Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Low light AF is also better, locking quickly on at F2.8 ISO 6400 1/20 with the XF16-55 F2.8WR

 

Still don't think it's any faster to lock on then before FW4 but it is much better in lower light. Perhaps someone who has two X-T1's can test this to satisfy those who need to know. 

Tracking is very fast and mostly accurate[ish] - might have been me not use to it yet - but I am comparing it to a 5D3 so probably a bit unfair. I'll test it out on some lycra louts tomorrow morning. I've found no bugs yet. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just finished doing some quick tests with various lenses (10-24, 14, 23, 27, 35, Zeiss 50, 55-200 and 56) and I'm  :) . However, I did come across a lighting situation where the camera struggled to focus with the 56mm. Below is an image of a djembe drum (situated 4' from where I snapped the shot) that gave the 56mm fits. But on the next image of the paint cans (about 14' away) the AF snapped into focus almost instantaneously. Seems like surface brightness is effecting phase detection.
 

Drum

Paint

 

Cheers!

Rolly

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are the ranges for the various shutter modes in the T setting:

 

ES - 1" to 1/32000

MS - 30" to 1/4000

ES+MS - 30" to 1/32000

 

AE bracketing still +/- 1 EV  :angry: . Someone at Fuji must hate HDR...

 

Cheers!

Rolly

 

Thanks Rolly!!!!!!, really great news for me. I like to shoot manual, and the top dial is not as handy as use the front/thumb command dial to change settings without taking the eyes off the viewfinder, even more critical when using the battery grip.

 

and yeah, unbelievable the bracketing castration on Fuji... similar to not using face detection AF when using the back button focus on first firmwares.

Link to post
Share on other sites

AE bracketing still +/- 1 EV  :angry: . Someone at Fuji must hate HDR...

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Surely they fixed this and just forgot to list it with the other updates.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to all who shared with me. Fw installed! Tested 14mm in very dim lighting and focus was lightening fast! Used the 3x3 zone focus. Can't wait to try the 23, 56 and 18-135 tomorrow morning! This doesn't seem like a beta to me. Even the framing lines are thinner as stated. Looks legit. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just one more thing, I used to use single point AF exclusively, but I must say this new zone focusing is much faster and very accurate. Better than some of the dslrs that I've used. Most of the time I avoid it because it usually locks on random things that I don't want. This seems a lot smarter. I think this is a huge win for Fuji. I wonder if it's faster than the new sony a7rii. I would certainly want to see that test comparison. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...