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alba63

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  1. As reported in several online forums, the eye AF with the 56/1,2 is worse than before. It was the first lens I tested because it is always a bit on the slow side, and I found it to be unreliable and with many AF mistakes. They have to fix it ASAP.
  2. Ha! A very old thread, but it instantly resonates with me: I still have the X-E1 at home. It was my first Fuji X camera (in late 2012) and I was so delighted with it's output. Kept it for more than 2 years as my primary camera for everything. Whenever I came home with photos, they were beautiful: sharp, vibrant, film- like. I then went for the X-T1: Still excellent skin tones, but more modern color look, but so much better EVF, AF etc. Kept it for even longer than the X-E1, accompanied after a year by the Sony a7rII. Sony sensor is technically a piece of wonder, 42MP tack sharp with IBIS, deep DR, low noise etc. But the colors are one greenish mess in comparison. Sold it after a while. In early 2018 I bought the X-H1: IBIS; superb shutter, 24MP, and quite good color. Until one day I looked through my 2012-14 archives, and man, I almost had forgotten how vibrant, filmish colors look like. What worth is a huge EVF if - in the end - the photos look less - well - photogenic?
  3. If you have LR Classic CC, and installed the latest version, the profile section has changed: Moved from the bottom of all edit menus to the top. You have to click the little grid symbol next to the dropdown menu for profiles, there you have a wide selection, including Adobes simulation of the film modes, but with a larger selection like BW versions of the color films etc. The new profile section is the best change LR has seen in many years, IMO.
  4. Kirk has one out, for roughly 140 bucks or so. As an L- Plate is just a mechanical piece of metal, which with todays technology can be made much more easily than in the past, I will not pay such a premium price. I wait for a cheap China made l- bracket for 25 bucks. Have been doing that for years now, for many cameras. Wiht one exception (where I had to buy a second one), only good experiences and loads of money saved. However, at this point, no cheap l- bracket available for the X-H1.
  5. Depends on what aperture you mostly use in the theatre. When shooting (normally lit) stage performances, I mostly use fixed focal lenses with most used apertures wider open than 2,8. In low light f2,8 is really not that fast. F2 is better, f1,4 (on a crop camera) is even better. I would use the 35/1,4, the 56/1,2 (or 50/f2) and maybe the 90 f2. The 16-55 is sharper and gives somehow more reliable results than the 18-55, but it is a very heavy lens, and still not that fast really... Of course at the long end, at F4, the 18-55mm is really slow in low light. You will hardly get ISO under 3200...
  6. That is interesting: What metering mode do you recommend? Multi or average? Is your compensation always on +/- 0? I have been adjusting comp wheel to minus values for the last 10+ years, accirding to the contrast in the scene: the more contrast, the lower I used to adjust the comp. Mostly between -1/3 to -1 2/3... I'd be pleased to find a more reliable way that requires less constant exposure compensation.
  7. I am not sure what the look of larger formats is mainly made of, I guess a combination of - sensor/ film size - focal lenght (thus more distant objects thrown out of focus) - aperture - design of the lens (a more "relaxed" or more tight/ corrected design The Fujifilm 56/1,2 and 56/1,2 APD are certainly nice portrait lenses, however there can be (too) sharp borders in the blurred background In FF, it is generally easier to get bokeh with more modest lenses. I used to have a Mamiya ZD SLR (36x48mm sensor), with an 80mm f2,8 I got gorgeous photos, but I sold it long ago due to general cumbersome operation of the camera. The closest I got to a really "classic look" in portraits was with the Zeiss 135mm 1,8ZA on my a7rII.... At f1,8 and f2 if gave me this smooth unsharpness with yet some character and structure in it that is different from that perfect and a bit boring bokeh of lets say Sigma Art lenses (85/1,4 an 135/ 1,8). Unfortunately the Zeiss 135mm 1,8 weighs roughly 1,4kg with the adapter and looks like a deadly weapon on the a7rII. Also the AF is quite quirky and unreliable of that camera.... Best is probably to shoot with what you have and not hunt the ultimately shallow DOF. The Fuji 35/1,4 for example is a wonderful imagemaker!
  8. I have had Fuji X since 2012, for 2-3y it was my main system. End of 2015 I bought an additional A7r II. It is a much better camera. The sensor is just another league. No APS-c can beat a good FF sensor. The A7rII is not only good, but excellent. I can use Sony A7rII with virtually all FF lenses ever built, EF Canon in AF mode included. I still use the Fuji X-T1 with lenses when I want to have a light kit and I get nice results. But if I want ultimate quality, I prefer FF. Menus? Are you serious? Once I have set up my camera, I hardly need a menu at all, and I put all the important functions in the quick menu. Other than that, it is about the passion to shoot. Select the system you feel best with and make your images.
  9. One of the most impressive landscape series I have seen in a long time. Superb colours also, your older Tibet series on flickr, like the one from 2013, look less good in terms of colour and tonality. What camera did you use then? I travelled to Nepal and northern India a while ago, and shot with my Fuji S5pro. The high mountains of the Himalaya together with the simplicity and spirituality of the Tibetans (in the case of Nepal: living in exile) makes for a unique experience that left a deep impression on me. Did you go there out of photographic curiosity mainly, or by an interest in tibetan culture and religion? If this is not a too personal question...
  10. This theory about the X-E3 depending on sales of the X-2S is very strange to say the least. The X-E2S is nothing but a very modest warm-up of the X-E2, offering basically the same image quality as the old XE1. If I'd be in the market for a range finder camera like this, I'd go for a cheap second hand X-E2 or even E1 and wait for a real update with the X-Trans 3. The X-trans II is too old now to be sold in a new camera in 2016. I consider the X-E2S camera that was not needed at all.
  11. Lightroom already renders the X- files quite well, all the discussions on forums are blown way out proportion. Sime (Mac) cinverzers plus PhotoNinja render the Fuji Files with better sharpness, but (in the case of PhotoNinja) questionable colors. LR is - along with C1 - the best overall packet IMO. Staring at sharpness and finest details 100% is a questionable approach to photography anyway.
  12. So, it will all depend on what the new camera (whether this one on the photo is right or fake) will bring. a) Just a 24MP sensor with a few more AF points = *not enough* 24MP sensor with Sony a6000 class AF or faster + true ISO100 (!!!) + better EVF (like in the new Leica, with 4MP!!!) --> yes, I buy Sensor should not only have more MP, but also better overal noise and dynamic range (the two are linked to each other, right...). The X-Trans II is quite "solid", but no longer state of the art. It is a 4 year old design. + less "cheaty" ISO settings. With a Sony a7 series camera one can shoot at ISO 100-200 much longer... The EVF in the X-T1 is quite good, but also 2 years old now, they should build in the next generation EVF now, not the last generation EVF... In a new model (that will keep for at least 2-3 years) I wand technological progress, not stagnation. Bernie
  13. For someone who is new to Fuji X this lens can make sense, for someone who is an existing user not so much. The 35/1,4 is light, can be bought cheap used and is maybe the most universal x lens with gorgeous quality and rendering. The shown samples are OK, but in the near field any lens will expose soft bokeh. F1,4 is 1 stop faster than f2, on crop that makes quite a difference.
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