XT3 Post Workflow

[KellyL]

Recently made the switch from Nikon to the XT3. My Nikon post workflow ( Bridge / CS5) will not work with the XT3. Looking to replace with similar workflow to avoid learning an entirely different system.  Any thoughts would be appreciated

[Greybeard]

How about upgrading the Adobe software?

[KellyL]

Thinking the same  just wanted to make sure that was the best option 

[Greybeard]

10 hours ago, KellyL said:

Thinking the same  just wanted to make sure that was the best option 

You'll get a lot of different opinions as to the "best" option unfortunately. Its going to be a balance between how much you want to pay, how much you are willing to learn new software and whether each option provides the functions you want.

There are some who have had trouble with processing Fuji X files with Lightroom - if that is a concern you might try the Adobe DNG raw converter route for a while and see if you like the results.

[Lumens]

There is a lot of discussion on this.  Bottom line XT-3 files are handled fine by Adobe if you have a current version.  I have heard a large number of complaints about the subscription model, but it does work and it is what I use.

I also see a large number of Fuji users moving to Capture One as it does do a nice job with Fuji RAW files.  Adobe treats X Trans files as if they were Bayer sensor files causing noise and artifacts.  I have found if I use C1 import defaults as a preset to import into Adobe then Lightroom works just fine.

Most is a matter of personal preference.  I have tried and learned how to use most software options out there, but I started in Lightroom and I am comfortable in it.  So I figured out how to make it work.

[dennisfriesen.me]

22 hours ago, Lumens said:

I have found if I use C1 import defaults as a preset to import into Adobe then Lightroom works just fine.

Can you please explain how this works?

[Lumens]

40 minutes ago, dennisfriesen.me said:

Can you please explain how this works?

I first tested by importing an image (actually tested several) into C1 and Lightroom, then looked at the defaults.  I  did need to make corrections for the different scales, but I found two items making the big difference - sharpening & Noise Reduction.

1. Sharpening was set to roughly 18 by C1 compared to 40 in Lightroom.  Although I've learned since C1 will adjust sharpening based on image ISO. It is still roughly 18-25 compared to 40 in Lightroom.  As I understand it X trans sensor files will be sharper than Bayer sensor files so Lightroom defaults add too much sharpening (causing the artifacts & worms).  Lightroom is geared for Bayer sensor files - not X Trans.

2. Luminance/Color (Noise Reduction) in C1 is set to 50 every time, while Lightroom is set to 0.  C1 for Fuji adjusts Noise Reduction to compensate for the extra sharpness of the X Trans file.

I found if I import to Lightroom with the C1 defaults - that is a preset setting Sharpening to 20 and Noise Reduction to 50 I can work with my image in Lightroom much the same as with C1 and the results are the same.  I am much more comfortable in Lightroom so this is works very well for me.  C1 for Fuji is geared for X Trans files - you simply need to adjust Lightroom away from the Bayer sensor and more towards the X Trans sensor.

Actually what's best though, is to import into Lightroom with a preset Sharpening & Noise Reduction both set to 0.  I make all the global adjustments I want being cautious with contrast, texture, & clarity as those tools do increase sharpening.  Then I adjust sharpening and add masking as necessary (use ALT key).  If necessary (High ISO images) then I'll add Noise Reduction feeling free to go all the way up to 50 if necessary.

[dennisfriesen.me]

On 3/3/2020 at 2:47 PM, Lumens said:

Actually what's best though, is to import into Lightroom with a preset Sharpening & Noise Reduction both set to 0.  I make all the global adjustments I want being cautious with contrast, texture, & clarity as those tools do increase sharpening.  Then I adjust sharpening and add masking as necessary (use ALT key).  If necessary (High ISO images) then I'll add Noise Reduction feeling free to go all the way up to 50 if necessary.

Thanks!

Also the "details" slider in Lightroom should be set to 0. I think it's at 25 by default. That slider is causing those annoying wormy artifacts...

Edited March 5, 2020 by dennisfriesen.me

[Lumens]

3 hours ago, dennisfriesen.me said:

Thanks!

Also the "details" slider in Lightroom should be set to 0. I think it's at 25 by default. That slider is causing those annoying wormy artifacts...

I think I do that when I shut down the the Sharpening & Noise Reduction I'll have to check when I get home.  If I remember correctly I move all the sliders in those categories to 0.

Thanks.