gordonrussell76

Thats quite the wishlist, honesly I don't even recognize some of the things on there, so I am fairly sure I don't need them, but as long as they don't add massively to the price and I can turn them off then fill yer boots I have to say I am amazed by the hype around stabilization, don't get me wrong it seems very cool feature, but its just not something I am that excited about, as a rule I find that I value it only on Zooms where thanks to there slowness I sometimes need to use low shutter speeds and there I find the in lens Stablization to be most effective. I even have a theory that lens stabilization is better in my opinion than body stablization as it can be optimized for each lenses focal length and individual characteristics rather than a generic one size fits all. The main usage for stabilization for me is with legacy manual primes, but most of the time these are quite fast and bright so you can use high shutter speed. Also I find with fuji the high ISo files are very acceptable so I just don't see it being a massive issue for me. Again as long as it does not add significantly to rprice or affect IQ adversely in any way, great to have it, I just probably won't find much use for it. As long as it does not suck battery life and/or you can turn it off, then it will be great to have it just becuase camera ownership these days seems to have a lot to do with Top Trumps. I can see the attraction of being able to tell SOny and Olympus users that we have it, oh but wait, it probably won't be 5 axis and therefore our cameras will be totally incapable of taking any decent pictures at all, Fuji make sure you have 7 Axis stabiliation please otherwize I will never buy another of your products Toungue firmly in cheek for most of this post

I think its all a matter of generations. The X-E2, and X-T1 and funnily enough even though its barely 2 months old the X-T10 are all in the same generation ( I would have to include X100T in that as well. I think that they should all be brought up to same level. Lets fast forward 18months. Hopefully by that point we will have an X-Pro 2 an X-T2 and who knows maybe even a X-T20 and or X-E3. Ideally they should all be at relatively the same level of firmware performance in terms of AF and IQ etc, but they have different ergonomics, EVF stratgies etc and that is how they are delineated. I think the other delineation we are likely to see is Video. I would put money on the fact that the X-E2 v4 firmware will include the AF upgrades as that would be super beneficial and some other nice tweaks like D-Pad customizable buttons or direct focus point control, viewfinder options aligned, customizable Q menu etc, these are all refinements that don't really threaten the X-T1 or 10 but would improve a users life considerably. I think they will keep video the preserve of the X-T1 as its more of a hybrid style camera anyway, ie the X-T1 has 3 major advantages over the rest of the line up in terms of video 1) Full Manual control of video, 2) 24p(this is debatable depedingin on what your style is) and 3) Control of video via remote app. This last one is huge and has been the major contributer to me moving to X-T1 Why, well becuase all hybrid cameras in EU are artificially limited to 30 mins becuase of EU tax laws. The cameras if defined as Video cameras, woudl see a huge hike in price so manufaturers just bodge round this with a record limit. However I mainly use my camera to record gigs, on a tripod while I am on stage. Previously I used a hacked GH1 where I was able to remove record limit. The X-T1 offers me another option. I can have it set up to remote control, and I can start and stop recroding every song. This actually gives major advantages over the GH1, 1) The video files are smaller and I know that 1 file = one song no laboriously trolling through an hour long file to find one song 2) If the camera stops working and/or corrupts a file I only lose one song 3) I can check from stage that everyone in band is in shot. Often people move round and I once cut off the drummer head from an entire gig (some may say this was an advantage) 4) Touch screen focus. Ability to re-focus camera from stage as band naturally settles into comfortable positions. So for me the above was enough to move frmo my beloved X-E2, if they keep that delineation that gives them product seperation, especially when 4k hits. G

Firstly guy who posted above, I can't remember if the 27mm focus is external, but if its anything like the 35mm resting the whole camera on top of the lens is probably nott he worlds best idea. In terms of grips, I had the X-E2 with grip and Lensmate and loved the ergonomics of that setup. I now have X-T1 with medium grip and have found no need to buy a lensmate, the included thumb stop on the back of the x-t1 falls perfectly for me now becuase the extra hieght the grip adds to the base of the camera change my hand position so that it moves down camera body and thumb stop is suddenly in exactly the right place. Its interseting that Trenton who has same setup as my on X-E2 likes the bigger grip as I would describe myself as having small to medium hands as well. Maybe I will have to order it to try out from Amazon and I can return whichever one I don't like as I am stil in the return window for the medium grip. Hmm Mind you with my bag setup and I am already finding it harder to get the X-T1 in as opposed to the X-E2. There is even part of me thinking of just ordering the no grip bottom plate, because maybe all I need is the extra height to move my thumb position and then I will be golden and it will allow me to potentially more flexibility in which lens I can carry together. G

