H2S for wildlife

[New Shooter]

Hi.  
full disclaimer. I don’t yet own a H2S but it’s something I am seriously looking at. To be honest I’m fishing for lived experience from H2S shooters. I am increasingly shooting wildlife and my aging Pentax K3 can’t keep up. It’s a shame it’s built like a tank and just as heavy. 
 

so I’m looking at switching systems. I’ve seen reviews of the H2S this is what I like the FPS is phenomenal. The quality of the view finder and live view screen compared against other brands (Sony) The video appears top rate. What I’m not sure about the reliability of the autofocus for fast moving wildlife (birds). I’ve seen reviews that have commented on it not acquiring or losing the subject against busy backgrounds and it focusing on the background. Is this a real world experience? Has a firmware update fixed this? 
 

looking at pairing with the 150-600 Fuji lens
 

any other thoughts on the H2S. 
 

many thanks in anticipation. 

[Greybeard]

My opinion (as an amateur) is that the subject detection makes the AF much better than earlier generations of Fujifilm cameras for acquiring and tracking wildlife - but it’s not magic and you still have to put some effort in - especially in those difficult situations like busy backgrounds or erratic creatures. I’m happy with my purchase - it appears well built and isn’t excessively heavy - I walk long distances with camera and a converted Canon 200/2.8. The overall speed and AF detection means I get shots I wouldn’t have in the past.

[Don Barar]

Here’s my two cents on FujiFilm autofocus using the XF 100-400 for video:

- 60 and 120 FPS.  Bird detection is available.  It works well if the bird is in an uncomplicated background.  Uncomplicated background is that the bird is superimposed on water or sky.  The more complicated the background the less likely it is to work.  On a more complicated background I will use autofocus without animal detect along with back button focus  If there is lots of stuff in the way, then it is best to use manual focus.

- 240 FPS.  No subject detection is available.  You can still use autofocus will work in in uncomplicated background.  But the moment there is stuff in the way, then you will need to manually focus.

Here’s an example.  I was attempting to video a mourning dove in tree.  I had clear view of the bird--nothing in front of it.  Bird detect did not work.  However, autofocus without bird detect worked fine.  After a while, you will know what situations will work and what will not.

I wish I could tell you another system was better.  But I have not tried other systems.  Best review for the X-H2S is Camera Conspiracies.  Casey did not like his X-H2S and sold it.  He is now using a GH6.   But based on his work, I do not see how his situation has improved.  He has to manual/back focus everything with the GH6.  He also claims that the X-H2S is noisy in 240P.  He is partially correct.  At high ISOs (anything over 2500) there is this weird elongated noise pattern that is almost impossible to get rid of.  However, if you stay under ISO 2000 (I can get away with it because I live in bright Phoenix, AZ) then I get an acceptable 240P video.  GH6 might still be better.  But then again, the autofocus is not a good.  Pick your poison.

Hope this helps.

Don

[New Shooter]

Thank you for the well thought out reply. I really appreciate it. 

[ABroadhead]

I have the H2S and it is much better in autofocus than the XT4, however you still need to check your settings.

I'm only an amateur and so I'm learning the ropes on this myself but there are people on youtube who use the H2S paired with the 150-600 and offer their takes (mike riley is one) and the blog and samples from http://alanhewittphotography.co.uk/fujifilm-x-h2s-and-xf150-600mm-lens is really good.

Also these guys break it down well: https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/tag/birds/

Have I ever been frustrated with it, yeah but a lot of that is also my fault, it's not a magic point and 100% hit rate. Have I had it do exactly what you say? Yep, I've focussed on backgrounds instead of subject and had it not acquire a bird in flight. I've not used other systems but it's likely not up there with the fast sonys yet.

Firmware wise they have issued some updates already and look to be putting some effort into supporting wildlife/sports photography so I would assume more to come where they see room for improvements.

Personally I love the feel of it for grip and weight and it pairs really well with the 70-300, 50-140 and 100-400.

Not sure where you are but you could try renting one for a bit and seeing how you go, I'm UK based and Fuji were offering rentals for the whole Christmas period for deposit only (seemed a good time to try the 16-55!) but sure there are similar deals going off. Or maybe there are some local try out days with a Fuji rep?

Whatever you decide hoping it will feed your desire to get out there and photograph wildlife!

[Fujiron]

I've been into bird and wildlife photography for many years and went from an X-H1 and 100-400/70-300 with 1.4TC  to the X-H2S and Fuji 150-600 recently and have come to many of the same conclusions about the BIF tracking already stated here. What I've noticed about the combo is the bird setting does very well on locking onto the bird's eye and getting sharp focus on the birds head i.e. the eye and beak but even stopped down to F11 lacks sharpness with the rest of the bird in many instances. I'm comparing the sharpness of the small feathers in DOF and the sharpening I have to add in processing to get them to come into sharp focus compared to the X-H1 and 70-300+1.4TC (a very good combination for birding and wildlife IMHO). As far as BIF I haven't had much luck with the X-H2S and 150-600 but write that off to technique as the 150-600 is a  longer lens than either the 70-300 and 100-400 and, for me, requires training my 75 year old muscle memory to handle the size and magnification of the longer focal length. My keeper rate is increasing the more I use the combo and practice technique for BIF but on the Oregon coast we have so many dark gray days I have to use a higher ISO to get the shutter speeds necessary at F8/F11 to capture moving birds and that of course degrades image quality. In the few days of bright sun we get I'm very pleased with the combo.