Adam Woodhouse

Shhhhh.  If they knew that, what would they have to complain about?  Same goes for the "No 4k Video Club"..nobody's forcing them to shoot in 4k, but they'll complain about it nonetheless.

Peter Gabriel, I use my X-Pro2 all day shooting stills on film sets, and the images from my 35mm f2 are tack sharp wide open, close focus distant focus and everything in between. Maybe trying a camera, with an unknown history of messing with the controls, at a camera store is not the best test.  I shoot 1200 to 1500 images a day on set, and when I chuck out stuff it's because the actors blinked, were doing strange things with their faces or they moved and are blurry; but rarely focus. The quality off the 24 meg chip is vastly superior to my 16meg X100T, which I haven't used at all on set since getting the X-Pro2. Lovely camera but simply not as good. But so darned cute I can't let go!
 
All my other Fuji lenses are equally excellent, especially the 18-55 OIS and the 50-140 OIS, and my 14mm f2. These are workhorses; I use them in stupidly low light conditions (typically ISO 1600  to ISO 3200, 1/60th wide open) and the focus success is far greater than I ever got with my Nikons. I have no hesitation about recommending the system, and look forward to adding the XT-2 when it arrives, which it surely will.

Remember that you can set the camera up to take a photo even if lens has not achieved focus. I think there is a focus priority setting for taking pics, and an opposite setting (shutter priority of something like that).
 
I have my menu focus setting so that the camera will not take a picture unless the camera has focus lock.  This helps to prevent most (but not all) out of focus pic's (due to my errors).   Maybe the camera was set to allow pic's to be taken when focus had not yet been achieved?

For interior / RE I use an X-T1 and the 10-24.
Lighting with yongnuo flashes (I have 4 of them but you don't need as many for most RE shoots) and an RF-605 yongnuo trigger to trigger them. You can also use the the YN560-TX as a trigger which allows you to remotely control the power of your flashes.
 
Both triggers can be wired to the small jack on the side of your x-t1 for remote  triggering of your camera (I use another yongnuo trigger for that).
 
The ability to recover the shadow details from the RAF files still amaze me.
 
You can correct the verticals in LR or Photoshop but I would recommend DXO Viewpoint which makes it so easy.
 
And if you need advices, look for Scott Hargis ebook and the PFRE web site.
 
Oh, and iso 200 for clean files, f8 for a good depth of field and a sturdy tripod.
 
You can see my work at grand-angle-interieur.fr
 
Cheers

Look, I'm not going to bash you for your opinion, but it is confusing to me while somebody would seek out a forum post dedicated to shooting wedding photography with Fuji gear only to tell people that Fuji cameras are incapable of shooting weddings. Particularly when it's been proven all over the world that this has and is being done.

Oh ... some places have laws against how wide a lens (how low a focal range) the listing agent is allowed to use in their advertising.  I believe full frame 24mm is OK pretty much everywhere.  But going wider than full frame 24mm ... you should research it first to make sure you or the listing agent won't get into trouble.  Where I'm located going wider than full frame 24mm isn't an issue, but that may be changing in time as that was a conversation I had with one my agents quite recently.  I personally try to stay around full frame 20mm ... but sometimes the rooms are so small, going all the way to full frame 15mm (which we do on the 10-24) does such a great job.

I think the scratched up camera looks great.  It is now a conversation piece.  It is nothing but cosmetic, so who cares if it has a an old weather look of if you custom painted it purple!?

Hi everbody,
i solved the issue by myself (by chance)!!
I didn't have to return the nissin because it was just a matter of one long press on the LED next to the ON/OFF Switch.
I haven't found an explaination of this behaviour in the manual but if you press the LED for approx. 2sec. the LED next to the Mode Dial starts blinking.
After that the Nissin fires only trigger flashes in M Mode.
After i hit the button for 2sec. again the Mode Dial LED was shining permanently - and the Flash works as expected in M Mode!
 
Thanks Adam for you support!!
 
regards
Thomas

Don't come to the forums looking for this advice.  Forums are notorious for people flocking to them to bitch about the product due to some issue (which is understandable).  But for 1000 that work OK, the couple that don't will be on the forum complaining, which gives the appearance that most are having the same issue.  Follow another forum for another digital product and you'll see people complaining all over.  It is something about forums.  People turn to them when they have a problem, so they are ripe with problems.
 
Buy your product from a reputable dealer and review their support and product warranty so that should you be among the minority, you know what to do.
 
.... just my 2 cents on approx 20 years of following forums on products that interest me (cars, model aircraft, computer hardware, TV, camera, etc).  In general, I have found this forum to be very good.  Nice people that want to help.

Don't come to the forums looking for this advice.  Forums are notorious for people flocking to them to bitch about the product due to some issue (which is understandable).  But for 1000 that work OK, the couple that don't will be on the forum complaining, which gives the appearance that most are having the same issue.  Follow another forum for another digital product and you'll see people complaining all over.  It is something about forums.  People turn to them when they have a problem, so they are ripe with problems.
 
Buy your product from a reputable dealer and review their support and product warranty so that should you be among the minority, you know what to do.
 
.... just my 2 cents on approx 20 years of following forums on products that interest me (cars, model aircraft, computer hardware, TV, camera, etc).  In general, I have found this forum to be very good.  Nice people that want to help.