Its very interesting glass does play a major part in these decisions I love my fuji lens and the only lens I miss from M4/3 is teh Leica 25mm, don't get me wrong the Fuji 35mm is outstanding and in fact I would say a more versatile lens, but that 25mm just did nice things Interestingly for me being a big fan of M4/3 and having recently pulled the trigger on an LX100 only to send it back, the main advantage of M4/3 now for me is the video, Fuji can't touch it. However I like to have only one camera at a time I like the economy of knowing it intimately and given i often shoot with family in tow, I don't want to be overencumbered etc. That is just me though not knocking having loads of cameras the gear wh*re in me would love that So i gave up on the LX100 path and decided to wait for X-Pro2/X-T2 because I really hope that they will knock 4k out the park. they have obviously decided to focus on it and for me that could be a big problem for M4/3. I looked around a lot before buying into Fuji system I had a M4/3 system and sadly it was all stolen. Due diligence made me look to market before jumping back in and also changing requirement I had bough M4/3's at a time when video was my main goal, ownership of that system caused me to fall in love with still photography. So I looked round and narrowed it down to Sony, Pana or Fuji FF/APS-C or M4/3 ultimately I went with Fuji as the balance of IQ, colours, lens quality and size was best. I took the hit on video figuring that I would get a cheap (ish) Pana body to fill that gap. Now lets fast forward a year from now the X-Pro 2 is out, the X-T2 is out, and pretend I have the same decision again, it would be even easier. ALl the above advantages plus 4k. I am salivating at the prospect of a decent Fuji Video implementation. I know that 4k is not a panacea it will have to have decent bitrates, codec and hopefully avoid line skipping. However I just bought the 10-24mm lens and its such a great lens the thought of shooting 4k through that lens on a 20/24Mp sensor is just jaw droppping. I know a lot of you don't care about video, but I tell you something look at what the GH1 did for Panasonic, and the 5D mkii for Canon, I don't think that can be a bad thing, becasue we all want Fuji to make lots of lovely money so they can give us even more amazing cameras and lenses Sadly I think it will hit Panasonic worse than Oly, as Oly are catching up on video and have nicer bodies overall and then you will have Fuji/Sony and Samsung with very strong video offerings. G

If we are talking blue sky here, the lens I would love to see them make would be a 12-33mm F2.8 Constant, could be 14/16-33/35 if it kept price down. Basically something in that range. Wider than 18mm and top end at FF50mm equivalent or close ie 33mm which is closer than the current 35mm which is actually nearer to 53mm. This would give FF 18-50mm ) or 21/24-50) which for me would be an awesome range of focal lengths at decent light. I would love this lens. This would be for me a do it all walk around lens, soon as I get past 35mm I want a prime anyway as we are in portrait territory. I would have this lens the 56mm and the 90 and be a very happy little bunny. At the moment the only option to cover this range is 10-24 and a 35mm prime. Or 16-55mm but I don't need the 35-55mm range and the lens is MASSIVE, if they could do a 16-33 or 14-33 and have it the same size as the 10-24 constant aperture and with F stops marked on aperture dial like the 16-55mm I would buy it in a heartbeat. However they won't, why, because it would replace too many other lenses in there line up, if this lens was out a lot of people who have say the 10-24mm and 16-55 or 18-55 would probably happily trade in those two zooms for a lens that covered 14-35mm and then they could add in a 56mm for portraits That would be a hell of a 2 lens kit. You could always add a 55-140mm/55-200 or 90mm prime to round out to an amazing 3 lens kit depending on your preferences at the long end.

In response to the post saying that Fuji are just gouging us for more money for the Hand Grip I don't think so. I had one on my Fuji X-E2 (and thumbgrip) and I now have on my X-T1 and its a wonderful addition and I much prefer having it as an option rather than it being there built in. When I travel I have it on as I tend to use the 18-135 and 55-200 a lot and they are big lens and it makes a huge difference. However if I am going out in the evening and want a smaller camera, I can take grip off sling the 27mm on there and its back to being a very small discrete camera. Something you can't do with a GH4 or an EM1 Note on X-T1 the grip changes your hand position move is lower and this means that the built in thumb rest is more than adequate in my opionion negating the need for a lensmate. I think on the X-T10 though it would probably still be a very welcome addition. G G

