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Everything posted by milandro
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there is a €200 cashback in the NL right now and these cashback offers are, generally, temporary. http://www.kamera-express.nl/product/12193714/fujifilm-x-t1-body-flitser/
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There are some around aside from adaptations of non specific products. http://www.hotfrog.com.au/business/nsw/collaroy-plateau/joad-sportz-supplies/bicycle-camera-bag-by-joad-sportz-supplies-210870 http://www.dx.com/p/outdoor-waterproof-bike-bicycle-front-camera-carrying-bag-grey-red-136862#.VyrtN2OcHq4 This is an adaptation of a non specific bag http://www.bikepacking.com/gear/crumpler-kashgar-camera-bag-turned-handlebar-bag/ But as you correctly observed any bag connected to the frame will expose the camera to a lot of vibration, depending on the type of terrain that you will be biking on. So if tarmac is your thing you won’t be exposing the cameras and lenses to too much stress un less you fall of you collide with some hard object. However I think that the best thing for you is to carry a backpack if you have a lot of gear or alternatively stick to carry one body and one lens worn with a harness on your chest, which might include, or not, a backpack with some more gear and other necessities http://www.amazon.com/Keyhole-Hands-Camera-Harness-Black/dp/B007R61N60
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Whenever I was in the US, photographing people in the street never cause any adverse reaction, people just react differently to a camera. And, by the way things have changed in the last 30 or so years. Ed van Elsken was in the late ’60, ’70 and ’80 one of the great “ street photographers” of the time
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if the option Manual + ES is enabled.
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Are you sure you are shooting at a short enough shutter speed? Also using OIS is not always recommended if the shutter speed is quick enough or you are using a tripos might even be detrimental to the result. Do consider the fact that high ISO settings are not compromising the quality of your shot as much your movements or the ones of your subject would do. In other words, when in doubt put your ISO at 800 or 1600 and shoot that way, you will have a better result than having a go with a 1/30 sec. at 200 ISO.
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it’s your camera and your money. Good luck and have fun anyway. You could have spent a lot less buying a black XE-2 ( they sell more blacks but it comes in metal color too, which in my experience is always thought to be an old analog camera) with a 27mm ( waiting for the 23 f 2 the same focal length that you got on your camera, at leas t I am assuming that you have a 23mm which would work out as an equivalent 35mm). Personally, I don’t understand the idea that you have to be technologically “ invisible” by pretending that your camera is a point and shoot one instead of a more professional one. I think that a thieve would simply not possess the knowledge to tell things apart and when in doubt, they steal it anyway. We have had also another thread where a member wanted to have a camera bag as stealthy as possible, but the very act of bringing a camera to the eye brings immediately the alarm bells to both thieves and people who don’t like being photographed. I am not a street photographer but if and when I shoot streets I have to deal with people not wanting to go on pictures. I live in the Netherlands where people are extremely camera conscious and are often downright hostile to photographers even if you are not exactly targeting anyone in particular. I normally assume a look as touristy as possible because that, if anything, is at least telling them that I am not following them and targeting them as a particular person. Years ago I remember I was shooting pics an an assignment on foreiners living in the Netherlands, and I took some crowd pictures while I was at the most touristic spot of Amsterdam ( Dam Square) and I was shooting some general shots with a rather unassuming Nikon 35mm so I was shooting a tram from the street and two (!) people inside the whole tram lifted a huge shopping bag in front of their face. Few years down the line the first day after buying my first Fuji X camera a metal color bodied X-E1 with a rather unassuming 35mm f1.4 I go to the beach to shoot some test pictures. As I point the camera towards a cafe on a beach, far away ( so there was no way they could tell which camera I had or even whether I was pointing the camera at them) the first male on the left of the picture which I am enclosing started waving ( go away!) with his arm in front of his face. This is a shot which I took just a second before he put his coffee down and started the defense mechanism. By the way, with your 23mm you would have been even closer and noticeable.
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then I am baffled. I have no idea what is going on but whatever it is is not normal.
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don’t get too excited tough, this lens won’t change the world. It is only going to be a lens which is not in the way of the X pro2 OVF and will be cheaper to fit more pockets.