Okay guys, I noticed that I stopped getting the error once I stopped using "EVF + Eye Sensor" and switched to just the EVF. Hope that helps some of you.

Lloyd always manages to find the end of the world with almost anything he writes about. This effect was mentioned on another forum and the example images there, like the one Lloyd posted, are frankly nothing I would ever expect to use to begin with. This problem (which I'm pretty certain is internal reflections) appears to only be seen in circumstances with horrible veiling flare that would itself render the images useless IMHO. 
 
Lloyd hates the X-TRANS sensors anyway and is using this as another reason to pile on. Using diglloyd as proof that a camera/lens is bad strikes me as just about as crazy as using Ken Rockwell as proof that something is wonderful.

Lots of good info here Joy.  Has it helped at all?
 
Another reference that may help is -> 

Snowy Owl captured in central Ontario, Canada in the middle of the winter.
 
 

One thing that no one seems to ever mention when working with RAF files in Lightroom is you must set the correct Process type either when you import (as a preset) or after you import.  By default, Lightroom will set the RAF process to be Adobe's implementation of file rendering.  You must change it to a Fuji "process" or you won't be happy.  The default Adobe looks horrible with RAF files and people will complain that Lightroom sucks for RAF files when they aren't using it right.  When you change the Process to a Fuji Processs, the image will look great and you can tweak.
 
I created a preset and when I import a wedding I apply the preset during the import.  It's pretty slick doing it that way.  My preset (which is simply my own preferences) is a little bump to the whites, a little bump to the shadows, a change to the sharpen value to approx 50 from its default (which I think is around 20) ... and a change to the RAW Process from Adobe to Fuji Provia.
 
If you don't know where you change the RAW Process, it is on the LIBRARY tab, bottom right ... below Keyword and Metadata ... under CAMERA CALIBRATION.,  Change the Process there.

Hi About that AF-L button on the right (of the right)... I always disable the autofocus function on the shutter button (on all my cameras) and instead of that I use the "AF-L" button on the back with my thumb. On the Xpro2 its position seems odd, can we program the AF-L on another button ? Maybe instead AE-L button ? Or everywhere else  
Thanks a lot.

Improve the black out time in the EVF between shots Fuji .   Take the shot and get back to showing me what's happening as fast as a DSLR.    This is a MUST fix for X-T2.

Snowy Owl captured in central Ontario, Canada in the middle of the winter.
 
 

I would like to have a second X-T1 as I shoot a lot of events and 2 bodies is much faster than switching lenses. I love my X-T1 though I do wish that the AF was a bit faster and more reliable when shooting in lower light. I suppose I'll just go ahead and get a second body now even if I swap one out for an X-T2 mid 2016
 
An ideal X-T2 for me - I'd like 2 card slots, stay at 16MP, better low light AF, better high ISO performance and longer battery life. 
 
BTW - I recently shot an outdoor event in the rain and my X-T1 handled it without incident. The camera was quite wet but all was well... 

Having tested ACR, I am very happy with the files coming out of it. Looking at an image at 100% on screen and scrutinising slight difference are not going to make a difference to an actual print. Last week I choose a jpeg (that looked a little soft to me) straight from the camera at 6400 ISO and enlarged it to 18 x 12. I then copied it and ran Nik Sharpener over one. Both came back, the Nik sharpened imaged looked a bit sharper in some parts when I looked very close up to the print.
 
From 30cm away (not the best distance to see an 18 x 12 print they are identical and you cannot see any difference.
 
I bet if you lined up an image from each converter side by side any difference you might see, will be so slight, that having a preference for one or the other is just subjective.
 
In reflection there isn't "the best raw converter" just the one you like and know best.
 
SilkyPix v Adobe ACR

I think if a person moves to mirrorless line to reduce bulk/size/weight ... having another brand as a backup means the lenses to support the backup body ... so kind of defeats the point in my mind.

Snowy Owl captured in central Ontario, Canada in the middle of the winter.
 
 

I have heard this lens makes a constant humming sound, as if the stabalization motor is running constantly.  I learned this from a photographer that took it to shoot a wedding (regularly shoots weddings) and he noticed it, so went back to the store and showed them and the store said that it was a normal characterisitc of the lens.  He found it very distracting and returned it. 
 
Has anyone else here noticed a constant humming coming from the lens when the camea is turned on?

Snowy Owl captured in central Ontario, Canada in the middle of the winter.
 
 

Agree with Dis.  I have shot weddings for years with Nikon but now shoot 50% X-T1 and 50% Nikon D610.  Haven't fully migrated due to video requirements and $$ to swap all of my fast glass.  I expect next year I'll be 100% Fuji.
 
LARGE learning curve coming from SLR to Fuji X-T1.  Very different cameras.  I shot with my X-T1 a fair bit before taking it to my first wedding.  It's focusing was quite good, not as strong as my previous D3s ... but good enough.  I knew from others that had switched to it for weddings that the common theme others were saying was "it forces you to slow down".  That was exactly true and I knew that going into my first wedding with it on my hip.  For very rushed photojournalistic style of shooting (a small part of my wedding day), it can be a bit slow to change settings (when shooting manual which I mostly do), but other than that ... it has been a pretty good experience once the learning curve is behind you.