Therapeuo63

Does anyone know? Thx

The f1.4 version on eBay tend to sell within a wide range of prices from mid-$500s to upwards of $700 in similar condition. That's still hefty for a used lens.

Thanks very helpful and well done.

I'm on the fence but wouldn't be surprised if this becomes my primary focal length for environmental portraits. I keep finding myself using the 18-55 and it ends up on the 23mm setting a lot but I want a prime. I've read the reviews and watched a number of YouTube videos. I guess I don't HAVE to have the f1.4 extra stop. The performance of the f2 is obviously superior so my question is really on that nebulous and subjective term: RENDERING. Does the f1.4 offer that magical rendering over the f2 that is hard to quantify? My first lens was the 18-55 (meh) and then the 35 f2...really like it but not necessarily blown away. Then I got the 14mm...WOW. And now the 56..also WOW. Does anyone have thoughts who have used both?

I'm trying to learn off camera lighting. I used a 60 inch Photek Softlighter with an Einstein at 1/64 power camera left boomed high as a single light triggered with CyberSync. Savage thunder gray seamless backdrop. I over processed retouching probably in LR but was more concerned with getting the lighting correct than the portrait edits. Hard to take a pics of yourself using the self timer. X-T1 with 18-55.

First time I asked a stranger if I could photograph him. I met him on a forest trail and got to visiting with him. Interesting man with a fascinating past. Fuji x100s. Some edits just to my liking in Lightroom CC.

As far as I know the only studio lights compatible with Fuji right now supporting both TTL and HSS is Godox. I'm sure others will follow at some point, can't happen soon enough. There are a number of YouTube videos showing set-ups with Fuji X series and Godox lights.

As I understand it to do HSS with the X-T1/2 you basically have three options. 1. Cactus V6 with the RF60 or RF60X (or addnl V6s with some other brand flashes). B&H reviews and some others are indicating reliability issues and dissatisfaction. Apparently its cumbersome with some users reporting intermittent problems or inability to get it to work although some report no issues. The V6 II runs about $90 and the RF60X runs $185. Used RF60s which are discontinued run about $120 at Adorama. I guess the difference in the units is the new X model has better recycle time, greater RF distance and better user interface. Firmware is user upgradable. I think some folks are also using Godox with the V6. 2. Nissin line with the Air Commander. As of Jun 29 it was announced that shipments to vendors of the Fuji compatible Nissin products would have Firmware installed to support HSS. Supposedly it works well and has a pretty friendly user interface. Unclear if suppliers such as B&H or Adorama are shipping these yet based on what they have in stock. I've heard a red sticker of some sort is on the packaging of updated new units. Users can supposedly ship their hardware to Nissin for update although I'm not sure how that process works. You cannot load this update from home. So, it works but still very early in its implementation. The Nissin Air1 with the less expensive Di700 (as opposed to i60) is $299. Addnl flashes are $249 plus presumably the cost of shipping for Firmware updates. 3. The Fuji EF-X500 which runs $450 and but HSS is triggered via IR which may not be ideal in bright sun when HSS is most often used and is also line of sight. You could buy the Cactus or Nissin setup with a pair of flashes for about this price. I'm not sure on TTL use with any if these but I'm only interested in Manual use. Have I missed anything?

Issue has been resolved thanks.

Hi, I was using manual shutter and within the 1/180 sec or less sync speed. I reset the camera to default settings (again) and the issue has now cleared thankfully.

I even put the supplied camera flash on the hot shoe, set everything to TTL and although the flash unit fires the images are black as if no flash was used. I guess I'll have to try and contact Fuji and send it in for service. Really ticks me off.

I'm trying to use off camera flash with the X-T1. I'm using the FlashQ triggers. The flash units will fire but something is wrong and the camera is not capturing the properly exposed image...the pictures are black. In the Q menu the only flash options available are suppressed or M. The "OTHER FLASH SETTINGS" in the camera menu settings only allows red eye removal as an option. Very frustrating. Silent mode is off, shutter is set to manual (not electronic), burst mode is off. I reset the shooting and set-uo menu to factory default and the issue remains. I need to be able to mount a wireless trigger to the hot shoe in Manual exposure mode and dial in 1/180 sec or lower shutter speed and select an aperture manually...basic portrait set up. Everything works perfect on my x100s selecting External flash and on my Nikon DSLR. How do I break the code and enable this capability? Reading the manual is of no help. Thanks

I'm trying to use off camera flash with the X-T1. I'm using the FlashQ triggers. The flash units will fire but something is wrong and the camera is not capturing the properly exposed image...the pictures are black. In the Q menu the only flash options available are suppressed or M. The "OTHER FLASH SETTINGS" in the camera menu settings only allows red eye removal as an option. Very frustrating. Silent mode is off, shutter is set to manual (not electronic), burst mode is off. I reset the shooting and set-uo menu to factory default and the issue remains. I need to be able to mount a wireless trigger to the hot shoe in Manual exposure mode and dial in 1/180 sec or lower shutter speed and select an aperture manually...basic portrait set up. Everything works perfect on my x100s selecting External flash and on my Nikon DSLR. How do I break the code and enable this capability? Reading the manual is of no help. Thanks

I want to disable this. If I take a photo with people in it the camera is doing face detection and during image playback you cant zoom in or out on the photo like you can in photos without faces. Very annoying. I have looked in the manual and can't find this as I suspect perhaps the feature was added in a firmware upgrade? Anyway is there a way to turn face detection off permanently? I've been through the camera menus and can't find it...but it has been a long day. Thanks

Thanks

Unless you really need the fast f-stops the 18-55 will cover most of the waterfront.

Was curious what you prefer for editing portraits. I don't envision doing fashion that requires heavier retouching. I have the latest version of PSE and am wondering if that would be sufficient for light to medium-light retouching? Thanks

I discovered that the Wasabi batts get stick in my X-Pro1. I can get them out using a piece of tape so they are not stuck too firmly. I decided to sell my Pro1 (not because of this) and ordered a minty used X-T1 today. Does anyone know if this problem also occurs on the X-T1? I'm trying to avoid the high price tag of the Fuji OEM batteries so if anyone is using a different aftermarket batt what would you suggest? Thanks

I set up a custom setting for C1 and C2 modes. The problem is after shooting in one of these modes and trying to go back to BASIC the camera is retaining the C1 or C2 mode settings even though BASIC is now selected using the Q button. How can I solve this extremely frustrating quirk? I have book on "Mastering the x100s" and this isn't addressed anywhere. Thanks

Thanks for the review!

Hi all, does anyone have a recipe for adjusting one of the B&W film modes/filters that would roughly approximate the look of Kodak Tri-X Pan 400?

You might consider the 18-55 lens attached to your X-Pro1 as an option for when the primes don't fit the focal length you need. The 16mm is also worth checking out if you are simply looking to have a wide angle lens available on the 2nd body.

I realize the OVF has some advantages but am wondering why the X-Pro2 costs more given the X-T2's specs/features seem to be getting the nod in a number of areas...video, tilt screen, better EVF, button layout, dual card slots both high speed, battery grip, speed, etc. Is it a form factor thing?

A$$ kicking video by the way.

Would be interesting see a side by side comparison of both lenses at f2 showing the distortion with the newer lens.