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Everything posted by glospete

  1. Hi i can’t explain the portrait/landscape issue but I can comment on the file handling. I have 2 X-T2 bodies and to differentiate the files I use the “edit file name” feature. I have one called XT2Axxxx and the other XT2Bxxxx so that should solve that. Go to: MENU spanner, Save Data Set-Up, Edit File Name Assuming you are using Continuous file numbering (see below) when your camera clicks through 9999 images and reverts to 0001then you could change the prefix eg XT3C which would then give you 359,974 unique file names for this camera. For the issue of file renaming, check that you are using “continuous” frame numbering. This setting is relevant as to whether the camera resets the file numbering scheme when you change memory cards or reformat the current one. By setting Frame No. to “Continuous”, you are telling your camera to: “Number my files in order till you reach 9,999, then start again at “1” – no matter how many times I take my memory card out of the camera or reformat it. Set this to “Renew” though, and you've instructed the camera to: “Start numbering at “1” each time I reformat or insert a new memory card.”. I always use Continuous. Go to: MENU spanner, Save Data Set-Up, Frame No. Hope the above helps.
  2. Interesting question as that is the main feature I miss on my Fuji X cameras over my Canon 7D which I used with a Canon GP-E2 geotagger. As far as I know there is no comparable device for the X-series. I tried the Fuji App but it is flaky at best so is not really an option for me. So what I do is use my iPhone with an App called Geotag Photos 2 which creates a GPX route of my journey and then you can use something like Lightroom to link the two together and it then places the geo data in the Metadata. I have the App set to record with a minimal position change of 10 yards which works well for me. It's obviously more of a hassle than having a dedicated geotagger but it works for me. And although it is running continuously (as it records the route) it doesn't use a huge amount of battery. I carry a small power-bank but have never needed to use it whilst using this App. Details are at: https://www.geotagphotos.net Hope this helps!
  3. I also have 2 X-T2 cameras and neither exhibit what you describe! The attached photos show the camera set to 1/250 second (shows 250 in the LCD/EVF) and the other shows 6.5 seconds. I have mine set to ES but it makes no difference whether it is using ES or MS. Sorry but can't explain it further.
  4. I assume you mean that you have updated your operating system to Mojave? I am now on Mojave (I always install on a "spare" computer first to see if there are bugs) but there have been no issues at all. I use Adobe Lightroom Classic CC and Photoshop CC and both open Fuji RAW files with no problem.
  5. When I don't take a laptop I use a Hyperdrive Colorspace UDMA II drive with 1TB hard disk which has slots for SD and CF cards and has a (fairly rudimentary) 3.2" LCD screen. But it's very portable and has proved reliable so far (I've had it since 2015). I've no idea if it's still available though.
  6. No I think that you will always need to connect via the USB or microphone socket for any remote trigger. I'll let you know when I've tried mine out but it will probably be a few weeks before I get around to it.
  7. I have just bought the Hahnel Captur Remote Trigger for my X-T2 which I think will do exactly what you want. In addition I’ve bought the add-on Pro Module so I can try some creative work with laser triggering and a host of other features. As the unit has just arrived I can’t give any test results yet.
  8. I have the 18-55 and an X-T2 and have never had any issues with image quality. In fact I often crop the image quite a bit and it holds up extremely well. I also have the 35mm 1.4 (which I admit I rarely use), the 10-24 on another body (love this lens for its great perspective) and the 55-200. The latter I also don’t use too often as it makes the kit bag heavy and cropping the 18-55 often suffices. Go for the 18-55 - you’ll love it. The only downside is that it’s not water resistant.
  9. I use Expert Shield protectors from Amazon and they are perfect. I've tried a number of other makes but keep coming back to these. My current one on my X-T2 has been on for 2 years and the camera has been round the world (literally!).
  10. I had an X-E2 and a X-T1. Traded in the X-E2 for an X-T2 and much prefer it to the X-T1. Now selling my X-T1 so that I have 2 identical bodies as it can get confusing at times because of different controls, menu items etc. I have no hesitation in recommending X-T2 over X-T1 - IQ, handling, dual slots, bigger files great for out of camera cropping. I could go on .....
  11. I have v4.0 and I've posted it to my Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vqxzyiazjztm9c2/AAClb-ekqUJeIZK3IOOf0YW2a?dl=0
  12. Great shot but how about sharing the settings with the rest of us so we can benefit from your experience?
  13. Hi I use a LowePro TopLoader 50AWII which nicely takes my X-T2 with VPB and the 18-55mm lens. Do ensure your get the 50AWII not the 50AW as that won't fit.
  14. the first figure is the resolution (4K is 3840 pixels x 2160 lines). The second is the frames per second -
  15. Hi Jesse Congrats on the move to X-T2 - I did a similar thing in that I traded in my X-E2 and bought the X-T2 to add to my X-T1. I like to have 2 cameras, not as a back up, but because it is so easy to get dust on the sensor of mirrorless cameras I keep my 18-55mm on the X-T2 and my 10-24mm on the X-T1. That way I have access to either camera quickly without changing lenses. I can answer a few of your questions: 4K video - I use SanDisk Ultra 64GB UHS-1 Class 10 cards. These will be fine for your video although I have to say that I am not into video. Adobe Lightroom - I really like Lightroom but I would recommend upgrading to Lightroom CC from your existing 5.7.1 as there are many new features and the latest version supports all the film simulations from Fuji. I always shoot in RAW+JPEG so that I can more easily push and pull exposures. I am really impressed as to how much detail can be got from a way underexposed shot. If I'm honest the JPEG is often superfluous but it's a nice safety copy to keep. I only use the simulations in post-processing and never use them within the camera. I have Luminar 2018 (but rarely use it) and very soon it will have image management built in and a feature which allows it to read Lightroom catalogs. Watch this space! One program I do like is Intensify CK from MacPhun which I use as a plug-in for Lightroom. Have a look at Jeffrey Friedl's plug-ins for Lightroom - some really nice ones there. Batteries - I use Chillipower NP-W126 batteries and they are fine - no problems at all. And as you will already know Fuji X cameras do need a LOT of batteries. Books I would recommend: Rico Pfirstinger "Fujifilm X-T2 120 X-Pert Tips" Tony Philips Fujifilm_X-T2_v1.2 Have fun!
