Phil

I upload the full res JPG to Flickr, and post from there using the Share arrow. For posting on forums you want to use the BBCode. I like Flickr because most forums don't have a hard time resizing it, the mobile app makes it easy to download a photo to my phone to share on Instagram, and on the computer you can download multiple resolutions (small, medium, large, and full res). I use that as a quick fix for when I need to resize a photo to meet upload limits. I have the 18mm and have never had an issue with its sharpness, other than when looking at the entire frame for a landscape (I really need to get a better landscape lens ). To me it seems more or less as sharp as the 35 in the centre - definitely at normal viewing sizes.

I definitely agree about the responsiveness. Little things like hitting the playback button to check a shot seems a bit slower on my X-T1. Interestingly, though, I found the AF accuracy to be phenomenal compared to my Canons, and noticed a bit of an issue with the speed (the last wedding I shot with a DSLR was with a D750, and I noticed the 85 1.4G to be similarly slow in lower light, though). Personally, I find the X-T1 a bit light. For taking out and about with my wife or friends I don't mind it, but I'd still prefer it to be a bit heavier. If I could have my way, I'd like the X-T1 body only to weigh as much as the body + grip do now, and it would be nice if the grip was a bit heavier than it is now. I love the small size (easier to take around every day, less intimidating, etc) but I find it a bit awkwardly light, and find I can hold it steadier with a bit of extra weight. Here are some from the last wedding I shot. It was almost entirely the 23mm + 35mm. I used the 35mm more than I thought I would. Looking to get the 56 ASAP. DSCF0064 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr DSCF0345 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr DSCF0184-3 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr DSCF0217 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr DSCF0227 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr DSCF0459 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr

If you can shoot what you need at a wedding with the two lenses you have, I'd say get a second body. I only have one body right now, and on most jobs I find myself wishing I had a second. Add the fact that you never know what might go wrong, and a second body is a requirement for serious paid work.

Apparently it's the weekend of headshots. My wife needed a headshot for her student card at teacher's college (don't ask me why they didn't take it themselves, I've never seen it done this way before). It's supposed to be pretty plain, so I just did one light. DawnHeadshot by Phil Babbey, on Flickr And here's a candid one. DawnHeadshotBW by Phil Babbey, on Flickr

Here's a portrait of my dad that I made yesterday. He works in IT at the college in my town, and is speaking at a conference this fall and needed a headshot. TBHeadshot by Phil Babbey, on Flickr

I've been meaning to pick up a couple Wasabis and a charger (I hate that Fuji charger ). I used to work at Future Shop (same products as Best Buy) and I got two DigiPower replacement batteries for the X-T1, purely because they were so cheap with my staff discount that it was worth trying. I've had great luck with them. If I'm just bringing my camera with me daily I'll keep the Fuji battery in, but the last wedding I shot, I used the battery grip, and I started with both DigiPower batteries and had the Fuji battery as the spare. I shot just over 600 shots that day and didn't even drain the first battery. That was a mix of using mostly EVF + eye sensor, some eye sensor with the LCD, and turning it off when I had the chance.

My friend did a Year Beard challenge and hit the one year mark this month. We did a shoot for that so he has it officially on record and can finally trim it. DSCF0084 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr

I got a reply to my email. In the email, I asked if the door design has changed, and if I send the camera to be repaired, will it do the same thing in the future?

This is one of my biggest complaints about the X-T1. Another is no RAW above 6400 (even just 12800 would be nice). The noise control is great, and when there is noise it looks good, so why do we have such smoothed JPGs?

I just sent Fuji Canada another email - this one is a monster. It's a bad time (Friday night) and I probably won't hear back til Monday or Tuesday, but I'll post the reply when it comes.

For landscapes, what about the 10-24mm? It would be the most versatile. The 14mm 2.8 is supposed to have almost no distortion, so if you wouldn't mind a prime, you'll get straighter lines and slightly sharper corners out of it. The 18-135 would probably be the best bet out of the lenses you mentioned. It comes in a kit with the X-T1, so you can save some money on it, and it's the only weather sealed lens out of the ones being discussed. This gives you a versatile zoom range, and with it and the X-T1 you won't have to worry about the weather you're in. Personally, if you primarily shoot landscapes and cityscapes, I think either the 10-24 or 14 would be your best bet, unless you really need weather sealing.

From Ken's comparison to the X-T10: From his comparison to the X100T, literally the next thing on the page: If there is anyone in this world that needs to be taken with a huge grain of salt, it's Ken Rockwell. His reviews are completely useless, and are only really good for a laugh when you're bored. It would be fine if he was just giving his opinion on things, but even then there's no point in reading his reviews seriously, because he contradicts himself all the time like he does here.

