Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

First time poster, long time reader.

 

I use the EVF on my x-e1 90% of the time and all of a sudden, without a warning, the evf just dies. 

I can toggle through the (evf - eye sensor - lcd) modes, but when I get to the EVF part of it, I just get a blank EVF.

Does anyone know if this can be fixed without it being sent in for repairs?  A setting I may have overlooked?  Perhaps a magical re-boot sequence?  A secret hand shake?

What ever.  I'll try anything.  ***ALMOST anything for you wise guys out there!***

Thanks for any info.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This happened to my X-E2 but I presumed it was due to it tumbling down the steps of a church. Be interested to hear what others think also.

I've read somewhere of an X-T1 having this same issue with the EVF.  When sent into Fujifilm for warranty repairs they said it was a loose ribbon cable.

Perhaps with their aging cameras being out a few years, we are now seeing these issues starting to pop up.  I really hope it's not a design flaw or a weakness in their manufacturing process.  Because I'm really liking this brand.. 

Should I be babying my own X-T1?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Surgery want well, although nothing out of place unfortunately so email off the Fuji UK to get a cost on repairing the camera to see whether it is cost effective to repair. If not I'll use it with in LCD mode.

Link to post
Share on other sites

AS far as the tear down goes, I didn't set any pics so simply remove the rubber from the grip - it's just stuck on so peal it away carefully - then the tolex from the front left and right & then the tolex from the back. After that remove the screws from the base plate and both sides of the camera. Remember to map the screws out as you go tis there are a few different sizes. The back cover removes and their are two ribbon cables. One for the buttons and the other for the screen. The screen can be removed from the back cover. After that things are straight forward to strip the insides, just give your self the long afternoon to do it. 

Edited by kim
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Here is the solution to using the Eterna 55 file simulation LUTs in Davinci Resolve.   In general, do not use the FLog2C to film simulation LUTs as they are not supported by Davinci Resolve for two reasons: 1) Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut Color Space and 2) Davinci Resolve does not support FLog2C gamma.  Instead, use Flog2 which is supported by Davinci Resolve.  Here is an example.  Let's say that you want to use Classic Chrome simulation.  Do the following: Complete your color grade and use a CST to get to Rec 709. Add a node.  Use a CST to convert from Rec 709 to FLog2.  Output Color space is Rec 2020 and Outout Gamut is FLog2. Add a node.  Apply the FLog2 to Classic Chrome LUT Create a combination node from node in steps 2 and 3. Apply a Key to the combination node and adjust the Key Output Gain to get the amount of the combination node that you want applied. So that you do not have to do this over and over again, generate a LUT for the combination node.  Remember to turn off all other nodes before generating the LUT. Hope this helps others. Don  
    • Thanks for the insights. I think it's really hard to make a decision without having the two side by side! 
    • I don’t have the 23 f2 but I have read several times that it is considered a little soft at close distance, compared to the 23 f1.4 lenses. These will also focus at shorter distance from the subject, esp. the new one. So that might make a difference. The new 23 f1.4 LM WR  has better resolution, esp. in regard to the 40Mpix sensors, which you don’t have on the X-T2. What practical difference that makes for the value of the pictures one makes is disputable and subjective.  f1.4 will gather more light but with a smaller DOF, which may be desirable in some situations but not so in others, depends. If you like to shoot close ups, you will probably use higher f numbers to get a bigger DOF. Same for landscapes. If you are a bokeh fan, yes the f1.4 lens are better.  The older 23 f1.4 lens that you are considering is a very good and respected lens. The f1.4 vs f2 aperture per se is perhaps not so important. The 23 f2 is very small, light and practical and a great lens for travel and landscapes. So, go figure. I am afraid I just sent you further down the road to insanity !
    • First post here but long time fuji shorter. I use the XT2 with the 23mm f2 / 35mm 1.4 / 16-80mm f4 I'm considering the 23mm f1.4 r (Non-WR) About me: - I shoot black and white only. - I like macro details to wide open landscapes and everything in-between. - I shoot mostly for art, intrigue and creativity of the image. My question - is the 23mm f1.4 going to offer me any meaningful difference over the f2 for the above scenarios Thanks and sorry for bringing it up again...
    • I discovered this unmarked government installation today.  

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...