Chaps One thing I noticed with Fireware 4 is in the AF sub menus the Release/Focus priority settings are both default set to release priority (ie for Single Point and for Continuous) This means the camera is prioritising release over focus accuracy. Might be worth checking this setting if you have not already as that might help with accuracy of focus. +1 as well to using CL mode. I used to always use that on my X-E2 as on the X-E2 in CH mode it would not re-focus between frames, so even in C mode on the front dial when in CH it would focus for the firts shot and then lock at that focus for remaining shots. I found that Cl was actually quite good for most applications good example my daughter going down a slide and running towards me, in CH mode I would get about 17 shots of which the first 4 or 5 were vaguely acceptable but nothing special. Same thing in CL mode I would only get 6 shots, but 5 of them were very sharpa nd one passable none were as badly focused as the CH mode. I would rather have less shots and them all be useable than lots of not very good shots. YMMV Now the X-T1 does re-focus between shots, I think the shot rate does go down slightly if you have focus priority on, but its not as slow as CL, so I think that CH plus focus priority is probably the sweet spot, but I need to experiment more. Most of the above was done with Single AF, not played with Zone AF and burst shooting yet. I have mainly be focusing on comparing it to X-E2 with a view to which camera I keep. G

Milandro I agree you intial comment was bang on point and very relevant, if you are buying the 60mm you need to seriously think about it in terms of the X camera you own. I have a small confession, much as I hate to admit it I have bought an X-t1, there was a warehouse deal as part of Amazon prime day where you got a further 15% discount on warehouse returned items so I got a heavily discounted X-T1 even further discounted and could not resist. The really nice thing about Amazon is I can return for full refund, so I am going to put it through its paces and see how things go. Why have I done this given how much I LOVE the X-E2, several reasons. 1) I bought a Lumix Lx100 for video, fantastic video, but I hated it, and I am trying to simplify my kit not add to it so I sent it back. I can live with the video from the X_trans sensor for my needs, but I can't live without Manual control over it. I suspect that the X-E2 firmware update will not include video as they are trying to demarcate the product. I think that is sensible as most X-e2 users would rather have better AF than Manual video (gun to head so would I) however with the points below it started to add up. 2) I wanted to simplify my rig from 27+35+18-55+55-200 down to just 27+35+18-135mm for travel (why no wide prime, maybe one day but I am striving for intimacy in my shots and 27mm IS my wide angle, and for the rare occasions I need something wider its normally cheesy holiday pics where the wide end of the 18-135mm should be perfectly adequate. The deal I mention above was for an X-T1 with 18-135 included. It was such a good deal that I think I will be able to sell X-E2 plus the 18-55/55-200mm lens and the whole thing will end up near enough cost neutral assuming the auctions go for same prices I have observed over the last couple of weeks. 3) 60mm prime I have been looking at adding either the 56mm or 60mm prime to my kit for some time. I prefer the look of the 60mm over the 56, I find that the 56mm can look incredibly clinical and very modern (which is great and I know you can process in post etc) and I just find the 60mm shots I have seen on the web intiate a gut response. The only thing holding me back is all the negative feedback on AF speed with that lens. If the X-T1 firmware 4 has resolved this, then it opens up that lens to me So none of the above is about the X-E2 being inferior, its just that a combination of financial opportunity mixed with changing requirements means the X-t1 is the better cam for me personally right now. If I won the lottery I would keep the X-E2 and in fact that 55-200mm as I love that lens, but I just don't use it enough to justify keeping it. I also have set myself a limit of 4-5 lens. I only ever take 3 out with me at a time or less, usually 2 day to day, and 3 when travelling. I don't want a lot of lens sat on a shelf gathering dust and mold that would be wasteful when someone else could be shooting them.

Lets not turn this into a shoudl the X-E2 be upgraded thread. I say this as someone who fervently wishes it were so, but there are several threads where my, Milandros and many others opposing (but repectful and considered) views are documented in some detial, some might say too much detail Just a thought and not having a go at anyone. G

