Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Helo Forum,

I recently moved to a location that has a lighthouse near buy.

I plan to go there and try my luck photographing it at night.

The lighthouse has a concentrated beam of light every few seconds My goal is to capture the light beam, but, not as a sunstar.

Regarding the lense I plan to use, probably my 10-24mm.

I’m looking for any settings help that will help my accomplish getting the shot.

Any thoughts of dynamic range, ISO, etc., settings would be appreciated.

My other two lenses that I use are the 55-200, and the 18-55.  I thought the 10-24 would provide me with a being wide range capture.

My camera is the X-T2.

Again, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Tom

Link to post
Share on other sites

Since you are close to the lighthouse, you may be able to experiment a little. Try treating it the same as getting an image of the full moon; say f11, pick your favorite ISO and set the shutter speed to 1/ ISO. Then take a longer exposure to get the background and blend the images. Use that as a baseline to speed up the shutter speed until you get what you want.

If you set the aperture to f16 or more with a longer exposure, you could end up getting the star rays, one ray per aperture blade, so be careful about that. Also, show us how they turn out!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...