Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Extra to my last contrribution with my Xpro/Xt1 and Catus V6 I use Nikon SB600 and SB800 flash units plus my Fujifilm EF42 - but but don't forget it is all in manual mode. For exposure I use Sekonic Flashmate L-308S.  However, why not just start with a guess multi braketed exposure and you very quickly not need a flash meter.

Link to post
Share on other sites

John Poremba (Roboshoot) is a delegate at my workshop in Santa Barbara. So those who take part at this event will have the opportunity to personally ask him about his Fuji-compatible wireless TTL products. I assume he'll also bring a demo unit.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...

I started using the YN622N-TX with two YN622N II on SB-800 and SB-600.  It works but completely manual.  You can't even change the setting from the transmitter to increase flash exposure, you have to do it on the flash itself. I think it is a bit of an overkill for $200.  There must be something simpler as the YN622N-TX has so many functions that you cannot use. The various channels are useless as you have to change the setting on each flash anyway.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It seems like the Yungnow YN622C-TX works better than the YN622N-TX.  And I think it is because the Cannon version has the legacy option.  If you have Nikon gear u might as well opt for the Yongnuo RF-602 Wireless Flash Trigger Kit & Shutter Release since you cannot control the flash output wirelessly on the YN622N-TX (Why I don't know, mine does not work).

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...