Lots of good points in this thread, there is no RIGHT camera, only the one that is RIGHT for you. If you are worried about stealth then I think thats less about OVF vs EVF and more about Rangefinder Form vs SLR form factor. To that end I would recomend a SH X-E2 Its the right form factor, the EVF is less laggy than earlier models and the AF is improved, plus there is the outside chance it will be brought up to the standard of the X-T10 before the end of the year. The fact that the new prices are still viturally the same as the X-T10 makes me think that the firmware is coming otherwize Fuji would have dropped the price. I think they are willing to lose sales on the X-E2 for the next few months knowing that a) that will help X-T10 sales and when they do drop firmware 4 for X-E2 then it will give the sales a bump and they want the price to be at current level when that happens. I honestly believe that if X-E2 gets the firmware of the X-T10 it will be the best ILC for street in the fuji line up. ANother consideration here is lenses. Ie its great to get a Fuju X-T1 but for an example budget of £1000 in the UK SH you could probably get an X-T1 and 1 lens with a mix of a good deal or buying SH. If you get the X-E2 you will probably save enough for a 2nd lens, this is a big considerations, becuase if you are only going to get one lens the temptation will be to go for the kit (great great lens, not a bad choice) However if you have 2 lens this gives you options, Kit plus prime, two primes and save yourself the expense of selling the kit down the line. I would have a think about your overall personal lens roadmap and remember, its always better to have more glass and yesterdays camera than less glass and the latest camera. Becuase todays camera will be yesterdays camera in a year you can buy it then for less and at that point you have lots of nice glass to use it with and loads of lovely pictures already I mean lets look at X-T1 its a phenomenal camera, but the X-T2 will drop lets say Sep 2016 just over a year away, the X-T1 at that point will probaly be available for £350 odd on ebay, boom EDIT In interests of transparency, and while I still agree with the above I have a confession I just bought an X-T1 I got a fantastic deal on the kit with the 18-135. Ideally I would love to keep both it and X-E2, but reality is that I will probably sell X-E2. I am going to try both. I may still sell X-T1 because given teh deal it would still make the 18-135mm the cheapest I have seen it anywhere SH for a new lens, so watch this space.

Guido To clear it up, with X-T10 you can do everything you can with the X-E2 AND you can also use the EV dial in full Manual mode which you cannot (in the current firmware) do with the X-E2. The X-E2 is supposed to be getting a new firmware and one would hope this feature would be included, there are no gurantees, so if this is important to you then go X-T10 or T1 which you can also do this with if you don't want to use the dedicated ISo guide. Bottom line is that with most cameras there are many ways to skin a cat, or configure them. With imagination you can usually mold the camera to your desires. With something like the X-T1 there are just even more options to get you where you need to go, but not eveyrone needs them all or can justify the cost of that amount of flexibility. ONe not you mention ergonomics etc, be aware the X-T10 is smaller than the X-T1 and its also less wide than the X-E2, which means if you have big hands you will almost certainly need the additional grip on that camara

PS I prefer the ergonomics of using the EV button to fine tune exposure as opposed to the ISO anyway, as i like to have my left hand on the lens allowing for quick focus corrections etc, so this way I can leave both my hands where they are comfortable all the time, moving my hand back to ISO knob would slow me down and involve me taking my eye from EVF. To be honest having EV in M mode is the thing I am looking forward to most in the X-E2 although part of me wanders if we will get it. Mind you the X-T10 has it which I find amazing as it menas that the only differnece between the X-t10 and 1 now in my opinion is EVF Weather sealing Burst rate 2 of which for my photography I just don't care about.

Guido You can't go wrong with an X-T1 its a phenomenal camera. However in terms of grip I have the Handgrip that fuji sells and to be honest I prefer how it feels in the hand to the X-t1, go try some out. For me the main advantages of the X-T1 are Larger EVF ISO Dial Flip screen personally for stree the only one of these that you can't work around is the EVF. I have taken many shots at weird angles without flip screen, you just take 3/4 shots rather than 1 till you get something you like, and you get pretty good at guessing I also find I sometimes get some great 'accident' shots this way. its all creativity baby. THe ISO dial you can work around as well, I set my Aperture to desired setting say 5.6 Auto ISO limit 3200 and SS limit of 200/250 and shutter dial to Auto , the camera will then use Auto ISO to expose while keeping a nice fast SS speed and you can use the Exp dial to manipulate the camera to be brighter or darker to taste same as you would with an ISO dial in full M mode on the fuji. Off course with the X-T10 you can do the same as above but in full M mode, and with the coming firmware on X-E2 you will also hopefully be able to do this. Personally I prefer X-E2 form factor for street, there is less camera showing outside you hand when you shoot, you also have half your face uncovered so if you do make eye contact with someone you can non-verbally communicate with them more effectively and sometimes still get the shot. My 2 pennyworth, but the lens discussed above with a X-T1 you will 100% have a tehcnically veyr proficient Street cam. Its interesting I just got a LX100 for video and I was playing with it for stills and even with a Leica designed lens on it, it just can't hold a candle to the Fuji If fuji get 4k right in the next generation, they are going to have a hell of a product on their hands. G

