Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I like to set my min. shutter speed to 1/1000th of a second on my sony when shooting street in auto ISO. But it appears there is no option to go higher than 1/500th on my Fuji. This is quite perplexing to me. Obviously the camera is capable of higher shutter speeds. Why this limitation? Is there a way around this?? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 2/26/2021 at 3:42 PM, J-P Lee said:

I set mine to 12800.  It's definitely possible in the menus.  I don't have my camera with me at the moment, but let me know if you need a walkthrough.

I mean the shutter speed not the ISO... I set my max ISO to 3200 or 6400 but I can't set the min. shutter speed higher than 1/500. Just seems odd, I can set it as high as I want on my Sony 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Its the same for all Fuji X series cameras - its annoying.

On the X-T series if you are in Program Exposure mode you can set one of the command dials to S.S. (Program Shift) and rotate the dial to up the shutter speed - then it should stay as a minimum - not sure if this works for your camera.

Not ideal but maybe better than nothing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, Greybeard said:

Its the same for all Fuji X series cameras - its annoying.

On the X-T series if you are in Program Exposure mode you can set one of the command dials to S.S. (Program Shift) and rotate the dial to up the shutter speed - then it should stay as a minimum - not sure if this works for your camera.

Not ideal but maybe better than nothing.

Got it. Really don't understand this, come on Fuji! But thanks for the help. Glad its not something I'm missing at least 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
    • How does one make sure that Fuji's image correction is turned on to correct barrel and pin-cushion distortion on a GFX 100 or GFX100S when using the GF20-35? Is it only applied to the jpegs and not to the raw files? (I was surprised to discover the barrel distortion on the GF 35-70mm lens.) I normally shoot in raw with jpeg back-up and use the raw files, which I convert either in Affinity Photo 2 when editing with that program or in Raw File Converter Ex 3.0 by Silkypix if I wish to process the image in Photoshop CS6. (Adobe DNG is also a possibility.) Thank you for the help. Trevor
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...