lamacchiacosta

Hello,
I am glad @teaandcake went to Fujifilm. I did the move a while ago buying the X-T20, coming form Nikon and previously Canon and I was blown away. Now I added a X-T3 and I won't probably go anywhere else for the time being.
I've been doing some comparative tests with different software to see how can get the best from the X-Trans sensor, finding myself in a similar situation.
Long story short, I am now down to Camera Raw (which is also in LR) with "Enhance details" .dng photos and Capture One Express (which won't export .dng for business reasons, I think).
If you work a bit with the sharpening on both software you will get exactly the same level of definition. In Camera Raw is under "Edit - Detail", while in Capture One is in "Quick - Sharpening" AND "Details - Sharpening" (so in Capture One you have to work twice). I would start from 0 on both.
Also in Capture One you have to turn down to 0 the Noise Reduction. "Details - Noise Reduction".
Zeroing all these pre-loaded settings, will get you exact results.
In terms of treating the pixel, I find Capture One being slightly (just slightly) better but only if you zoom up to the pixel you will notice it, so in real life this difference won't never be seen.
My conclusion is, between the two tools, use the one you like and feel familiar most, so play with both and set yourself at ease. Helping to choose it's also dependant on your circle of photography friends. I am staying on Camera Raw because everyone I know use Adobe, but I will play a bit with Capture One to see what has to offer.

Hello,
I am glad @teaandcake went to Fujifilm. I did the move a while ago buying the X-T20, coming form Nikon and previously Canon and I was blown away. Now I added a X-T3 and I won't probably go anywhere else for the time being.
I've been doing some comparative tests with different software to see how can get the best from the X-Trans sensor, finding myself in a similar situation.
Long story short, I am now down to Camera Raw (which is also in LR) with "Enhance details" .dng photos and Capture One Express (which won't export .dng for business reasons, I think).
If you work a bit with the sharpening on both software you will get exactly the same level of definition. In Camera Raw is under "Edit - Detail", while in Capture One is in "Quick - Sharpening" AND "Details - Sharpening" (so in Capture One you have to work twice). I would start from 0 on both.
Also in Capture One you have to turn down to 0 the Noise Reduction. "Details - Noise Reduction".
Zeroing all these pre-loaded settings, will get you exact results.
In terms of treating the pixel, I find Capture One being slightly (just slightly) better but only if you zoom up to the pixel you will notice it, so in real life this difference won't never be seen.
My conclusion is, between the two tools, use the one you like and feel familiar most, so play with both and set yourself at ease. Helping to choose it's also dependant on your circle of photography friends. I am staying on Camera Raw because everyone I know use Adobe, but I will play a bit with Capture One to see what has to offer.

I live in Europe, just got my X-T3 for €850 from amazon warehouse deals second hand with 4 shots on it. 
Checked with: https://www.apotelyt.com/camera-exif/fujifilm-shutter-count

Hello,
I am glad @teaandcake went to Fujifilm. I did the move a while ago buying the X-T20, coming form Nikon and previously Canon and I was blown away. Now I added a X-T3 and I won't probably go anywhere else for the time being.
I've been doing some comparative tests with different software to see how can get the best from the X-Trans sensor, finding myself in a similar situation.
Long story short, I am now down to Camera Raw (which is also in LR) with "Enhance details" .dng photos and Capture One Express (which won't export .dng for business reasons, I think).
If you work a bit with the sharpening on both software you will get exactly the same level of definition. In Camera Raw is under "Edit - Detail", while in Capture One is in "Quick - Sharpening" AND "Details - Sharpening" (so in Capture One you have to work twice). I would start from 0 on both.
Also in Capture One you have to turn down to 0 the Noise Reduction. "Details - Noise Reduction".
Zeroing all these pre-loaded settings, will get you exact results.
In terms of treating the pixel, I find Capture One being slightly (just slightly) better but only if you zoom up to the pixel you will notice it, so in real life this difference won't never be seen.
My conclusion is, between the two tools, use the one you like and feel familiar most, so play with both and set yourself at ease. Helping to choose it's also dependant on your circle of photography friends. I am staying on Camera Raw because everyone I know use Adobe, but I will play a bit with Capture One to see what has to offer.

Hey X-Folks..
 
I just wanted to know what you guys would say about new compositon grids in the viewfinder / lcd screen. One of the advantages of Mirrorless with EVF is basically that you can put anything in there from histrogram to framing guidelines.. most people will have the thirds grid on which shows the rule of third lines.. the other possibilities would be the 24 grid mode which has many lines and the 16:9 mode..
How about more lines and more useful ones? Like the Golden Ratio and Spirale (mirrored in all directions) diagonals, a horizontal line for symmetry and more.. I would love to see Fuji implementing these into the Screen Info.. They don't hurt.. nobody needs to use them.. Their existence wouldnt mess up the menu. They would be a useful addition in some cases.. Getting a symmetrical shot can be hard and most of us end up cropping alot afterwards.
I like this one(dont know the name):

I bought the Meikon Seafrog in the end and at the moment I am still testing it before bringing my camera underwater. Everything looks like working smoothly and I did a test dive to see if I had any leakings but it seems there is none. It also had a sensor that activates a beeping alarm and a flashing LED light in case of any water leaks in.
Works with the standard 3.5-5.6 XC lens, which I had to buy separately. Luckily I found a very good deal on eBay, which means that for about £300 investment I have the chance to shoot underwater. Shown that to my teachers and other divers I dive with and they all look impressed by it, for the price.
At the moment I am back home with no chance to dive again until I finish my course theory, but I will keep you posted.

Try also darktable, opensource:

https://www.darktable.org/