I will be swapping my 18-55 and 55-200mm for a 18-135mm soon. Reason I now have a 27mm and 35mm So for all my favorite focal lengths I have a prime. I use the 18-55 and 55-200 for family and vacation and I just looked at the Exif data for the last year and I have taken 6 shots above 140mm on the 55-200 of which 4 were keepers. This tells me all I need to know. No I know that hte 55-200 will be sharper at 135mm than the 18-135mm because a) its a better lens alledgedly and 135mm is the middle of the formers zoom range and the far limit of the latter. However back to exif data again, and the number of photo's taken over 90mm on the 55-200 is 56 compared to about 1500 shots between 55mm and 90mm so for my personal use I am comfortable. I think the bottom line is thanks to Ebay the best thing to do with lens is buy then (ideally SH) use them in anger, review your Exif data and then change out the stuff you don't use for something you might. I am certain that the number of shots above 55m will double when I have the 18-135mm due to not having to change lens. G G

Get an X-E2 or X-T10 depending on whether yo uprefer SLR or Rangefinder form factor. X-E2 is less threatening looks like a point and shoot. Get the 18-55mm kit at 18mm the kit is better than the 18mm prime in terms of distortion and is only marginally slower, and for street that does not matter, see below. Get the 27mm its much better for street more inconspicous and yes its a tiny bit longer, but if thats a problem you can use the 18-55 above occasionally at 23mm (or lower if you want) The above will give you 18mm and 27mm both at F2.8 given a lot of street photographers want lots of DOF most (including myself) shoot at between F5.6 and F8 so the fact that these lens don't go down to 1.4 does not matter. Plus you will have the other focal lengths of the zoom until you are ready to get another prime. This would give you a very light (quite cheap if you get a SH X-E2) street kit, and down the line you could round out with a 35mm or 56mm to get a fast portrait/low light lens if you are really missing that. I have currently 18-55mm 27mm 35mm X-E2 oh and I have the 55-200mm but that is more for family use grabbing pictures of animals at the zoo with my daughter, candid portraits of her playing in the playground when I don't want to get too close etc. Not applicable to street. My next step is probably to sell the 18-55 and 55-200 and get a 18-135 as my family lens to save the faffing of changing lens and I don't seem to ever use my 200mm past about 140mm based on my exif data. So my next setup will be Street X-T1 27mm 35mm Family X-T1 18-135mm 35mm Both the above setups fit in a Tenba DNA 8 bag so i can travel light either when doing street or on vacation. EDIT Returned LX100 it was not for me. The Video was amazing, but I wanted a camera that I could shoot video on and might give some nice stills, I had a GH1 with Leica 25mm on it so I thought LX100 with a newer sensor and a Leica zoom might get me close. Nope not close to GH1 25mm setup and a million miles from Fuji shots, just did not cut it so got rid and have instead got an X-T1 as I got a deal on the kit with 18-135mm that was too good to pass up, so have edited above kits to reflect current setup. The only downside of this is that for street I now have a slightly more noticable camera, but given I will only be using it with 27mm and 35mm I think I can get away with it, it still look like an ol film camera, so fingers crossed.

Wow in one of your posts you compare Fuji to a Leica, even the most espensive Fuji is several thousand pounds cheaper, and to be honest full stop increments on SS is a sacrifice I am willing to make in order to not have to pay those prices and get the image quality that comes from my humble X-E2. Its just an amazing camera, could it be better yes. Would I go back to M4/3's no way. Hell when I bought my fuji i had funds availalbel thanks to an insurance claim to buy anything I wanted upto and including a Sony A7r. I checked out the following cameras Lumix GH4 Olympus EM1/EM10 Sony A7R Sony A6000 Fuji X-T1 Fuji X-E2 The fuji was the camera and glass that impressed me the most, I went with X-E2 as at the time the difference between features was not that great (how wrong did I get that ), and i liked the form factor better.

