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X-T10 poor batt life (with 18-55 lens attached!).

slackjawgaze

By slackjawgaze
in Fuji X-T1 / Fuji X-T10

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slackjawgaze Rookie

slackjawgaze

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Hi

I have had the X-T10 for about 2 weeks now...

 

Very poor batt life... I have the x100 and X-E1 both of these are fine (400 shots ish).

But the X-T10 maybe 150 ish!!! ------ especially with the 18-55 lens attached!

 

---- you can hear a permanent very low whooshing sound when this lens attached ---

 

If I attach the 35mm f1.4 no sound and batt life about 300 ish - same with the 12mm Samyang manual lens.

If I attach the 18-55 on my X-E1 no low whooshing sound.

 

I have tried another camera in shop - all make this whooshing sound with 18-55 attached - just weird!!!

 

Thanks

 

Carl

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aceflibble Collaborator

aceflibble

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You've got the lens' image stabilisation turned on. That's what the noise is and that's what's draining the battery down. The more powerful X-T10 feeds the IS a little better and more consistently than the old X-E1 does, which is why you notice it less with the X-E1. The X-T10 is a little more 'active'. The quicker drive also tends to make a little more noise when autofocusing, same as it does with the X-T1. That's just to be expected when you make the lens shift so much glass faster. 

Of course, you may also have high performance mode turned on, the X-E1 inherently has slightly better battery life than the newer Fujis and using autofocus with any zoom lens shortens battery life compared to the primes. (Though only very slightly.)
 

The X-T10 actually has slightly better battery life than the last few Fujis—assuming you use a fresh and fully-charged battery—when set up and used in the same fashion. It's not much, but it should be giving you an extra ~50 shots or so over the other bodies. 

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darknj Experienced

darknj

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Another thing, don't leave the LCD or EVF turned on constantly, both screens are quite the battery hog.

 

I usually just turn the back LCD off and leave the EVF on eye sensor mode, thus only that part lights up when my eye get near it. With the 18-135 OIS enabled and enhancement mode on, I get around 350 shots per battery before reaching the red icon, I guess I could take maybe 10-20 more before it shuts down completely.

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slackjawgaze Rookie

slackjawgaze

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Hi

Have tried all settings on camera...IS on/off. Power management on/off. s/c/m modes. single/zone/wide. etc etc

When 18-55 attached get very low whoosh continuos noise (note not the tracking type noise when trying to focus).

Permanently on and same continuos noise - only get with the 18-55

But totally silent if on my X-E1

Will go to a store and try another 18-55 lens to see if makes same sound!

cheers for your responses

Carl

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slackjawgaze Rookie

slackjawgaze

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Hi darknj

 

I have the OIS set to option 2 - taking photo only mode.

 

Looking at this forum and x series forum...

It looks like when the firmware on this lens is updated to 3.10 (or higher) - the gyros in the lens

are on permanently (to speed up IS when it is called for). They permanently spin whether OIS

is on or off. Thus this is what is making the noise. You don't get it on the non-zoom lens ie

18/23/27/35/60 etc

 

Thanks everyone

Carl

 

 

(1) IS Mode - If set to mode 1, the IS works continuously.  IF I set to mode 2, IS only works when the shutter button is half pressed... set to 2.

(2) Pre-AF Mode - IF set to on, the lens auto-focuses continuously, even if AF-S mode is selected by the switch on the front of the camera... set to off.

(3) AF-C Mode - In this mode, the lens will continuously try to attain/follow focus when the shutter button is half pressed...... this is off (S selected). 

 

On my camera, when

   IS Mode is set to '2',

   Pre-AF Mode is 'off', and

   AF-S mode is selected

there is still a very slight, continuous whirring noise coming from the camera, but I have to put my ear next to the camera to hear it.

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darknj Experienced

darknj

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Honestly, this is why I just wish image stablisation didn't exist at all, anywhere, on anything.

 

In overall I would tend to agree with you, but I know that under no condition I can take a shot at 1/10 of a sec at 135mm and not see any camera shake. I am not that stable.

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gordonrussell76 Collaborator

gordonrussell76

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Firstly OIS motor will still  be on even with OIS option 2 only for picture is on, it just does not actively do anything until you shoot. Its still drawing power just not as much as Option 1.

 

Just a thought here

 

Turn the OIS on the 18-55mm off using switch on the lens unless you need it

 

In my experience of owning the lens it should only be used when you are in a low light situation and using a low shutter speed, in addition its mainly useful at the long end.

 

I found that my images were consistenly sharper at SS of 1/125 and up with it turned off. I think at that point it was introducing slight blur rather than helping offset it. In fact I rarely turned it on above 1/60 but I have steady hands and good breathing from shooting rimfire in my youth. Seriously you will in good light get better images with it off and you will save battery.

 

Gordon

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