gordonrussell76

I hear you on the weight difference but I have found that weight bother me less with Fuji system. I have big shoulders and I rarely notice the load with any 3 lens in my Tenba DNA 8 what is more important is can i get 3 lens in there and still have any lens on the camera at any time. The minute I have to swap a lens just to get it all back in the bag is when I get frustrated. Everyone is different. With the 10-24/35/55-200 it all works. Granted the 14/35/55-200 would also work well and be lighter, but you would be giving up a lot of versatility as I see that lens as a 10/14/18/24mm primes.with what i shoot I would rarely go below F4 at those focal lengths so Aperture is not a priority scuse the pun. 35mm gives me something bocalicious and is just a great walkaround lens and 55-200 rounds it all out in the long end and aperture is not important as compression at longer focal lengths tends to take care of subject seperation without relying on bokeh. However I am getting more and more tempted by an all prime travel kit going really simple so a 14/35/90 setup is mightily tempting Obviously the rolls royce version you take the 16mm and 35mm F2 and be fully weather sealed. I would probably stick with F1.4 though as I will never sell that lens and I can't justify 2 in the same focal length just to have WR, come on F1.4 mk ii with same optics faster AF and WR don't care if its slightly bigger its my favorite lens. FROD on the subject of ultrawide, thats why I like the 10-24mm ultra wide relies on you being super close to work (bizarrly) I would never wnat to be caught with only somethign super wide on teh camera (and I only have or want 1 body) I tend to use the 10-24mm at 24mm or 18mm most of the time, but its great if the situation allows and I am in the right place to be able to have 10/12/14 to call on when I need them. Horse for courses though. G G

Your going to get a lot of opinions on this I like the 18-135mm and if you have kids with you when you travel buy it. Basically my recomendation would be Wide 10-24mm - it not that much bigger than the 14 and 16 and it gives you so much more, its a great great lens. Normal - 35 F1.4 (great low light option) 18-55mm or 18-135 to be versatile Tele - 55-200 best bang for buck in terms of sharpness and reach. Slower AF than 18-135 and not as well stabilized. Personally I would go with the 35mm F1.4 option above Its a small kit you can fit in something like a Tenba DNA 8 you have coverage from 10-200mm and you have a low light option. You have 2 portrait options in the 35mm and the 55-200 at 90mm is very nice starting to get compression but also still have some DOF effect. You also have 2 street options the 10-24mm is great at 24mm and the 35mm is born for the street, just use it stopped down and any AF issues go away.

I love that based on a couple of pictures a bunch of you decided it was going to be 10-15% bigger, because obviously as photographers the idea that whatever lens that took the picture might have distorted perspective never should have occurred to you I mean people just put coins or batteries into pictures to show scale for no reason

The 90mm continually blows my mind. Just for shizzles and giggles this weekend I took it out along with my 55-200mm and I shot some wildlife and birds at the same physical distances at 90mm and 200mm respectively. When I cropped the 90mm to match the 200mm field of view tabout 70% of the shots were sharper from the cropped 90mm even when zoomed in further. I find that mind blowing. If it were not for the issue of initial target acquisition there is part of me that is tempted to ditch the 55-200 and take the 90mm instead for my canada trip. erk1024 thank you for your kind words It funny i bought the 90mm because of an oh wow moment in the shop where I pointed it out the window and got an amazing first shot (featured on Fuji Love few months back). Then my brain kicked in and I started wandering if were a practical lens for me. Those street shots were part of me trying to convince myself I could live without it and sell it and the 55-200 to justify the 50-140mm, the irony is that the more I have used it the more I am realizing how versatile it is. I did a few shots this weekend that show that its very good at architecture if you have the distance to get far enough away and that leads me to suspect that it will do well at landscape. In addition its close focus is fabulous and it makes a great Macro lens. I will put up another gallery later this week with a few shots to illustrate this point. G

T-Pain is famous for using Auto- Tune creatively. In the music world auto-tune is generally used to fix a bad vocal, he uses it to push his voice to sound completely unreal in a creative way. Its an analogue to photoshop, purists hate it, however an argument can be made that anything that allows you to do something different or realize the ideas in your head is justified. For a more recognizable example of auto-tune as effect, but not necessarily a good one is Cher, do you believe in life after love. G

