Fredkelder

Thanks!

Be also aware about the real differences in size/weight: still the same sensor size, so the gain is mostly limited to the body only (except "pancake" lenses). One of the reason why I choosed Fuji X100T+X70 but my needs are different.

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Hi! I used many systems. Among them some Nikon camera and a D7000/16-85/35G. It's now an "old" camera so switching from D7000 to XT-1 and you will undoubtedly get an overall "better" camera. But DSLR has also improved since 2010. I will not get into controversy (AF bla bla..IQ blabla...) so I will give just my personal opinion, the following points are not being debated in my mind and for my uses. Choose a Fuji EVF camera if: -you don't need the best AF-C. -you don't need the fastest "ready to use" camera (time to "power-on"). -you don't need the best battery life. -you can adapt to EVF. -you need among the best JPEG files. -Fuji lenses cover all of your needs. -you don't need fantastic and cheap lenses. -you don't need an unic global customer service. All of the other facts will be near or similar and the photographer's skills will be more important than specific performance of any system.

Don't forget your passport.

Sorry for mistake, I mixed files X100T/X70. Previous post edited.

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Everytime I try another camera, I always go back to the X100T. It's not the fastest camera, it's not the most user friendly, it's not... but something looks happening between this camera and the photographer. Any peaceful comment about that feeling (or these pictures) welcome. 1 2 3

Just for information: all PP with Lightroom with sharpness preset: 25/50/50.

J'ai bien cherché un bouchon d'essence sur mon X100T, je n'ai rien trouvé. Ceci pour dire que je suis totalement de votre avis.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for your help. Is that ok now? By the way, I waste less and less time with technical considerations: if you like my pictures, the main reason could be that I am more and more a "point-and-shoot" photographer who only looks for fun on the field. So thank Fuji (and all others) to make increasingly powerful cameras: only the subject matters.

Let's be accurate: Focus Numerique says "noise level are similar until ISO6400". That's all. By the way, these technical discussions are always funny to read. Without any interest, but funny to read. Moreover, it often looks like a discussion between experts in economics, all convinced of their intellectual superiority, and all convinced that they are right and others are wrong. Meanwhile, the world turns and thousands of fantastic photos were shared on the web without anyone knowing with what systems they were made.

The 3D effect is a consequence of: -the depth of field and therefore its variables -different planes in the depth direction -the characters specific to the optical design of the lens. That said, I do not see the interest to seek 3d in a photo, since it is the absence of this third dimension that makes it artistic. And there are 3d or plenoptic systems for those who need.

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Thanks for coming. Actually, I'm still testing this nice camera. For example, 16/17/18 show me a very good DR and a good latitude to recover highest lights with Lightroom. By cons, video rendering (and video knob!) is ugly. That said, nothing new: same as X100T I also use and I shoot video very rarely.

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I use LR for 5 or 6 years now. The last version of LR has improved significantly the RAW conversion but there is still a lack of details in green foliages sometimes. From the examples I've seen on the web, Iridient seems the best for X-trans RAWs. That said, Iridient is not available for Windows and as an amateur photographer not keen on hardware, LR looks more intuitive and user friendly.

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Hi! -No particular issue. -About IQ, it's better using lens without UV filter. -I always add a filter on X100(.) because single lens camera.

Hello! my opinions: -If you shoot RAW, colors are not an issue: all presets are easy to recreate with Lightroom for example. No need to spend money with VSCO or others, which I tried for fun. -If you shoot JPEG, well...you get Olympus presets, or Fuji presets. You can change it a little. It's a matter of personal feeling. -Switching from m4/3 to APS-c: *pro: better DR and low light rendering. When I shot in m4/3 (GX/EM10/EPL5), I did not shot over 1000/1200 ISO. *cons: AF and overall reactivity is less. *pro/cons: crop factor changes: depends on uses. If you often shoot very wide angles, APS-c will be easier.

Such ugly rendering is easy to do in a few minutes of PP. VSCO and others have a long list of mannered presets for lazy photographers. It recreates all these spoiled pictures from the film era. We always miss a part of our childhood.

It will not discuss a technical fact, many photographers have already demonstrated it on the web, so just as a reminder: Higher number of pixels= better sharpness is a brand marketing argument. It has marginal impacts on the final sharpness. A photographer needs more Mpx for 2 reasons only: -larger prints (and very larger) -croppings. All the rest is myth.

Yep. The best 28 f2,8 I've ever used. I will complete soon my equipment with a X100T and TCLX100 and I will have everything I need. And so light...!