deva

The Sony A7 cameras look quite good to me. For still photography, I have no interest in them. I prefer the size of the Fuji X cameras and lenses. I now have an X-Pro2 to go with my X-T1. Their image quality is sufficient that I consider any further improvement pedantic. I've taken and seen lots of images from both these cameras that are as good as can be... meaning the photo content so overwhelms whatever tiny technical flaws are there that they simply do not matter. Like an audio signal with a noise floor of -110 dB or -113 dB... the 3dB just does matter in any practical sense. I find the obsessive race to (an imaginary) perfection a bit off-putting. The technical image quality today is so very high, yet the higher it goes, the more obsessive becomes the quest. I do have some interest in the A7S for low light street video.

The EVF in the X-T1 is not exactly color accurate in the perfection sense. For example, in shadows it is a bit too green so in the shadow area purple is not right and green can be a bit too saturated. That said, on my X-T1, the overall tonality is accurate. I can judge the overall WB by the EVF and what I see in the EVF matches overall tonality to the LCD and the resulting image on my laptop screen. The X-Pro2 EVF is not dependable for judging WB because it has this overall bluish cast. BTW, the X-Pro2 and X-T1 LCD's are pretty close when both cameras are set to auto WB. I have not compared on my laptop the same image shot with both cameras (same lens) using auto WB to see if they have some variation there in how they calculate WB. So I talked to Fuji today. They confirm that all X-Pro2's have the bluish cast in the EVF so there seems to be no point to swap cameras. At this time Fuji is calling this 'normal' behavior and there is no plan to address it in firmware (assuming that is possible). They have been receiving a fair number of phone calls about it. I told them I consider this an unacceptable flaw in a pro camera and not normal. If my X-T1 can be more accurate, than so can this one. I imagine if they receive enough calls, they will do something about it. So I encourage anyone who would like to see it improved to call Fuji and say so. I still have a bit over 3 weeks to decide to keep the camera or not.

I love the 16... very fast and it is also almost a macro lens... it focuses so close!

you could get 3 Fuji primes... 16/1.4, 35/2 and 90/2 all weather sealed, all fast, all great optics and they cover your range an X-T1 (assuming about the same weight as X-T2) plus those 3 lenses weighs slightly less than your D800 plus the one lens 24-120/4 I know that does not address your wish to not switch lenses... but it is such a pleasure to shoot the X-T1 with Fuji primes!

I switched from Nikon D7000 to an X-T1 I like the X-T1 much better. Real control dials, aperture ring, compact, weather sealed and better image quality. The Fuji lenses are better and on the normal to wide angle range, smaller and lighter. The one thing I miss from the D7000, is shooting all day on one battery. I just purchased an X-Pro2 to have 2 bodies and will upgrade the X-T1 to an X-T2 whenever it comes out. I now have 7 Fuji lenses and plan to get a couple more. I love the primes... 16, 23 and 56... I'm gonna get the 90 soon. The 10-24 is excellent. These are all lenses worth investing in.

That may be... but for now, there is no X-T2 and I just purchased a high end camera and I'd like an EVF that isn't wonky

I agree, it will not show up soon... or maybe at all... but I'm gonna stick to Fuji Lenses. I have the 56 and just tried the 90 for the first time at the store and loved the feel, balance, focus speed, close focusing, and sharpness... so gonna get it soon (missed the sale). That should tide me over... hehe

I took my camera back to the store today to compare to their demo model. The demo model has the same/similar blue cast to the EVF as mine does. I remember now, I didn't actually know how to switch between OVF and EVF when I handled the demo at the store. Switching between them back and forth is the obvious way to see the discrepancy. Once I noticed it, I cannot 'un-notice' it. I didn't return the camera (yet) as I have 30 days to do so. I'm gonna call Fuji, then decide. Unless Fuji does some sort of firmware correction, I will not be keeping the X-Pro2 long term. The blue cast bothers me too much. The question for myself is, can I tolerate it until the X-T2 comes out (or return it and get another X-T1)? The joystick is fantastic, the build quality is better than my X-T1, it has 2 card slots, the Acros film simulation and faster AF with more AF points. All those things are compelling improvements so I feel motivation to tolerate it.

Me too... I miss the 1:1 macro lens since switching to Fuji

I just purchased the X-Pro2 because I wanted another body (my choice was another X-T1 or the X-Pro2) and I have no idea how long it will be before the X-T2 The joystick is great, the build (doors) is better and the feel of the buttons and layout is really good. I'm impressed with the X-Pro2 EXCEPT - The EVF has poorer color accuracy. There is an overall blue cast which does not match the LCD. In another thread another user confirmed a bluish cast too. Compared to the X-T1, what I see through the X-Pro2 EVF is not as reliable a representation of what the jpg will look like. One of the things I have been really impressed with on the X-T1 is how consistently what I see through the EVF matches what I see with my eyes. Of course there are differences particularly with certain situations, but I often marvel at the electronic magic as I glance through the X-T1 viewfinder then up with my eyes directly and how often they are impressively similar. I've come to trust it. I was prepared for the X-Pro2 EVF being smaller, but not poorer performance in this regard. If it weren't for this, I would be very happy I went for the X-Pro2.

