Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Wrist straps can be quite comfortable, at least my peak design one is.

 

I don't see the benefit of it being "anti-theft" though. For a bag that could be quite useful, but if they really want to steal the camera when you're carrying it, they'll just threaten or beat you anyway...

 

Pacsafe makes some nice stuff, but I think there are better options for a wrist strap.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It would certainly be nice to hear about some of these "better" wrist straps. 

I have never used one and would like to get a comfortable strap.  I am not

in the habit of dropping my camera/lens, but the grip is so small on the XT-1

I thought this would be a possible safeguard.    :)

 

 

Wrist straps can be quite comfortable, at least my peak design one is.

Pacsafe makes some nice stuff, but I think there are better options for a wrist strap.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Joby wrist strap on my X-E1. It is very comfortable and unobtrusive, except if the camera hangs by it from my wrist. You'll notice there is a small rubberized ring on it at one point that is meant to stop it from pulling fully tight around your wrist but for me if hits full tightness before it reaches that stop. A minor niggle though.

 

What I do miss with using a wrist instead of a neck strap is the ability to use the neck strap as a third hand when changing lenses. Trying to get one lens out of my bag and onto the camera as the other comes off and goes into the bag is quite a juggling act without the freedom to use both hands while the camera hangs from your neck.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used a Gordy strap in the past and a DSPTCH one. I finally settled on the Peak Design one, since their system with the fasteners is the most complete out there for people who use many different straps and bodies. The Peak Design one is also the lightest of the bunch and as secure or more so than others I've seen and used.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Joby wrist strap on my X-E1. It is very comfortable and unobtrusive, except if the camera hangs by it from my wrist. You'll notice there is a small rubberized ring on it at one point that is meant to stop it from pulling fully tight around your wrist but for me if hits full tightness before it reaches that stop. A minor niggle though.

 

What I do miss with using a wrist instead of a neck strap is the ability to use the neck strap as a third hand when changing lenses. Trying to get one lens out of my bag and onto the camera as the other comes off and goes into the bag is quite a juggling act without the freedom to use both hands while the camera hangs from your neck.

 

Thanks for the Link, strandloper, along with the information.

 

Good point about using a neck strap and being the 3rd hand.     :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used a Gordy strap in the past and a DSPTCH one. I finally settled on the Peak Design one, since their system with the fasteners is the most complete out there for people who use many different straps and bodies. The Peak Design one is also the lightest of the bunch and as secure or more so than others I've seen and used.

 

Appreciate the Gordy strap link, Tom...

along with the explanation of the straps you have used and why you are using the one you now use.  

Will need to check into these...   :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Appreciate the Gordy strap link, Tom...

along with the explanation of the straps you have used and why you are using the one you now use.

Will need to check into these... :)

Peak Design has a fairly limited offer, but it's all good quality. For smaller cameras, I think the best combo so far is the slide lite and the wrist strap. The fasteners I keep on all my camera bodies. There are normally 4 per strap, so that should be plenty. The normal strap is a bit too wide and looks like a seat belt. The smaller one looks a bit more subtle.

 

I forgot what the DSPTCH stuff was called. Their wrist strap was very good, but it wasn't as easy and fast to swap to a full strap as the Peak Design ones.

 

Gordy was the best looking option. But I needed something more utilitarian...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • Anyone out there have any experience/feedback on the Laowa 55 mm tilt shift? I’d be using it on the GFX 50s ii. 
    • Hi, I'm researching a gimbal to get someone as a present & they use a Fuji XS-10. I did a quick search of previous threads on gimbals but all of them seem to either get no replies or spammed by a link to an Amazon list. I'd appreciate any comments from folks who've actually used specific gimbals with the XS-10. I'm aware that some, such as certain models from Zhiyun, DJI & FeiyuTech either don't say that they are fully compatible with the XS-10 but other sites say they do work ok but some functions don't. It's quite difficult to work out which functions work & which don't. Thanks.
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • This was snapped during a lunch.  Total shooting time—a few seconds. We so often read that a proper "portrait" should be snapped with a longer than normal lens, a low ISO to get lots of detail, and have a soft light held up above the head, and slightly to the side. The key, in my opinion, is always carry a camera.  Have your camera available to capture candid, authentic photographs.  Available light, no posing.   This portrait used 2000 ISO, the lens wide open at f4, and 1/100 sec. to stop any movement.  I didn't even take time to compose—I just snapped.  I leave the "Face Detection" on unless I'm photographing a landscape or subject other than a person. The GFX100RF has the equivalent of a 28mm lens.  The large sensor renders fine detail even at fairly high ISO ratings.  And the drawing of the lens is just perfect in my opinion.  It was set to B & W, with slightly reduced sharpness and clarity (set in-camera).  Ideal for "portraits."  Now, for some subjects I will likely increase the sharpness and clarity to the normal setting.  The camera is new, and I'm still experimenting with it.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...