I used a YN-460 on my X-T1 (with the grip) on Saturday and got pretty good results. For on-camera with Fujis, though, the Nissin i40 is the best choice right now. I'm trying to decide between picking up a Nissin and waiting to see what Fuji releases, if it ever happens. If the ceiling is even and white enough, I like using an on-camera bounce, but normally I just do direct flash and go for that specific look, instead. It's not very versatile, but it's consistent and predictable. DSCF0607 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr

I wonder what it would look like if they did develop one. The 23mm 1.4 is a pretty beefy lens. I know they could recess a lot more of it into the body because it'll be built-in, and they'd probably be okay with sacrificing some corner performance (wouldn't bother me), but I'd be really curious to see how it would actually look. I'd really like an X100T, but a lot of my shooting is in bars/restaurants and at night, and I'm at 1.4 the majority of the time. I wouldn't turn down a current X100, but 1.4 would make a big difference for me.

Apologies if this is redundant, but I don't see a dedicated wedding thread, and I'm sure we have a lot of wedding photographers here. I just shot a wedding today and am building the smart previews at the moment, but here are a few old ones from my X-T1. Heather and Tom by Phil Babbey, on Flickr DSCF0194 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr DSCF0435 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr DSCF0279 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr

I'm looking forward to the next generation. I'm not too picky about the resolution, but cleaner high ISO never hurts, and I'd like to see a higher native ISO. I'm happy with the IQ at 6400, but since Fuji's ISO meters a little darker than other brands, I'd like to be able to push it farther in RAW.

I'm going to root for the underdog and say the 18mm, especially if price is a concern. If you're going to be shooting in portrait orientation, the 18mm may be a little too wide for upper body portraits, but in landscape orientation it should work great, and you can get it for a great price right now. 35mm is the other classic choice if you want a little more compression.

I own it and am happy with it. It's not amazing on the edges but centre sharpness is perfectly fine. Maybe I'm imagining things, but it feels like my fastest focusing lens, despite being so old (I also own the 23mm and 35mm). I'd love to replace it with the 16mm, only because I shoot in the dark a lot and could use the extra stop. Because of that, and the fact that it's not too far from 23mm, I don't shoot the 18mm very often, but when I do, I remember how good it is. Especially for people photos, where extreme corner sharpness usually isn't a big deal. I mostly use it for group and reception photos when I'm using a flash. Other times I'll take it with the 35mm when I want a super compact setup that gives me some versatility, because I can fit those two in the same bag that will only fit the 23mm on my X-T1.

Pretty sure I've said this already, but it bears repeating. The 56 is next on my list, and I really want the 16 and 90, but I would put everything on hold if they released a super fast 50mm equivalent (as long as the price was around/under the $1000 mark). I like the 35, but almost always choose the 23 instead for practicality's sake (it's wider, so more versatile for what I usually shoot). I shoot in dark situations a lot, and a super fast ~35mm would get a lot of practical use, and it would make for some really unique photos.

Here's a headshot of my wife, taken with the 23mm at 1.4. Man, this thing is so sharp. DSCF0240 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr Screen Shot 2015-08-14 at 10.57.01 PM by Phil Babbey, on Flickr

I used to pretty much always leave the hoods on my 18 and 35, but since I got my 23 and don't like it's massive hood, I've been leaving all three at home. I'd love to find a smaller metal hood to use on the 23, but ideally I'd like something that will still mount the lens cap. Not sure if that's possible.

I switched to Fuji when I was faced with the decision of upgrading to a Canon 6D, or switching systems. The dilemma came about when I started seriously considering Nikon - my good photographer friends all shot Nikon, and I'd read so much on the internet about the dynamic range. I ended up switching to Fuji because I could only afford one camera, and since most of what I do is personal shooting, I didn't want to be dragging a full frame (and full frame glass) around everywhere. Enter the Fuji. It's small and discreet, and I literally take it with me almost everywhere. I brought it to a wedding my wife was in today, even though I wasn't hired to shoot it. Because of that, I was able to get this photo. I'm probably never going to see anything like this again, and I'm thrilled I was able to get a real photo of it, instead of an iPhone snap. DSCF0365 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr Apparently his name is Hank, by the way. I'm not sure what his story is, but he hangs around the venue (a family friend's amazing cottage) alone and is really social - more than any goose I've seen before.

Does this count? From a wedding my wife was in today. DSCF0365 by Phil Babbey, on Flickr

I totally forgot this. This and the speed light AF assist beam would be my first choices, hands down.

I don't know if this is possible via firmware, but I'd like to see an update to the flash system (mostly just support for the speed light's AF assist beam). HSS would be nice, and some triggers that will allow HSS, second curtain, etc. I wouldn't mind seeing a more specific B&W film stock, too. Even punching up the contrast a bit, I find the Monochrome a bit flat and awkward. I'd love to see something like Tri-X. Last for me, I wish you could choose to make the AF-L/Instant AF button work like the AF-On that DSLRs have. AF-S is fine as is, but I don't like how with AF-C, you have to use the shutter button for continuous focus. I find I can't shoot and keep focusing, I have to pick my finger up and re initiate focus. With back button AF, you can keep focusing and shoot when you want.