On my X-Pro2 the EVF Brightness control was set to Auto by default. That produces some unpredictable results. Sometimes it was much darker than the LCD on image previews. Setting EVF Brightness to Manual and a value of 0 makes it more consistently close to the LCD in terms of brightness. The above however, does not affect the blue cast to the EVF which is pronounced. The LCD is fine, but the EVF is off enough that I consider it buggy or effectively broken as a representation of the color of the captured image (jpg)... plus it is just not pleasing to look at. It's rather disappointing. I'm guessing there is some amount of variation from camera to camera. If the store demo I had tried was as off as the one I purchased, I feel confident I would have noticed.

It is set at a default Auto WB... and that of course would affect the LCD too

EVF Brightness was set to Auto. Setting it to manual (0) helped with it being way too dark sometimes (particularly when previewing images), but did nothing for the bluish cast. It's hard to imagine this is normal and nobody complained about it. I'm gonna return the camera tomorrow.

Not sure how I could take a photo through the EVF The XP2 LCD is bright, colorful and looks pretty similar to the X-T1 LCD. I'm looking at them side by side right now. The X-T1 EVF always looks pretty similar to the X-T1 LCD. The XP2 EVF looks washed out, no contrast or saturation and also darker and with a distinct bluish cast compared to the XP2 LCD.

Today is the first full days I've had the X-Pro2... I'm loving the handling of the camera. However the EVF is quite bluish. It looks awful compared to my X-T1. Has anyone else seen this sort of thing?

I tried the X-Pro2 with the 16 1.4 and 18-135 Then I just tried both with my X-T1. The X-T1 is 'right'. It matches (with expected variation for film simulation etc) what my eye sees both in the EVF and the LCD. And the EVF and LCD seem the same. The X-Pro2 is too blue both with the LCD and EVF with the EVF being more off than the LCD. Both cameras are set to default auto WB and tested outside on a sunny day and with standard film simulation.

Hi Peeps, Today is my first day with my new X-Pro2. The color of the EVF is not right. It is blue compared to the OVF and when I take a photo, the appearance of the photo is different between the LCD and the EVF with the EVF being bluer. Is this a known problem? Do I have a faulty model? Any suggestions?

I'd like to see Fuji make a 70 1.4

I'd rather have a 70 1.4 from Fuji

Just purchased the 50-140 today... I'm not sure I'll keep it yet. I need to try it out on the street at night. It's a bit heavy but feels so well made. Really like the 18-135 but it is 2 stops slower on the tele end and I have too often run out of light in the evening/night with it. I tried the 90 today for the first time. Feels great on the camera and so sharp. I loved it immediately but I'm doubtful of its practicality so I went with the 50-140 because of the OIS and only 1 stop difference. The 50-140 seems like it will be better at night on the street. Also, primes on the short end require much less movement to frame. Really gotta move the feet a lot with the 90 and that is not always possible. The 16, 23 and 56 are indispensable. No way I could part with the 10-24 either. So 4 lenses is just too few for me.

I just purchased an X-Pro2. In the store was the first time I had one in hand. Because of comments about the ISO dial, that was one of the things I wanted to try before purchasing. The fact that it updates in the EVF as you turn it makes it work for me. I think it is a bit faster than my X-T1... well, for smaller changes.

I have the 56... love it... haven't decided on the 90 yet and haven't touched one. Gonna go to the shop and get the feel of it. I think I would rather have a 75 1.4 :-)

I love the 23 and 56 combo (best on 2 bodies) for low light events... I do lots of street shooting and low light events and the extra stops make a big difference. I'm quite happy with just those 2 at such events. I'm going to get the 50-140 soon, but there is no chance I would give up the 56. It is very comfortable in the hand, balances nicely on the X-T1 and is fast and sharp.

I don't have either 35... but I shoot a fair bit of night time street photography and there is no way I would want to be without a 1.4. I have the 16, 23 and 56 with the 23 being my most used of the 3 and the other 2 close behind. OIS is amazing for still subjects, but for moving situations, there is nothing like the fast lens! Whether you need the 1.4 depends on what you shoot. I'll likely end up getting the 35/f2 because I have the other fast primes and the 35/f2 is small and WR. But then I may hold out for an updated 35/f1.4 that is WR

I would prefer the 44x33 to a bigger MF sensor... a bigger sensor would make the camera too big for my interest... A 44x33 Fuji mirrorless can in effect, be their version of the full frame DSLR... same size camera and with a bigger sensor that is a wider differentiation from APS-C. If Fuji comes out with such a system, it is the lenses that I would be buying into. So that would really decide it for me. Because of the speed with which the sensors have been improving, camera bodies do not retain their value. With film, an old camera still took just as good of a photo as a new camera, so an old, well built camera body retained its value. At some point, and I think we are close to it, the sensors will be good enough that it will not matter so much whether the next one is better. There is a point of diminishing returns and I think we are almost there. I've thought of digital camera bodies as 'disposable' because within a few years the new models have been so much better. $6000+ for a soon to be obsolete camera is rather costly. A sensor generation equal to the new X-Pro2 but in 44x33 at say 70MP would be very impressive and maybe is enough that it will not feel 'disposable'. The point where many users feel that way is when it makes sense (IMO) for Fuji to come out with the MFD.