping to choose it's also dependant on your circle of photography friends. I am staying on Camera Raw because everyone I know use Adobe, but I will play a bit with Capture One to see what has to offer.

Looks like it's one of the incompatibilities of the Yongnuo. I am trying with Godox gear (which is X friendly) and all seems working correctly.

Hello, just reading at the manual, I found out that my Yongnuo YN560-TXII controller, is supporting "Multi Flash Frequency & Flash count". Strobo flash photography is a new technique to me, so I wanted to have a go to learn something new. I then mounted it on top of my X-T3 and tried to do some strobo Off Camera Flash with it, paired with a YN660 speedlite, without success. When the flash gets triggered by the controller, it flashes only once. When I press the "test" button on the speedlite it works correctly. When I mount the speedlite directly on the camera hotshoe, the multi mode works correctly. Is there anything I am missing or the multimode won't work through a controller (despite being available)? Thank you.

Great, I misread your message and I thought you needed to extract metadata from movies, instead of stills. I use ExifTool for a long while now and it's an amazing tool!