Florian

In addition to above suggestions: in auto-iso, set minimum shutter speed appropriate to your focal length. In low-light conditions, set aperture wide open (f1.4-f2).

First thing to try would be a factory reset. If the camera locks up before you can select it in its menus, it is still possible clear its settings-memory (cmos?) by leaving it without battery for a while. Actually don't know for how long you would need to leave it, as I accidentally discovered this option by storing my camera for a year (wanted to have it repaired for a similar lock-up problem, which turned out to not be necessary after all ^_^). You will know the memory was cleared when you have to re-select language and date+time when starting it again.

Any word on how bad the ibis noise is on this new camera? Don't trust the reviews on this, since reviewers all missed the atrocious x-h1's noise.

Don't have the x100vi, but do have the x-h1and have had the x100s. Ibis noise on the x-h1 sounds more like a laptop fan, aperture blade noise on the x100s is a very soft clicking. For me, the x100s' aperture blade clicking was so soft that it didn't bother me. The x-h1's ibis noise is loud enough that it requires an external mike when taking video. Was majorly annoyed that reviewers seem to have missed such a major design flaw. On the x-h1 the system is also active (to keep the sensor in its position) when disabled, proving that the often espoused claim that including ibis has no downsides for those who don't want it "because it can be turned off" is a load of bollocks.

The e-series hasn't had an anti-aliasing filter from the first x-e1; after all, the whole selling point of the x-trans sensors was the lack of a need for such. Personally, I prefer the look of the x-trans i images over the x-trans ii, so that would be the x-e1 or the x-pro1. You'd have to accept (and/or enjoy) the slower shooting experience, though.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the E4 and T3 have identical sensors and processors?

The x100s gets badmouthed a bit for having a more "clinical" image quality compared to other generations. Check the images that float around on the web to see whether you agree. I have had one since release and still find it excellent, with the built-in nd filter being a real game changer for daylight shots. The biggest weakness is low-light - I basically bought a second hand x-pro1 with the 23mmf1.4 lens for that, despite the ludicrous increase in size and weight compared to the x100 series.

I would recommend going with the camera that feels best when handling (and, as part of that consideration, carrying when not in use) as opposed to joining the hordes with specs fetishism. Just check some review's pictures from the past decade to see how (ir)relevant the image quality differences have become.

This is standard behaviour for many zoom lenses: when you zoom in, the minimum possible aperture increases. This is a physical limitation of the lens' construction, that's why it says F2.8-4.0 and not F2.8 in the product name.

Define "struggling": do you mean that there are problems with image quality of the pictures taken at low light or that the handling/responsiveness of the camera at those conditions is bad? In the first case she would be better off with an older body such as the x-e2s or the x-h1 with a (more expensive) larger aperture lens, in the latter case the new body with a cheaper f2 lens would be the better option.

The trick is to underexpose the shot ~_^ Seriously, if you want the camera to take pictures as you want them, not as the camera thinks they should be taken, then you'd better learn about its settings and how they affect photo shooting basics. For exposure that would be the dials to set aperture size, iso, and shutter speed.

The "Digital Split Image" focus assist (as implemented on fuji's cameras) requires a display, so in pure OVF it is not possible to use it. However, on the x-pro2 you can also add a little display in the lower right corner of the viewfinder: set it to "ERF mode" : http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-pro2/first_step/monitor/index.html#viewfinder_selector You should then be able to have the split image on the little EVF, with the rest of the viewfinder still in optical.

You answered your own question there. As suggested in the other post, Fuji's 18-55 kit lens has an excellent reputation.

The x100 series does have the option to screw on conversion lenses, the tcl-x100 and wcl-x100 (tcl is tele-conversion, wcl wide conversion). However, these are not zoom and the tcl will likely not enlarge sufficiently for wildlife. In short: if you want optical zoom, get another camera.

Best bet seems to be getting a broken one (with a different defect) to scavenge.

Did I miss a camera release? ^_^

Is it? From what I understand of the a7s sensor, the actual per pixel area size on the sensor (not the sensor size) being bigger is a major factor in its better low light performance. That's the reason the sensor has about 12 megapixel compared to more than double of sony's other full frame cameras.

My Great Wish would actually for the next x-pro to have increased sensor pixel size, similar to sony's a7S. Downside is lower resolution images, but the better low light performance, plus possibly improved battery life, would be worth it imo.

If you want too shoot in somewhat lower light conditions, a f1.4 lens may make just the difference. There have been some great deals on the 23mmf1.4 lately, due to the f2.0's release.

Not quite clear what the problem is: is the auto focus not working or can't you get manual focus working? If I remember correctly for the 23mmf1.4 lens, you must slide the focus ring to switch mode: towards the camera will set it to manual, away from the camera to set it to autofocus. Maybe the focus ring not being in the appropriate position is the cause of your problem.

All fuji x100 (s/t/f) are made in Japan.

Recommend going with single lens. Best compromise between enjoying the holiday and recording it Personally, I'd go for the x-e3 with 23mm.

Seeing this, I am wondering: couldn't one take an external battery, say a 26800mAh one, and connect it through usb to power the camera during shooting? Of course, this is not a proper solution if you regularly need long battery life, but maybe it could be a good stopgap measure - it should, roughly, last at least as long as about 10 of the internal batteries.

Smafones appear to get slower mostly because software updates target more modern hardware and/or one installs too many extra applications. Both of these problems you'll not have in cameras.

Without having the camera in hand, its hard to judge how well it works, but imo the fujifilm engineers did something which was much needed: prune away some buttons. Especially with the e3 being smaller and the joystick added, all those buttons are starting to clutter up the back of the camera. Viewed in that light, the touch screen is not a trendy feature, but a replacement to still be able to use the extra functionality those buttons enabled (essentially, moving the buttons into the screen). Just because it is `trendy', it doesn't mean that this solution is bad.