Good luck. Handy hint and this is by no means the right way its just a way of thinking I find that helps. Shutter Speed - High = Freeze action, stable shots Low = Blur Aperture - Low No (not low aperture as technically apertures of 1.2 is actually High and 22 is low, but thats annoying) So Low = Shallow depth of field good for bluring background in a portrait whiel subject remains sharp. Higher number mean more depth of field, better for landscapes etc up to about F11/16 where difraction starts to set in. ISO - High equals more light, low = Less REmember that a High aperture and a high shutter speed will mean less light so use ISO to compensate. But also remember then higher the ISO the more grain so the less sharp the picture will be. Good starting point for shooting your wife above A = F2 SS = 200 and ISO on Auto, it will automatically adjust the light for you, or if you are feeling brave adjust the iso to taste. G

Mike G The 18-135mm was the first weather sealed lens, and the gaskets caused the zoom to not be so smooth, design teething trouble fixed by the time the 16-55 and 50-140mm came out? Interestingly on my copy of the 18-135mm lens this has eased massively with use and its a smooth as my 55-200mm. Oh and everyone slates it for sharpness and I have found it to be exceedingly sharp from about 35mm through to 100mm and acceptable at the focal ranges bookending those. G

Woudl not continuous Af fix that. With X-T1 and 18-135 if I change zoom during a burst in continous AF mode due to it re-focusing constantly it absorbs and chance in focus caused by varifocalness. Another thing to check is do you have Focus priority set to Release or Focus. If its set to release it will just fire of as many shots as possible. IF you set it to focus it will wait until it thinks its locked before firing shutter. You get less shots in a burst and they stutter, but you get more keepers. Expereiemtn I would also advize trying this with Zone AF and possibly at F4 to give yourself more DOF and latitude for error. Not saying this makes it better than any other manufacturer, but I like how Fuji files look enough to have searched for workarounds, and teh above works well for me.

A lot of these photo's are the visual equivalent of T-Pain

The fact that it looks as though its the same one on the X-Pro2 when I tried a X-Pro 2 out recently I found the dial on that particular model to move a little too freely for my liking, it was also too big for my preference and I don't like the C functionality I think it over complicates it all. However and lets be honest here I am not a huge fan of EV at all, I prefer working in full manual majority of the time. Now that ISO dial is going to be free moving I doubt I will ever touch the EV knob again. But others like it so I am glad its there. I am happy for features I have no use for to be present. I get that others have a use for them. I am also humble enough to realize that many features I don't use now might be because of my own failings in understanding and as I grow as a photographer I may find I do use them. So whats the release date going to be eh. I am off to Canada on an amazing 3 weeks trip around Vancouver Island, the smaller islands the rockies and onakagen valley. I fly 8th August, do you think the X-T2 will be available by then. I am was originally thinking very very unlikely, but now we are starting to see images, and given June announcement. On the other hand the earthquake makes me wonder whether it might be further delayed?

Yes although in order to get bokeh with the 60mm you are probably going to shoot it wide open at 2.4 at which point the blades are not having any effect. At 2.8 its bokeh will be smoother than the 56mm and 2.8 However the 56mm and 1.2 its fairly nice Don't get me wrong I love the 60mm and I actually found in certain circumstances it focused faster than the 56mm on an X-T1 with all updates. This brings me to something that really annoys me about Fuji lens and people keep passing on secondhand information thats probably out of date. Probably 80% of my Fuji lens have been bought S/Hand and of those ALL of them were on original firmware and had not been updated. I think that a lot of people buy a lens try it, don't update firmware and then write it off as not good enough. Others read the original review from the old firmware and take that as gospel. Buy or hire the lens, update the firmware, use it and then you are entitled to comment on it. I really don't want to hear any more he said she said stuff, its often out of date and incorrect and will cause people to make incorrect buying choices and potentially waste there money. G

Well done for posting these been using them for about a year now and they are great. I find its also worth changing the name of the profile to include a number ie 0 Provia 1 Astia, if you want them to show up in the same order as they do on the camera in Capture 1. Just a little trick I have found useful. Lets hope that we can persuade Scotty to do some for the new Sensor X-Pro2/X-T2 G

