Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I shoot primarily fashion and portraiture, and have been using a Sony A7 since 2013 with Sony/Zeiss glass with great results for the most part.

 

As my photography improves, I have been gaining a better understanding of my style and have been looking for ways to enhance that style.  Essentially, I enjoy photos that have a timeless, vintage look, and sometimes dreamy look to them instead of modern photos that look just like a 100% true representation of the present reality.  

 

I know that this look could probably be obtained by using photoshop, tools like VSCO, etc (and this is likely what most people do).  However, I have never enjoyed spending hours to manipulate a photo, nor do I find the results very satisfying (perhaps due to my limited knowledge of post-processing too).  My solution became a simple one, where I began to explore the advantages of the mirrorless system by buying legacy lenses with the appropriate rendering for my style.  In this case, I bought a Zeiss C-Sonnar 50/1.5 for M-mount.  This approach worked well and gave me results that were vintage looking with lower contrast and the all important classical look.  Of course, it is no secret that the characteristics of the lens translate directly to the sensor and the final photo, making it difficult to change my mind about the mood of a photo after the fact.  Another problem is that the lenses are still not optimized for these mirrorless systems, and lens sharpness and performance is understandably lower as a result. There is alot of trial and error involved in finding and testing the right lenses with the appropriate rendering to fit the mood I am looking for.  Yesterday, I bought a Summicron 50mm f2, and ended up not liking its rendering with my camera.  

 

This had me rethinking about my approach, since I also have an XT-1 that I have been borrowing, which is fantastic and achieves similar results with film simulations which could be altered after the photo is taken.  Even when compared to Leica lenses, I find the Fuji glass is every bit as good, especially in terms of colour, sharpness, and micro-contrast.  Yes, the photos must still be sharp to be acceptable, but for the most part, I prioritize lens rendering over sharpness.  I don't need to have the sharpest lens in the world, but it has to be sharp enough for my use for photographing fashion and portraiture.  

 

 

What are your thoughts on my approach?

 

Does using legacy vintage lenses produce a unique mood and rendering to the photos that is not possible to be created in post-processing?

 

Instead, is it far more desirable to shoot using a neutral lens with extreme clarity and sharpness, and then adjust the rendering, colours, etc. in post-processing?  

 

Is Fuji X the solution?  

 

The photos attached shows my Jpegs straight out of camera with no editting using:

1) Girl with blonde hair - Sony A7 with Zeiss 50/1.5 C-Sonnar

2) Door - Fuji XT-1 with 23mm/1.4

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want that vintage/film look, best solution is to shoot film. I shoot film for fun, digital for the convenience.

 

If you want a unique colouring, you can do nearly anything in post, though it's always hard to simulate real film. Film and digital will always look different.

 

If you like how a certain lens renders, well, then there's the http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/forum/6-adapting-lenses-to-fuji-x/ part of the forum where they'll answer all of your questions.

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are many ways to do anything and go anyplace and in the end you have to do what works for you which will, most certainly not find necessarily other people’s approval.

 

It all comes down to what you have produced at the end of the process, if it is good it's good, if it isn’t then it is not.

 

The goal, in this case, other than in Zen, is not the way you to the achievement but the achievement, the result of the process.

 

You can get caught in all sorts of illusory superstitions and believe that a picture has to be the result of this that ot the other process and can only be obtained through that magic combination, but it ain’t necessarily so!

 

As Ira Gershwin wrote even the “ things that are liable to be in the bible ain't necessarily so”! There are no fixed truths in photography but many at the same time.

 

I find also slightly puzzling though certainly revealing that you called your site visual poetry journey.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Some would prefer to show only what they see, other would show you what they want you to see and there are some who would like to show you what they see.

None of them are right, nor any of them is wrong too.

 

Photography is a very personal thing, your pictures has to please you first and foremost. If it also happen to please others, all the better !

 

But in the end, there is nothing else beside, you and your subject. It really doesn't matter why you are doing it or how you are doing it. Just enjoy it.

 

As for the legacy lenses, plenty of them are perfectly usable with the Fuji X-T1, I have an Helios M44-2 58mm F2 with a focal reducer and the Super Takumar "Bokehnator" 105mm F2.8 with a dumb adapter. I swap the adapters around when needed or when I want to change the field of view on the lens. 

So far, I have been very satisfied with the results and the way the pictures are taken, somehow it feels more organic to shoot with those legacy lenses, you are a lot involved into the shot than just pressing a button here and there.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think there are characteristics of some legacy glass that are difficult if not impossible to recreate in post. I have some different legacy lenses I use, nothing that I'd say is really cool, but they do change the look of the photo. I prefer to get the look I want in camera. I'm not a fan of spending time post processing. I think the film simulations enhance the legacy glass even more.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think there are characteristics of some legacy glass that are difficult if not impossible to recreate in post.[...]

 

The Helios 44 series is a very good example, up to the 44-3 version, it still had the swirly bokeh, later version lost it because that specific bokeh was caused by a lens defect, which they corrected on later versions.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...