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which portion of the picture is this?
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Well, the X-30 was released less than 3 years ago. I had a X10 and it was the perfect small camera for me to keep by my desk and take various pictures , especially when it came to very close up images. But I can see how these would be nor fish nor fowl for many because when I sold the camera ( which came from a student who sold it to me as new because he didn’t use it ) it went to a student. He sent his mother, who was very fussy about things that she couldn’t understand, and in the end commented that she didn’t understand why her son had opted to buy an “ expensive" camera while he had a phone. The problem is that unless your budget is tight and the small size of the camera is paramount once one is into serious photography most will probably one will go for a camera with a larger sensor and perhaps interchangeable lenses and one which receives regular firmware updates too. Frankly speaking most people might very well take the pictures of kids and girlfriends which they take with expensive cameras with a camera like the X-30 and get pretty much the same results but that isn’t something that goes well with their ego. The majority of people in the world, even when they own a camera, never print their pictures any lager than a format than would be very well printable from a smaller sensor and yet some will feel diminished in their photo-virility if the size of their... sensor, wouldn’t be as big as possible. We’ve seen that the Fuji sales come mostly from the more expensive segment within the camera division ( leaving their best seller Instax on the side a phenomenon which really is also very much more localized in Asia and among the youth than anywhere else in the world). Even the cheap XA and XM aren’t selling much or at all ( at least they are not selling in the NL, so I am told by the shops some of which don’t even carry them considering them camera for a different target than theirs) and I am sure that they aren’t serving the purpose of being the introductory camera to enter the Fuji X system which originally was the idea behind their introduction. Their new attempt to try something new is the X-70 which at the moment is selling, rather well, but isn’t a mass phenomenon and certainly not the cult camera which the series X100 was at the beginning of its history. We shall see when the novelty wears off a bit. I wonder what they are planning because they must be aware that their customer’s base is rapidly changing. I have asked Patrick here to make a reasoned survey but from the picture and comments we see from the membership here, over half of the users are over 45 years old with a very solid base in their 60ties. in 20 years time there will be a new and different public and steps have to be taken to accommodate them.
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I concur this is exactly what the electronic shutter might do.
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might work but I am sure that it is cheaper, smaller and lighter to put a 15 to 17mm classic lens on a kipon tilt shit adapter than using a large lens with a focal reducer
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funny how when it comes to lenses or cameras ( I need 24MP, 16MP is so passé ! Yesterdays sensor! ) most people here want the sharpest possible for the budget available and when it comes to software if one wants the sharpest possible and dares talking about it then one, all of a sudden, is ear marked a pixel peeper.
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you need to enable the function “ shoot without a lens" Might sound counterintuitive but it means shooting without an autofocus lens with a chip. Third party lenses ( aside from Zeiss) wouldn’t work too. Go to the last option at the bottom of menu 3. Good luck! My pleasure, anyway it is all in the manual recently re-released.
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Indeed she did. But I was only elaborating on it not arguing.
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as per paypal rules, all transactions have to be shipped with a system which guarantees the delivery by means od a signed confirmation. You can most certainly notice Angelo Pelle that you didn’t receive anything and at the same time alert paypal which will lead you through the procedure. They will pull the money out and give it back to you. If and when you receive the goods, you will then sign a paper upon receiving it, so they will know you have got the strap and you can at that point, pay them back again. ( if they didn’t send it like that it is their fault because this is clearly in breach of the contractual obligation with paypal ). You won’t put them in trouble and you will be acting completely within your rights.
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Have they provided you with no tracking? Was it paid by paypal or credit card? I ship a lot internationally and shipping a parcel, even small,might easily take 5 weeks or more with provincial location in the US. It generally takes a week to arrive in the US, but then it might be held up in customs for a very long time and then it goes to several local depots. Besides it is very rare but it occasionally happens that some custom officer in the US decide to check it manually and to levy a tax ( especially if the value is relatively high for some particular imports and if you have given a commercial address this hardly ever happens to provate citizens) it might take really a long time. Remember that sometimes parcels have been all opened because of particular moments in which safety played a major role. If you paid by paypal or credit card you have cause to recourse and can claim the money back and pay only when the item shows up at your door. Good luck.