Yup Fuji cameras have automatic functions, and they will work well enough in daylight applications. In low light you need to take manual control, and in fact in Daylight you are better off using amnual control as well as its better to expose for the highlights and then bring up the shadows in camera or in your RAW editor. However if you want sharp I would highly recomend using a shutter speed of 1/200 at least, because while you may not be moving your wife might be :

Woohoo locking dials and a video option on the drive dial happy camper here where do I place my advance order I am not massively happy about the new EV dial, but seeing as how I'll never use it I guess I will just deal with it

The 35 F2 is faster AF than the F1.4 but the F 1.4 is faster aperture, ie you will be able to blur backgrounds more. Not only that I find the rendering on the F1.4 to be nicer, at this point its a purely subjective thing, they are both sharp fantastically executed lens. The F2 is sligthly more clinical and the F1.4 is warmer, more film like and better for Portrait. They both excel at Street. Fast AF is not everything, also the 35mm has rarely let me down in most conditions. We are talking fairly small differences these days with a X-E2/X-E2s, X-T1 or X_T10 or X-Pro2 body when it comes to AF. All my favorite pictures in this system have come from the 35mm F1.4 including those of my daughter. I have one of her that is probably my proudest moment. However I don't share pictures of my daugther on the internet. I have jsut put a gallery of 90mm street images up in this forum and you can check out my flickr stuff here, have a look at the 35mm images. https://www.flickr.com/photos/10596811@N04/ Specifically have a look at Team Building a great image from my 35mm. Also my avatar of the lightbulb was shot with the 35mm.

50-140 - Fastest AF great for kids and sports, does very well as portrait. 55-200mm - Best compromize for ME it has great bokeh less busy than the 50-140, but not a lot in it, and better reach for travel and wildlife. AF is not as fast, but the update about 18months ago imoproved things significantly as did FW 4.0 and zone focus. 50-230.. best on price and has slightly longer reach. The 50-140mm will need the 1.4x teleconverter to match the other 2 lens reach and you can buy either of these lens second and for roughly the same price as the teleconverter. Have you considered teh 90mm its undeniably sharp and allows a lot of cropping, its lack of OIS won't matter as you seem to be using it outside so you can use high SS, it compresses like the zoom (mild) is fast Aperture and is very fast AF thanks to the Quad linear motor. YOu could pick up the 90mm and the 55-200 for the same prices as the 50-140. The other lens I would give serious consideration to if you are into portrait is the 35 F1.4 the F2 is getting a lot of hype right now but the F1.4 is a better portrait lens and I have never found the AF limiting on it. YOu could still buy all 3 lens I have recomended Shand for the price of the 50-140mm 10-24 18-55 55-200 35 F1.4 90 That is a hell of a kit.

http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/gallery/image/2253-see-you-in-a-minute-love/ Na the 90mm is not a street lens

The things that excites me most about the ISO and SS dial is that the lcok button look like the top part is black and the lower part is grey, suggesting to me that these are not latched. Ie click up dial spins freely, click down dial is locked. If that is the case I will be one happy camper, because the ISO dial annoys the f out of me currently, and is the only thing that makes me remove camera from my eye. If they have implmented this I will have all the controls I need at my fingers without needing to remove camera from eye. While they are at it, could they move the ISO read out in the EVF to the left hand side of the screen and the SS to the RIght hand side, it hurts my brain to turn the ISO knob on the left and look at the right hand side of the screen. G

John Dizzo, you are spot on, these threads are always train wrecks because its a subjective topic, I really think we are at the point where there is no better, just different. Its like arguing who is a better guitarist Jimi Hendrix or BB King there is no correct answer, and personally I love them both. Tom H I hear you about bikes. I still use my 25 year old Trek Antelope, welded steel bike for my daily commute. Its heavier than about 3 modern road bikes put together, but over the 16 miles I do a day I probably get a better workout than taking a modern roadbike out for a 50-60mile jaunt. Efficiency through inefficiency thats my motto I give it about 5 minutes before someone compares my love of old bikes to my love of Fuji. I don't use a fuji to slow down, I find it plenty fast enough these days but the X-E1 was painful. Humans are complex organisms we can hold several contradictory opinions before breakfast. G