Jump to content

Is there a XT-2 exposure issue?

tlbibb

By tlbibb
in Fuji X-T2 / Fuji X-T20

 Share

Recommended Posts

tlbibb Apprentice

tlbibb

Posted
Posted

I noticed today while shooting a portrait that if I switch the orientation of my camera from portrait to landscape the metering changes. The light falling on the subject has not changed and I'm focusing on the exact same spot but it will change by 1/3 to 2/3 or more. Is this normal?

Link to post
Share on other sites
bigdaddy185 Rookie

bigdaddy185

Posted
Posted (edited)

I would say yes this is normal. When in vertical and in multi meter mode you are picking up different areas of the scene as opposed to horizontal. More grass, less sky or portraits more clothes, and less back ground. Your histogram probably changes. The camera is trying to properly expose all areas of your photo so it's dependent on what fills the frame. If you spot meter in one orientation and then spot meter the same spot in the other orientation the you should have same exposure values.

Edited by bigdaddy185
Link to post
Share on other sites
Antonius Apprentice

Antonius

Posted
Posted

I never shoot in auto anything when I can. Auto-mode just leads to inconsistency in your lighting. The EVF has made this soooo easy. I also start of with a light meter just to make [emoji817] sure the camera is not lying. Once the lighting stays the same u r set to go with so much more amazing shots

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites
Adam Woodhouse Proficient

Adam Woodhouse

Posted
Posted

I would say yes this is normal. When in vertical and in multi meter mode you are picking up different areas of the scene as opposed to horizontal. More grass, less sky or portraits more clothes, and less back ground. Your histogram probably changes. The camera is trying to properly expose all areas of your photo so it's dependent on what fills the frame. If you spot meter in one orientation and then spot meter the same spot in the other orientation the you should have same exposure values.

 

The point about the histogram is a good one.  If the histogram changes when going from horizontal to vertical orientation, your AE will most likely change.  

 

I have experienced the same thing, but I know that when going from horizontal to vertical, the image in the view finder is not 100% the same, so naturally AE changes (sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse) ... just depends on what is in the metering area.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • thelostkiwi
      Looking for Full Frame lenses to adapt to GFX

      By thelostkiwi · Posted

      I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Thank you. I will research it.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...