milandro

Amsterdam Skyline 10-24mm

years ago, when young and living in Naples-Italy, I wore my camera ( black Contax RTS) with a neck strap but on and around my left shoulder. Then I often had a 3/4 length jacket on which covered it and hid it from the sight of people who might have want to steal it, and so, when needed I drew the camera quickly out when I needed it. I stopped doing that because some people ( both police AND unsavory types ) often mistook the black object for a pistol. I am sure that I risked a lot less with a camera showing from a neck strap than the risk of being shot because they thought I was carrying a concealed weapon!

Neckstraps have a nerdy look, I’ll give you that, but keep the camera where is should be for maximum action and protection. Because of the “ nerdy” look that they give you, you can pretend a certain “ aloof “ , absent minded behavior which will make you look totally inoffensive while shooting people in the streets. Especially with your retro looking camera! Shoulder straps are very hip ( literally ) but really force you to carry the camera in a way that exposes camera and lenses to banging into things. Besides the constant rubbing of the camera on parts that are in general not particularly suited to the contact with expensive objects ( I am thinking of the pocket rivets of jeans for example, a good hipster will wear those, not comfy chinois ). I see people posting on this forum pictures of the wear of their cameras that I haven’t put on a camera in years and years of use! True I don’t walk too much with the camera hanging around my neck either. Often the camera is in my ample dark brown soft leather bag, in the central compartment, ready to be taken out when it needs to be used. You can practice your quick-draw either way.

No, this is a simpler object than the tilt-shift by the same company and it only tilts. It seems to be well made as most of these adapters by Kipon are. I think that I will choose one for M42 lenses that I can buy secondhand

well, As you may know, I have suggested precisely that technique somewhere else http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/805-using-the-camera-miniature-effect-for-portraits/ however, there are limitations. 1) you can only do this in one film setting, the one chosen by the advanced mode, you can’t even shoot RAW’s with this method. 1) you can only put a sharp pictures between two bands of unsharp image an that only works top and bottom of the sharp part, you cant have the focused area in a diagonal or in a really tilted plane. Nice though that is, it is not the same!

I have been wondering whether to buy one of these simple adapters to get some pictures, mostly portraits, where I can place the sharpness on only a limited portion of the image. I would like to see some work of the forum members and I particularly would want to see different lenses in the range 50mm to 135mm used on a Fujifilm body. I’d also appreciate comments on the ease of working with this particular implement.

Well, believe it or not you might have been the cause of the damage with some “ cleaning” and I think that if the specks would have been there when you bought it you would have noticed it. I don’t agree with using filters (unless you shoot in really dirty conditions) and also, cleaning should be as little as possible because it is a potentially damaging action. Anyway, chances are that all it is is a chip of the coating and not an actual chip of the glass. Either way, it can be repaired, the question is whether it would be worth it or not. Get in touch with your local Fuji lab and ask for a quote.

Under normal circumstances, they are too small to affect the image as such ( think, how big is their area compared to the total front lens surface?) BUT, if you set your lens at the widest setting and the aperture to the highest value (smallest aperture) , THEN you might see something on your front lens. Did you try to wet clean them?

there are already a couple of threads open about this ( use the search function before opening a thread, replicating threads only thins out information) no need to open yet another one http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/848-fuji-announces-the-x-t1-ir-for-infrared-photography/?hl=infrared

actually you can see how they differ: The first one has just the screw mount and then there is nothing past that. The second one has an outer inside ring designed to push in the prong of the aperture which allows you, with some lenses which don’t have a manual-auto setting ( Pentax do generally speaking have them), to operate the aperture which otherwise would stay always open. There is a Third type with the inner prong pushig ring , made of an extra, removable inner (generally black) ring. Another word of advise. These adapters all have a aluminum surface towards the sensor , if you use it, paint it black, it can only limit the possibility that there are internal reflections.

not even close...

You have obviously not tried the 60mm? It’s great in doing all those things!

you can actually buy several types of adapters, some have, for example, a double ring which allows you to remove one part of the ring ( the part that is now in the way) and leaving the other. I have also found that these kind of adapters work for example with lenses like a screw mount Pentax which had a mechanism to actually show the aperture chosen in the camera, this happens by means of a square piece of metal on the lens which interferes with many cheaper and simpler adapters.

of course you realize that it would be a nightmare to realize since there is an hyperfocal distance varying at each aperture setting and different for each focal length... but yes, this is one for the “ dream on” forum section

I absolutely agree Marcelo, the ease with which even here people publish (and obviously show off) pics of their kids and loved ones baffles me. If I would try to shoot pictures of those kids in the street after the second shot I am sure the police would be called! A person whom I knew, sadly he passed away a couple of years ago, was taking pictures of his and other kids playing outside a school in the Netherlands and the other parets called the Police on him because he was shooting pictures of his own kids! One of the problems of shooting in the street is the defensiveness ( right of wrong) of the people against being photographed ( this happens mostly in the richer parts of the world).

was it Bokeh or Bouquet ? 60mm macro, gives me plenty of “ confusion”!

I practically have the same lenses that you have with the exception that I also have a Samyang 8mm ( great lens even if you use it sparingly!) and that the “ long” zoom is the cheap 50-230mm ( which, if you ask me has the be one of the best lenses for that kind of money since you can find it new or slightly used for €150 to €200). Whatever you do is going to cost you some money but the only lens that I personally would ditch, in favor of the cheap 50-230mm, is the 55-200. Frankly speaking with the Fuji rendition of high ISO being what it is and the EVF compensating the image which it produces, so that even a lens with the maximum opening of 4.5 to 6.3 allows you to have a pleasant and not “ noisy” rendition, unless you need the minimal gain of opening speed and AF speed of the 55-200 you may sell the expensive lens, get yourself the cheap one and still have some money to spend, for example on the fisheye OR get yourself a cheap walkabout 27mm which will add to the stealth of your camera that maybe you don’t have if shooting in the streets with the 10-24mm. Other than that, I wouldn’t bother with other lenses with very large aperture openings at all.

there is another thread about this already http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/848-fuji-announces-the-x-t1-ir-for-infrared-photography/?do=findComment&comment=9750

Even if this isn’t ( and it isn’t) the Equivalent of Superman's X-Ray vision, the creative potential that the camera can unleash is ( just a guess at the moment) enormous. I suspect that this camera will be changing a thing or two in popular way of dealing with “ special” effects

Cheers I had missed The camera captures light from UV, visible and infrared portions of the spectrum, from approximately 380-1000nm. Interesting!

there is another thread on this

If I understand this correctly this is a camera that can only shoot IR? If that is the case, it would have been so much better if the would have made possible for one camera to do both ( I know that you have to remove a filter on the sensor ).

the video functions are as good as this sensor can deliver (lower case)

well, since the firmware update 4.0, the one that was announced long before it became available and the one which made people salivate for days and days before it finally arrived turned out to be a little less spectacular than we were given the impression that it was going to be, this other one will probably be just some minor correction here and there. I am not going to be holding my breath about it and this time I will even wait before installing it, just in case it add more problems than it solves.

I already wrote this here in another “ dream” thread. If, If........Hurray!