umad?

I'd say it's easy:
 
12mm Samyang/Rokinon for Astro Photography
14mm for Travel (when weight/size counts)
16mm for ultimate performance - no compromise
10-24mm for flexibility. Nice lens, but for I'd take the primes over the (huge) zooms every time!

I love the XT2 joystick!
 
I'm surprised to see a thread like this. I use the joystick for every shoot and I wish my XT1 had one also. When I switch back to my XT1 with the directional pads in a setting where I need to switch focal points quickly, it makes me want to sell the camera to buy a second XT2. The best part about the Fuji joystick is it's continually adjustable, unlike Canon where you have to keep clicking it to move it around. The Fuji joystick will keep moving around the viewfinder as long as your thumb is controlling it, I love that! 
 
 
The only feature I really wish Fuji would add is where the focal point updates when you switch the orientation of the camera.

It's a nonsense question.
The "bokeh" comes from the lens. Digi of film, it doesn't matter.

I normally don't even bring external chargers along, as I can and do charge 3 batteries at the same time in-camera with a USB cable and the provided charger for the grip. 
 
Of course, I also have one or two dozen of spare batteries available. Might come in handy for long assignments w/o access to external power, but even at the Le Mans event in July, none of the 200 VIP participants trying the X-T2 for a full day ran out of juice with their kit. That said, shooting action for an extended day can certainly require more than the 3 batteries, so bring a few spares. 
 
People should indeed write Adobe and press them to interpret the maker notes metadata for the image rating. 

It has been just few days since I left Rio and I had a day to recharge my batteries (my own one and also all of my Fuji ones) and now I'm shooting Summer Biathlon World Championships in southern Estonia. Fujifilm Estonia is again helping me and gave me one X-T2 with battery booster for the event (first camera here in Estonia) and let me keep X-Pro2 also which I had with me at the Olympics. So now I can compare them side-by-side and show you pictures from both cameras. When I have time, I will post my first remarks. After first day at least I can say that X-T2 suits my style much better. Bigger EVF, battery booster (which really boosts the camera) and faster AF are the first things to mark down, where X-T2 is kicking X-Pro2s butt
 
Official Training @IBU Summer Biathlon WCH Otepää 2016 by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-T2 + 50-140/2,8
 
Official Training @IBU Summer Biathlon WCH Otepää 2016 by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 14/2,8
 
Mixed Relay Juniors @IBU Summer Biathlon WCH Otepää 2016 by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-T2 + 14/2,8
 
Mixed Relay @IBU Summer Biathlon WCH Otepää 2016 by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 18-55/2,8-4
 
Mixed Relay @IBU Summer Biathlon WCH Otepää 2016 by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 18-55/2,8-4
 
Mixed Relay @IBU Summer Biathlon WCH Otepää 2016 by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-T2 + 50-140/2,8
 
All comments and questions are welcome!

As our Estonian decathletes were far out of the game, I decided to shoot full day only with Fuji. That meant that I had to concentrate on portraits and emotions.
 
Ashton Eaton @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 50-140/2,8
 
Ashton Eaton at the Finish @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 50-140/2,8

Full day of track and field - feeling quite tired...
 
One shot from Olympic champion also:
Tianna Bartoletta @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 14/2,8

Hi! As the games has begun, I thought it would be good idea to start a topic and maybe find other photographers at the Olympics, who use Fujifilm. Also I'll be posting pictures taken with my X-Pro2, so feel free to comment!
 
Opening Ceremony @Rio de Janeiro Olympic Games by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
Opening Ceremony @Rio de Janeiro Olympic Games by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
Irina Embrich and Yiwen Sun @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
Julia Beljajeva @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr

Some sailing action from today:
 
Jonas Hogh-Christensen @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 18/2
 
Sailing @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 50-140/2,8

So, that's one so far.  
 
One, one Fuji Photographer ahh hah ahaha ah
 

At least there is one! Well I know there is one guy from Iceland also shooting with Fuji here, so it makes us two...
 
Rowing was postponed today due to hard weather conditions.
 
Rowing Practice @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 18/2

Estonian fencing team got to the semi-finals.
 
Irina Embrich @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 90/2
 
and lost there to China.
 
Erika Kirpu @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 56/1,2

First day of track and field, will spend a lot of time here...
 
Charles Jock @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 50-140/2,8
 
Gerd Kanter @Rio de Janeiro Olympics by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr
 
X-Pro2 + 18/2
 
Also yesterday I saw one photographer from Japan who had also X-Pro2 and 35/2, so now there are atleast three of us!

...and yet, they maybe doing it even without our permission.
 
Maybe they know something that we don’t?
 
I find the concept of “ asking for” any product interesting. Marketing divisions of all manner of companies have done market research for a very long time, long before customers were ever active on internet. THis lens didn’t come out from nowhere, it would have had a developing of at least a couple of years.
 
I don’t think that they would do it it there wouldn’t be a good reason that it would have buyers.
 
Commerce is not a democracy where one votes beforehand with a referendum but we vote with our wallets. If we like it we buy it, if we don’t we don’t.
 
I am sure that they (although nobody is always getting it right) might be more qualified to know what their customer want than most of us.
 
