Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Thanks for all the suggestions. I ended up taking the X100T only and had a blast with such a small kit. There were very few times I wished I had more reach. If you're interested, the best (imho) of my many shots can be found here: https://dbspano.smugmug.com/Street-Photography/Italy.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Some great shots.

 

Feel they could have been improved upon with maybe the optional Canon 1Dx2, a carbon tripod and selection of top end L class glass :-D

(Or the Nikon equivalent).

 

Seriously though, you comfortably prove the point as to why you only need something like a X-100T for trips like that.

Not all shots are those that would appeal to me - but they demonstrate the ability of the camera and its user ;-)

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Nice shots..are these RAW or JPEG, any pp?

 

Robin

I shot raw and did very minimal work--a little cropping and sharpening--in post. I used Adobe's version of the Fuji film simulations in Lightroom.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I'm HEAVILY in favor of the lightweight x100T.

i'm a professional photog with a couple of xt1s and and have owned the xe1 and xe2... last year went on a 2 week trip to france with only the x100T.  because you can put it in a coat pocket, you don't even notice it, won't want to ever leave it in the hotel.

 

while the xe2 and the kit lens is pretty small, i feel it requires a small bag... whereas the x100t is so light you sometimes have to check if it's really on your shoulder.  

 

so... my two cents.

Link to post
Share on other sites

When traveling abroad, I always take a backup camera, so my suggestion would be to take both cameras. A few years ago, I climbed to the top of Mount Vesuvius, where I planned to take photos of the splendid views of the volcano, Pompeii, and Naples. Unfortunately, my camera, a Leica, malfunctioned and stopped working. That afternoon, I went to a camera store in Naples and bought another camera, but I didn't have time to reshoot the views from Vesuvius. If I had taken a backup camera, things would have been a lot simpler and more productive.

Good point, but defeats the purpose of traveling light because my iphone is perfectly suitable as a backup in a pinch. 

Instead of a second camera, I'd rather have a small flash (EF-X20) and my X100T.

I use to carry my XT-1 with 2-3 lenses on trips, but since owning the X100T, I can't imagine traveling with anything else.

Having a small hot-shoe flash has been invaluable as well.

The size and features of the X100T with the EF-X20 in the Ona leather Bowery make them a perfect travel combo.

Edited by plaidshirts
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...