Jump to content

markwelsh

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

I've just bought the Fuji XF 100-400mm lens to go on my Fuji X-T1. Yesterday I tried it out for the first time, and straight away I have a problem, the image that I see in the EVF is great but when I take a photo and view it, the photo is very dark even though I'm shooting in daylight. I have already updated the firmware for the lens and my X-T1 has the latest firmware as well. The exposure dial is set to '0' so it's not that. Has anyone got a suggestion as to what could be causing this? I have the ISO set to 'A', shutter set to 1000. The lens is set to auto aperture, I've also tried manual aperture but got the same result.

 

I'm fairly new to Fuji so it's probably some simple fix that I'm missing.

 

Kind regards

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you got the Preview Exposure and White Balance setting on or off? On gives you a "what you see is what you get" image preview as you're looking through the viewfinder, and Off gives you an optimal brightness for viewing, regardless of your exposure settings.

 

Is the picture consistently dark? Try shooting with all manual exposure, then change settings and see if the brightness of the photo changes.

 

My guess is you've got some setting changed in the Image Quality settings. That controls your JPG settings, but even if you're shooting RAW the camera will display a JPG with whatever settings you have it defaulted to. So basically you could have the camera set to burn photos down (-1/3EV, -1EV, etc). That's in one of the first menu pages. If you have that and shoot a JPG, it'll be darker. If you have that and shoot RAW, the RAW file won't be affected, but the JPG displayed on the LCD will look darker.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Where is it dark ? On your computer's screen ? The camera's LCD ?

 

Also, daylight with full bright sun ? Overcast cloud ? Very heavy cloud ? 

 

Don't forget that the XF 100-400 has F4.5 at the widest, that's a rough 2 stops lower than most Fuji lenses and about a stop from most zooms and you lose even more light if you zoom fully to 400 mm.

If you auto ISO is capped at a lower value, like 800, it's quite normal that your picture will be dark if you had the speed set at 1/1000 of a sec.

 

Please give us the details about the picture you took so we can get a better idea of what happened.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think Vidalgo has a good point. My first pictures with my 100-400 where birds. So mostly I had a lot of bright sky as background which fooled the exposure automatic and I had to use two or three stops positive exposure compensation. The same may be nessecary when doing manual exposure setting but using the meter of the camera.

Of course this was not necessary when the background was darker like the leaves of trees and bushes behind a deer.

 

Edit: Sentence about manual exposure added.

Edited by Jürgen Heger
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Is there a way to keep your menu selection on the last option you used? For example.  When I select MENU the cursor defaults to MY Menu.  I scroll up to IQ settings, make a change, and return to shooting. When I press the MENU button again the cursor is back to MY Menu.  I really want it to stay on the IQ setting I was last using (or any other Menu setting). It's a PITA to keep scrolling up and down, back to the previous setting.  (Note.  My Canon Menu retains the position of the last option I was using). Thanks in advance for any help.
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • Im not partal to any brad, just opted to try these based on apparent price / performance.  I'm always looking for best bang per buck, hence Fuji I guess - haha Reliabilty does not concern me, as I always shoot to two cards for pro work (and burst shooting is not a part of that). Made sense for me to get the cheapest / fastest CF cards for hobby shooting.     I just got a Sabrent Rocket V60 512GB cheep (as the back-up card).   As long as neither of these freeze the camera I hope its a cheep solution for my needs. (AB AV Pro SE 512Gb and Sabrent Rocket V60 512GB).  Half a gig of redunat storge for $200USD is something I can live with. (Especially considering I can bust the hell out of the Anglebird). Cheers, Tomek
    • Would using an external charger be of benefit to the batteries life? I appreace it can be faster, but I doin't mind pluging in the camera over USB to charge. Does charging via the camera do as good a job as lets say the fuji's own external charger? Does the camera stop charging once the battry is full and not over charge? I couldn't find these deatails in these forums or in the manual. Thank you!   Image below shot on X-T2 in a sunny studio.  

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
×
×
  • Create New...