Also, despite its popularity, FR or any other forum only ever represent a minute part of the market.

I think $293 is fair for a whole new board and that rubber stuff, if the camera was already out of warranty.
After my latest longer photography trip I've finally decided to send my camera to Fujifilm, too. I also want new rubber parts, a sensor cleaning and I've told them about the bigger lenses losing electronic contact sometimes when zooming. I'm curious what my bill will look like. Perhaps I'll get the 'mount assembly' you were promised.

I have the xp1, the xt1, and the xp2. With each new release the autofocus improved dramatically. Perhaps when you shot with the xp2 the diopter adjustment was off.

sounds like you simply had your hand too close to the lens.
 
Exactly what distance did you have your hand from the lenses?

Haven't done it with the new sensor, but the old 16MP Sensor was really good. 
And also the cameras. Focussing would be similar to the Sony. Either with magnification (and some light source) or a bit of trial and error (I have marked just the infinity spot on my lens).
 
The sensor doesn't produce a lot of dark current noise and the few hot pixels will mostly be removed by the dark frames. 
 
With the viewfinder you can set it (with a button on the body) to: LCD only, EVF only, Eye Sensor and EVF and Eye Sensor (all displays are off until the eye sensor detects something and activates the EVF.
 
Personally I have just turned down the brightness on the LCD. 
 
Lenses for those kind of shots would be:
Samyang 12mm f/2.0
Fujinon 14mm f/2.8
Zeiss 12mm f/2.8
Fujinon 16mm f/1.4
Fujinon 10-24mm f/4
 
The Samyang is often said to be one of the best lenses for this kind of stuff. It's sharp and bright. However it doesn't focus at infinity where the focus ring says (you have to try it and mark it). And there is very little coma.
The Fujinon 14mm is just as good, but 1 stop slower.
The Fujinon 16mm is acceptable sharp wide open (not as sharp in the middle as the samyang or 14mm wide open), however it suffers from quite some coma on the edges. 
The 10-24 works too, however it's an f/4.0 lens - that's not really what you probably want to go for. 
The Zeiss 12mm would work too, but I don't see the point in this, since there are the Samyang and Fuji 14mm both cheaper and as good (if not better). 
 
 
There are some reviews about Fuji gear and astro photography on the web. http://www.lonelyspeck.com has some reviews (I think both the X-T1 and Samyang 12mm have been reviewed)
 
In the end a Sony A7S with the right glass will probably give you a bit better images, but I like the Fuji because it is very capable and also very light and flexible. 

I headed over to Silverstone on Saturday afternoon to shoot the Hankook 24hr Race with my new 100-400mm on my X-T10. It was a great experience and the kit worked superbly well, despite the challenging conditions...
 
Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr
 
Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr
 
Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr
 
Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr
 
Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr
 
Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr
 

your cons list is dumb.  
 
- You can counteract "shaky images" by using proper technique and the shutter speed = 1.5 times focal length rule and never go below 1/60th, tripods, monopods, OIS.  There are a million ways to counter "shaky images"
 
- High ISO does take a hit when you increase megapixels however when you downsample 24mp to 16mp, you get cleaner and sharper images than just 16mp images alone. 
 
- There is no relation between megapixel count and autofocus speed!  NONE!
 
- SD cards are cheap, cheap cheap!  You're complaining about spending $20 for a back up SD card on a $1400 camera?? 

And it probably will be a few more months

We could just ask Fuji, since they measure all their lenses?
 
There are a few thing we could say without it too. 
1. Wide angles are in general faster (less glass needs to be moved) 
2. Newer lenses are faster (new motors and algorithms/cpus) 
3. There are a lot of different factors in play.
 
The numbers are the best case, where there is enough light and the phase detect autofocus does the work. In real life AF speed will depend upon light, settings (size of af field, AF-C or AF-S) and a lot of other things.
But generally the list should look something like this:
 
16-55mm (@16mm)
35mm WR
14mm
18mm
16-55mm (@55mm)
18-55mm (@18mm)
50-140mm (@50mm) 
90mm
27mm
55-200mm (@55mm) 
23mm
50-140mm (@140mm) 
 
---- (here we have reached 0.23sec according to cipa test standards. Fastest measured value for the 16-55mm is 0.06sec) 
 
35mm 
100-400mm (@400)
60mm
 
 
Again, this is just phase detection autofocus in the best scenario. As soon as there is more emphasis on contrast detect autofocus things will look differently (and the camera used becomes more important too) 
 
As I said, settings are important too. I noticed the 90mm being incredibly fast with a big AF square, put hunts quite a bit with the smallest in not so good light. 

Just seen this on Ebay UK. Very interesting. Ebay item number 231927700646.

Looking at the payment terms, I wouldn't buy it!

I was at a wedding last week as second shooter, my SP1 printer was quite the attraction of a lot of the ppl around.
 
In a world more and more often digital, almost nobody print pictures anymore. Even my own wedding pictures are not printed in a book. So when you hand out something physical there is something really novel about it. It feels good to have something small and durable and you can just put up on your fridge as memorabilia.

Indeed, practice is the key, as it adapting the camera settings to the subject at hand. A child running towards the camera? No problem with 8 fps. A child zigzagging left and right? Better get the live view going and dial it down to 3 fps.