  16. Hi Jorge A very interesting topic! I hadn't done the calculation but using the excellent Jeffrey Friedl's “Megapixel Sort” Lightroom Plugin I can see that I've taken just over 25,000 shots with my XE-2 (now retired), my X-T1 and my recently acquired X-T2. I always thought I used the 18-55 a lot but I now see that it has been used for 71% of all my photos. My 10-24mm has been used for 21% and the remaining 8% is spread between the 35mm F1.4, and the 55-200mm. I now ask myself why did I buy these other lenses? But I totally agree that the 18-55mm is a fantastic lens - sharp, lightweight and inexpensive. What's not to like?
  17. Both apps have updated fine on my iPad so it may be worth deleting and re-downloading again. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  18. Because apps are no longer updated via iTunes, on your iPad/iPhone go to the app called App Store and Under Updates you should see Fujifilm Camera Remote (I don't use Photo Receiver) and click on Update. You'll probably need to pair your camera again but that should solve your problem.
  19. Yes I forgot to say that there is battery impact but the latest versions of the app minimise it and I can do a whole mornings recording (with GeoTag Photos) and not flatten my battery. I carry a portable charger thing to boost my battery if I need it but nowadays I don't need to use it. And the Map feature of Lightroom shows all the photos on a map and small thumbnails of them in their location. Very clever.
  20. I’ll let others answer points 1 and 2 but I feel able to answer number 3. Yes it is disappointing that there is no built-in GPS but in fairness Fuji never claimed there was. Using the Fuji app to add GPS coordinates is rather clunky so what I do is this. On my iPhone I use an app called GeotagPhotos http://www.geotagphotos.net All is explained on their site but basically you ensure your camera has EXACTLY the same time as your phone, start the app and then it records the position where you took each photo - it actually records a track (using the phone’s built-in GPS). All your recorded routes can then be exported as a GPX file via Dropbox, email, or the web and using Lightroom or a similar program it matches the time along the route with the time you took each photo and then tags each photo with the location. Simples! I use it all the time and it works perfectly. I also get a nice route of where I took my photos as well as them being individually tagged.
  21. I know it's been discussed at length but as a user of an X-T1 I have to say it"s never been an issue for me and I've been using mine since 2015. I'm not sure that Fuji have ever changed the design.
  22. Page 39 of the User Manual (v2.1). I have pasted from it below: The camera can be used with two cards, one in each of its two slots. At default settings, photos are saved to the card in the second slot only when the card in the first slot is full. This can be changed using D SAVE DATA SET-UP > CARD SLOT SETTING (STILL IMAGE). SEQUENTIAL (default) - The card in the second slot is used only when the card in the first slot is full. If the second slot is selected for D SAVE DATA SET-UP > SWITCH SLOT (SEQUENTIAL), recording will start on the card in the second slot and switch to the first slot when the card in the second slot is full. BACKUP - Each picture is recorded twice, once to each card. RAW/JPEG - As for SEQUENTIAL, except that the RAW copy of pictures taken with FINE + RAW or NORMAL + RAW selected for H IMAGE QUALITY SETTING > IMAGE QUALITY will be saved to the card in the first slot and the JPEG copy to the card in the second slot. Hope that helps.
  23. I have both cameras and they are identical so no problem. But I had a glass screen protector on my X-T2 and it chipped on the edge. So I went to replace it but when I came to remove it it shattered into thousands of tiny pieces. I had to carefully collect all the pieces to ensure nothing got inside my camera or viewfinder etc. So no more glass screens for me - I'm back to the plastic Expert Shield versions which I always used to use. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. You don't need to open the file - just copy it from your computer to a blank SD card, insert in the camera, hold DISP as you switch on and press OK. That will update the firmware to the 2.1 version on your card.
  25. Some interesting points Greg. I am even older then you (67) and moved from Canon to Fuji and haven't looked back since I did. I worked in the photo business for 38 years and yes in those days it was really "photo" as opposed to "imaging". Although this also included working for Fuji for 18 years I was a strong supporter of Canon SLRs and then DSLRs and only when the X-series cameras emerged did i move to Fuji equipment. I was fortunate to be involved in the very early digital cameras with Fuji - the DS-7 in 1996 with its 0.35MP sensor and SmartMedia cards. In 21 years we've gone from 0.35MP to 24MP with the Fuji brand alone! In image quality terms the DS-7 (and the Casio QV-10 which I still have in my collection) were rubbish and nobody in their right mind would have used digital in preference to analogue photography. But now ..... I think your point about the separation of the forums is an interesting one as I have both X-T2 and X-T1 and I find myself switching back and forth between the sub-forums. But I am signed up to receive notifications from both and quite frankly there are not a huge amount of posts so it isn't too much of a hassle. And many (but not all) are model specific issues - this or that doesn't work, menu issues etc and separating them is IMO probably the most efficient way to go. And there is a General Discussion section under Fuji X News & Rumours for such general issues. But welcome to the Forum Greg and we hope you will participate on here as you've obviously got a lot of experience and sounds like some strong opinions! By the way what is the Brick?
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