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Tilt shit lenses are certainly a very good tool for all kinds of things but using one that is not meant for APS-C puts you immediately at a disadvantage. A 24mm on a full format is a very good choice because of its wideangle rendering, definitely great help in architecture photography ( if that’s your goal) but doing the same thing on an aps-c constrains you into normal focal length territory, which is not nearly as useful a tool especially in city architectures. Unfortunately, due to the format size, there aren’t too many wideangle tilt shift lenses which could be used on an APS-C format offering both the tilt shift and wideagle performance and whatever there is out there is very expensive. Another possibility would be to buy a tilt shift adapter such as the Kipon and use an appropriate classic full frame wideangle ( Tokina or Vivitar 17mm or Pentax 15mm) on it which offer the necessary image circle.
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There is no doubt that the 50-140mm is intrinsically a better lens that any of the other two, but also a radically different one ! Oranges are very nice to squeeze and apples have a nice crunch both quench the thirst and are a very good source of sugars and fibre. They are not interchangeable tough. Anyway, If one makes occasional to moderate use of the longer focal lengths, one has to wonder whether investing so heavily in such an expensive bulky and heavy lens, which only reaches to 140mm anyway, is what one needs. For my part I am more than happy with the 50-230 and have used the money to buy many other things. Of course some here comment to any thrifty comment that they do have money to spare and so they don’t mind spending a lot of it even for duplicate of triplicate of things, which is good for them. However we all think with our wallet in out mind and mine is certainly not the same as someone else’s. For my money and the use I make of it, the 50-230 cannot be beaten.
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I am quite sure that, along with the movie version, the first version was also offered for SONY full frame cameras at one time and I am not talking of the 3,5 version which is a completely different lens but the first 2,8. For those who did that it became necessary to remove the lens hood in a complex way. As I understand, modification of the rear elements was especially targeted to improve performance in the corners to SONY FF users and leaves the APS-C users almost unaffected. “......The Samyang 8mm/2.8 UMC II fisheye lens is available for several camera mounts (Canon M, Fujifilm X, Samsung NX and Sony E). It is designed as a full frame fisheye which covers 180° from corner to corner on these aforementioned mounts with their respective sensor sizes. But since the introduction of the Sony cameras with E-mount and full frame sensor there is an interesting new option for panoramic photographers. In all the featured examples of this post I just took a picture of a white piece of paper bended around the lens which I converted to a black and white image afterwards.If you mount the lens in its original state on a Sony ILCE-7 (or ILCE-7r) then you get an image which looks something like this...." http://www.panotwins.de/technical/shaving-the-lens-hood-of-the-samyang-bower-rokinon-walimex-8mm-fisheye-lens-for-usage-on-the-sony-e-mount-with-full-frame-sensors/ Anyway many others have commented on the almost invisible (and easily explained as variation from copy to copy) http://admiringlight.com/blog/thoughts-samyang-8mm-fisheye-version-ii/ http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3728760#forum-post-54420317
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right
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Ahem!...50-230 It very much depends on how frequently you would use the lens. I don’t use these focal lengths range to justify the fact that a lens like the 55-200 which is only marginally more light efficient is so much more expensive than the poorer relation. Due to the excellent performance at Hig ISO values by Fujifilm cameras, the supposed aperture limitations are, really, a bit of a red herring. Besides this cheap lens performs at very high level. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/940-is-xc-50-230mm-identical-to-xf-55-200mm/ http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/292-the-humble-though-honorable-xc-50-230mm-f-45-67/ http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/797-xc-50-230-any-good-id-say-it-is/
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Hey Hey Hey...isn't Fuji supposed to be made in Japan??
milandro replied to Dr.Nipun's topic in Fuji X-T1 / Fuji X-T10
milage varies. I have no complaints, as I said, QC doesn’t stop at the borders of Japan, it goes wherever a company takes it. I think that Fuji has taken it to China too.
