Jump to content

Using MCEX-16 and Nik - FX convertor


Geoff Weber

Recommended Posts

As a recent convert to Fujifilm I purchased a NIK - FX convertor in order to use some of my old lenses that would other wise have sat in a draw. I had used a Tamron 70-300mm Tele Macro on my Nikon and although it has its limitations, always did a good enough job for me with the limited amount of macro I have fun with. I also purchased a Fujifilm MCEX-16 prior to the convertor to utilize my Fuji lenses for macro use.

It then occurred to me that  if I put the converter onto the Tamron lens and then in series, the MCEX-16, would I then potentially increase the macro ability of the Tamron on the camera. I think the answer is no, as on further reflection, all the  MCEX-16 function does is to place the lens a specific distance away from the sensor. Putting the convertor in between just increases that distance and therefore renders it useless. Am I correct or is there a solution - also interested that with this set up there appears to be nothing on the sensor as the back screen is dark, even when pointing directly to a light source. I have switched the screen settings to 'shoot without lens' and also with it on.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Extension tubes reduce minimum focus distance and increase magnification, at the cost of losing infinity focus while mounted. So yes, it would have an effect.


However a 16mm tube will not significantly increase magnification of a 70-300 lens due to the small amount of extension. You would need a significantly longer extension tube to have an effect (at 300mm, you need 150mm of extension to go from Infinity to 1:2 , or from 1:2 to 1:1). The MCEX-16 is best paired with a 35mm or shorter lens if a significant change in magnification is required. 

I'd suggest getting a used Micro-Nikkor 55mm f3.5 for pairing with your Nik-FX adapter to get up to 1:2 Macro (1:1 if paired with a PK-13 extension tube). They're available for as little as $35 from KEH.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/14/2020 at 11:48 AM, matsonfamily said:

I disagree that it wouldn't be significant.  I think the flange distance is the distance that the extension tube modifies, not the focal length.

That is correct, and also the reason why extension tubes aren't effective on long lenses. Extension is bellows extension, not focal length extension. Extension tubes add bellows extension.

To get 1:1 magnification for macro work you need extension equivalent to the focal length of the lens if the lens is at infinity focus. That means a 55mm lens needs 55mm of extension to hit 1:1, but a 300mm lens needs 300mm of extension to hit 1:1 from infinity.

If the lens reaches 1:2 magnification at Minimum Focus Distance, then you need an additional 1/2 focal length of extension to reach 1:1, so that 55mm needs 27.5mm of extension to go from 1:2 to 1:1. But a 70-300 that reaches 1:2 (like the older Tamron 70-300 non-VC) needs 150mm.

That extension is what the extension tube provides. Naturally it's a LOT easier to get a tube configuration providing 27mm of extension (which the usual 11mm+16mm pair provides), but quite difficult to get 150mm of extension to get the 70-300 there (and remember, that 70-300 is only going to be at max magnification when it's at 300mm, so no cheaping out and adding 35mm to get it there at the 70mm setting).

Edited by mawz
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...