Given this announcement today that they are going to be focusing their business model more as component developer and manufacturer as opposed to end user products, then the decision to hold the sensor back from who are likely to be their most important B2B customers over the coming years strikes me as utterly stupid. The below might even result in them doinga u-turn on the 6 month lead before another company can use the sensor as surely if there main focus is B2B then the poor sales in thier camera divison can in no way offset that. http://www.reuters.com/article/2015/06/30/us-sony-issue-idUSKCN0PA0EG20150630

In all fairness that is how it worked before in Auto ISO plus A or S mode where EV has always worked (in this case by altering either the A or S depending on which mode you were in) Its does not tell you what the settings are until you half press. I have found that the EV Dial is most effective as a semi-permanent setting. I.e I know that most of the time the Fuji Auto ISO exposes between 1/3 and 2/3 of a stop brighter than I personally prefer. So I leave my EV at -2/3 and thats my starting point, for about 90% of shots all is good (I would rather bring up shadows than pull back highlights). This often saves me missing a shot by having to release shutter alter EV and then re-depress shutter. I tend to find that within a couple of shots within a location I have it dialed in and then really all I have to worry about is focus. If I am on the street I am usually at F5.6-F8 and pre-focused so I don't even have to worry about that G

Had you re-formated the card after installing the firmware. Fuji recomends you do this so that the Firmware is no longer on the SD card. I think if the firmware is still on the card it can mess with writing images to the card. Just a thought

Its 100% worth turning high performance on I have found on my X-E2 that the battery drain can be compensated by ensuring that you have Pre AF and AF light turned off. I find in the majority of my shooting these two things are not neccessary YMMV The AF light is only really useful in low light situations so I just turn it back on ad-hoc in those situations, although quite often I tend to slap on the 35mm and shoot wide open and that is normally enough to get the focus to behave. So its very rare that it gets turned back on. In terms of Pre-AF from the sounds of it the new Continous zone focus might well negate the need for it, but experiment. I turned it off after a couple of months using the camera and have never felt the need to turn it back on. YMMV

Ektachrome The whole processing problems thing is getting tired. There are only problems with LR and they are very slowly getting fixed. The alternative is you can go with any of the myriad alternatives as a post processing tool. I just don't get the attitude, the X-Trans in my opinion when processed well gives fantastic results. I am only interested in the quality of the end product, if I have to change my processing tool then so be it. Where do you draw the line. Oh I want better picture quality but buying a new lens is too much effort, actually buying a camera is too much effort, hang on taking pictures is too much effort. I really don't want to see progress and development of interesting new technologies to be limited by lazy people thank you, otherwize I would be writing this in ink and posting it. G

Patrick your latest poll about which features you would like to see in a last Firmware update. Good poll I have voted. There is a omission from the options though, Manual Video mode. I know that the general view is that none of the Fuji X-Trans are very good at video, but for my needs its adequate apart from the fact that the exposure jumps as I can't force it into a manual mode. To be honest I don't really want to buy another camera or system to get this as I said my needs are at the moment served by the X-E2 bar that one thing. I would love to see this in the final version of the X-E2 and others might like to have it. I think it should be in poll at least, then we would know whether its important to people. Granted I would need to be able to choose 3 optiosn in the poll as AF and EV working in Manual mode are still prioirty of video for me G

To answer the question about which bits are Sony which bits are fuji/toshiba the below might be helpful a sensor has components. If you look at below diagram the front illunminated side Sony probably make the LIght recieving substrate and surface and probably wiring. Fuji/Toshiba make the colour filter and on chip lens, this is why we have the X-Trans pattern as opposed to Bayer becuase essentially Fuji have customized it to create their own take on the sensor and given how everyone raves about Fuji colour, they obviously got it right. Its interesting that 2 of the sensors everyone raves about for colour X-Trans and the Sensor in the Leica M9 both were developed either solely or in conjunction with a old-school film manufacturer. X-Trans = partly Fuji, Leica = Kodak. Sometimes knowledge and experience counts even in a new field.

Ps I now officailly hate Wikileaks as that is probably teh reason they put it back just to make a point. Who know maybe the organice sensor will be finished given the extra time and they can bypass Sony Must be so frustrating for Fuji, I wander how many of the other times they were ready to release the X-Pro 2 and they have had to wait. It kinda explains the X-T10 and all the other X-Trans ii bodies that have been flooding out while they twiddle their fingers. Still it could be a positive as in the X-Pro2 if it has been ready to go for a while might already have a years worth of behind the scenes Kaizen out the gate

Patrick Na its all good you do an outstanding job and I was guessing you got it from a source, but thanks for the shout out. I am just happy that my powers of deduction had a good day for a change Eyesclouded I agree 100% I will still buy the Fuji and not the A7000 hell I bought the X-E2 instead of the A6000 and am very happy with that decision, why Colours Sharpness Lens Ecosystem Control System Unless the A7000 magically adresses all of those, Sony brings out identical quality APS lens to my current lens line up and offers me a 1 for 1 swap at no extra cost when i purchase the A7000 then I think its going to be the proverbial cold day in hell before I swap systems G