Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I just ordered an X-H1 and was wondering what everyone is using for baseplate or L-Plate.  

 

For my X-Pro2, I'm using Fuji's MHG-XPRO2 hand grip.

For my X-E2, I'm using Fuji's MHG-XE hand grip.

For my X-100F, I have the Really Right Stuff baseplate with removable L bracket.

 

Really Right Stuff apparently will offer a baseplate / L-plate for the X-H1, but it hasn't been released yet.

 

http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/X-H1-Plates

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Kirk has one out, for roughly 140 bucks or so. As an L- Plate is just a mechanical piece of metal, which with todays technology can be made much more easily than in the past, I will not pay such a premium price. I wait for a cheap China made l- bracket for 25 bucks. Have been doing that for years now, for many cameras. Wiht one exception (where I had to buy a second one), only good experiences and loads of money saved.

However, at this point, no cheap l- bracket available for the X-H1.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Kirk has one out, for roughly 140 bucks or so. As an L- Plate is just a mechanical piece of metal, which with todays technology can be made much more easily than in the past, I will not pay such a premium price. I wait for a cheap China made l- bracket for 25 bucks. Have been doing that for years now, for many cameras. Wiht one exception (where I had to buy a second one), only good experiences and loads of money saved.

However, at this point, no cheap l- bracket available for the X-H1.

 

Back in April, I received what I believe was the first L Plate Kirk Enterprises delivered for the X-H1. It is an object of beauty, with some great features such has a small Allen Key (supplied)  holder under the long side of the plate which also has a place to attach a Peak Design Anchor Link. I also appreciate the perfect clearance there is in between the short side of the plate and the camera, to allow easy opening of the connector door.  Pricey but well worth it !

Edited by MJarry
Link to post
Share on other sites

Pierre is that a Fuji eyepiece surround?

Hi Mike,

 

 yes this is a Fuji model. It is compatible with X-T1 / X-T2 / X-H1 and GFX. I tried it with X-T1 and X-T2 but there are 2 problems :

1/ screen can't move easily, The eyecup is on the way of the screen

2/ It's not easy to use a Lensmate thumbrest with this eyecup

 

It works great ont the X-H1 because the EVF is not as close to the screen as on X-T1/T2. I think this eyecup is the better choice for X-H1, It is softer than the orginal eyecup and it is very adapted for use with glasses.

 

180525093144722631.jpg 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I ordered the RRS plate over the Kirk and I'll tell you why, the RRS's profile mirrors the entire base of the camera essentially extending the grip area following all the contours. One other thing I like is that they included a second threaded accessory hole opposite the grip. What this does is allow a balanced connection point for a swivel clip such as the Black Rapid has. I've owned both the Peak Design straps with their large clips and button dongles, I do like that the camera hangs in the same orientation with that system as there are two connection points. I do prefer the Black Rapid action and the RRS connection placement surprisingly keeps my rig hanging in the same orientation every time due to the offset receptacle (right below the focus mode dial) 

Link to post
Share on other sites

My EC-GFX eyecup arrived today, and I agree with Pierre a better bet!

 

My take on Pierre's tip! Well done Pierre!

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by Mike G
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...

SmallRig makes affordable versions for the X-H1 with and without the grip. You won't find these on Amazon or B&H at this time but can order them direct from smallrig.com. Both include built-in tools for fastening the L-plate to the grip or body. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
    • How does one make sure that Fuji's image correction is turned on to correct barrel and pin-cushion distortion on a GFX 100 or GFX100S when using the GF20-35? Is it only applied to the jpegs and not to the raw files? (I was surprised to discover the barrel distortion on the GF 35-70mm lens.) I normally shoot in raw with jpeg back-up and use the raw files, which I convert either in Affinity Photo 2 when editing with that program or in Raw File Converter Ex 3.0 by Silkypix if I wish to process the image in Photoshop CS6. (Adobe DNG is also a possibility.) Thank you for the help. Trevor
×
×
  • Create New...