glospete

Did that work?

I see no problem in using your Duracell batteries. I use a number of different makes of after-market batteries with my X-T2 (ChilliPower, EXPro etc) and whilst they maybe discharge quicker than the OEM Fuji batteries, the extra cost of OEM batteries is not justified IMO. I also use after-market chargers which give more information about charge levels than the Fuji one.

1. Try another card in the camera - if OK then it's the original card that is the problem, not the camera. 2. Assuming that you have downloaded all the images from the card then I would reformat the card in your computer and then reformat it again in the camera.

Although you've said that you used a tripod, a shutter speed of 1/13 second is VERY slow to ascertain sharpness IMO. Even just pressing the shutter button at that speed can introduce movement. It would be better to use brighter conditions (outdoors?) and up the shutter speed to at least 1/200 second. Then do your comparison again and see whether you can see a difference.

As far as I understand Fuji has developed a new system for their stabilisation in the latest lenses. Previously we were told to switch stabilisation off when using a tripod but now the latest lenses "sense" when they are on a tripod and set themselves accordingly. I guess some of us forgot to switch the stabilisation off when using a tripod! This prevents that although to be honest I'm not sure what difference it makes.

If you edit your photos in a programme such as Adobe Lightroom you can use the Shadow slider to boost detail in the shadows. Particularly if you shoot using RAW your will see an amazing difference.

I have every X-T2 firmware update from v2.00 to v4.40 and including v2.00, v2.10 and v2.12 so let me know which you want and how to send it and it will be done.

I have an X-T2 but 'm not sure but doubt whether this is possible but why not do it with software such as Photoshop or many of the other editing software programs available. You'll have much better control over the final result.

You are not hallucinating - the Boost Mode is available with or without the Booster Grip. If you go to page 229 of the X-T2 User Guide v1.0 or page 238 of the User Guide v2.1 you'll see a brief mention of it there. Without a grip, “Boost” mode is activated by the down arrow Fn button. Some people move this to the “Fn” button on the top of the camera as that arrow key offers more “prime” Fn button real estate for their usage. Using Boost, AF performance changes from Normal to Fast and EVF display quality from Normal to High with the refresh rate changing from 60fps to 100fps. Using the VPB-XT2 Vertical Power Booster Grip, you can switch the grip’s performance selector to “Boost”, which will literally boost the maximum Continuous High frame rate from 8fps, to 11fps, whilst simultaneously reducing the release lag from 50ms to 45ms! But the payback is a consequent reduction in battery life - from 340 farmers using LCD to 260 and from 330 frames using the EVF down to 200. One interesting aspect is that with all batteries on board, and the Boost switch in Normal Mode, power is drawn first from the left VPB battery, then the right, before drawing down on the camera battery. If Boost mode is activated, power is drawn from all batteries at once, providing sufficient current for the higher power demand.

Of course Vincent. When you shoot RAW it is simply that - there are no film sims or any other info included such as white balance etc . So your RAW file will be "untainted" and you can add the film sims or not at your processing stage. Which leaves you to use whatever film sim you want for the JPG file, but that will be "burnt in" as well as white balance etc.

Go to SETUP (spanner symbol) - Save Data Setup - Copyright Information - change the information on Copyright and Author here) It is well buried I have to admit but this should solve your problem. Peter

You want to be thankful that you don't have an X-T1 as the 4-way rocker panel was really flimsy and caused lots of problems. I have 2 X-T2 cameras and find the buttons fine for my fingers and I've never thought of them as flimsy.

Personally I wouldn't risk a DIY repair and would take/send it to a repairer (not necessarily to Fuji). Of course if it is under warranty then IMHO you should send to Fuji or their agent as any future warranty work could be a problem. Does your home insurance cover such damage? Mine does so would be my first call.

You asked an open question for 2 lenses and then closed it down by saying you had decided already on the 23mm! My 2 choices would be (and in fact are) the 10-24mm and the 18-55mm standard lens. If you wanted a third choice then I'd add the 55-200mm zoom but very often I just crop an image from the 18-55mm on my X-T2 and that suffices. With the X-T4 you'll have even more pixels to play with so you may not need a longer zoom.

The X on a camera's shutter speed dial signifies the flash sync speed which is s the fastest shutter speed at which a camera and flash can sync. Ib your case that speed is 1/180 second.