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First of all, all those settings are only (mostly ?) applied to the jpeg output files.

 

If you shoot RAW files, none of the above matters.

 

And if you shoot jpeg directly, there are no one settings for all. You will need to change them on regular basis depending on your subject. Sometimes you will have more light, other times you want to keep the reflection on water (think of port cities).

 

What I usually have is have the NR at 0 or -1 and Sharpening at around 0 or +1 depending on how bad it looks from the LCD.

 

As for film simulation, I like Provia a lot but if there are a lot of colors and I want deeper night too, I swap to Velvia. 

 

Little side note, on the bracketing option, you can go for Film Simulation, just pick 3 of them that you like/want to try and take the shot. You will be rewarded with 3 jpeg files with each their own film simulation, kind of handy if you are unsure which one would come out the best for the scenery.

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Yeah, low NR, although I do use Long Exposure NR (black frame NR). Definitely go with raw+Fine. Fine so that you can gauge your shots in camera and raw to have all the latitude the raw file allows for later. Use low ISO (200) and small aperture (I prefer 11 +/1 one stop).

 

Get a good tripod. Get a cheap cable remote release, you can't go beyond 30 seconds without one. Rest of the settings don't matter too much. Learn how to operate full manual to get the most out of it.

 

It's really not hard, go out and shoot some, take a look at the results, go out again and repeat with the experience from last time. It takes a few times to get some nice shots, but it's a lot of fun. 

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