Dominique_R

One hour later, I managed to sort of make do with Super-Glue but it looks ugly, the eyecup is slightly slanted, the back glass of the viewfinder got smeared in the process and looks hazy around the perimeter, where some of the glue spilled over when pressure was applied to make the whole thing stick, and keeping my eye to the viewfinder is impossible for more than 10 seconds or so, because of the irritating/burning glue fumes/emanations that are apparently still coming out (for how long? we shall see). I have also managed to get ahold of the aforementioned blog page, where the guy says prominently that the fit of the JJC eyecups is not good and he doesn't recommend the product... Only wish I had seen this before! STAY AWAY from all replacement eyecups until Fuji provides a threaded mount, which should be par for the course on an expensive and so-called "expert" mirrorless camera!

I had never lost an eyecup, however I was lured into buying the larger model for eyeglasses wearers (JJC EF-XPRO2G). I thought they were the screw-on type, like on my Nikons, but no such luck. So, I took the original one off, it broke in the process... well, no big deal, as I was about to replace it by a bigger and better one... but I never could manage to insert it or have it stick properly, and of course there is nowhere on the web where one can find a tutorial for this thing, and the page of the guy's blog is gone... All in all, quite a disastrous experience so far, I would seriously advise people against attempting it, and I don't know what I will do now, with my original eyecup gone and my being incapable of putting a new one in... and I'm not the clumsiest person.

Dear all, First of all, please excuse the long message! On the X-Pro 2, there are many different settings for the hybrid viewfinder and the back screen, in terms of “what turns on when” and “what displays what and for how long”. I however cannot get the viewfinder and back screen to do what I'd like them to do, and after fumbling around for quite a while and not succeeding, I now resort to the expert knowledge of forum members. Rather than go through all the options, let me just explain what I'd like the viewfinder and back screen to do, then please tell me what settings to adopt in order to obtain this behavior: 1. When I switch on the camera, I want nothing to happen. The viewfinder doesn't activate, the back screen doesn't activate. 2. When I press the “Play” button next to the screen, I want it to display the latest recorded photo (ideally for 10 seconds but I'll accept another length of time if 10 seconds are not possible), then I want it to go black again. 3. When I bring my eye to the viewfinder, I want it to activate so that I can take a picture, and I want the back screen to deactivate simultaneously in case it was showing something. 4. After I've taken a picture, I want the viewfinder to deactivate as soon as I remove my eye from it, and I want the just-taken photograph to be displayed on the screen right away for chimping purposes, again ideally for 10 seconds, but I'll make do if not possible for that length of time. 5. When my eye is up to the viewfinder, if I remove it without taking a picture, I don't want the screen to activate by default, thinking I want to use it to frame the shot. In fact, and except for displaying previously taken photos, I want the screen to remain black at all times, except on the rare occasion when I deliberately choose to activate it to frame a shot (could be via a programmed function button or otherwise). I am probably very clumsy (not to mention dumb), but I haven't succeeded so far in getting the X-Pro 2 to do the above, although it sounds simple enough. I have almost managed it, but it still displays just-taken pictures by default in the viewfinder, which I don't like, instead of on the back screen. The viewfinder is thus kept busy for a couple of seconds instead of being instantly available to take the next picture (unless I half-press the shutter release, of course, but that button is quite sensitive and sometimes when I half-press it, I find myself actuating the shutter without meaning to do so, and that defeats the purpose). I will be eternally grateful if anyone can tell me how to achieve what I have described above. Many thanks in advance indeed. Dominique

I acquired the 90/2 a few days ago and I too was surprised not to be able to use the OVF with it: you pull the front side lever, and nothing happens, you remain in the EVF. Then I figured that the focal length was probably too tight for the frame lines to display in any kind of useful manner in the OVF, probably because magnification cannot change to make the frame more discernible. It's strange, though, because the OVF is perfectly usable with the 55~200... Maybe that will be addressed in the X-Pro2 OVF. At least, that would be a welcome improvement in my opinion. I've gotten sort of used to using the EVF with the 90/2 but I definitely like it a lot less than the OVF.

Merci Jérémy !

Hello Pierre! Let's meet one of these days!

I beg to differ: unless you're systematically aiming for surgically-clean pictures, you might be interested in, for example (and tha's just one example), playing with vignetting, leaving some in, etc. If the software, within its black box, cleans it for you without your being able to do anything about it, then you have to add your little bit of vignetting afterwards, in post-, and now, that is, as you said, "just an extra manual step". I'm not sure people who want software to do more for them are good customer targets for bodies and lenses of the X lineup. They'd probably be happier with point-and-shoots, as the camera itself then does everything and they don't even have to go to post-production.

Geez...! I cant' believe you guys who know better pay so much attention to the man... He is an enormous joke, who cares what he writes, honestly? Except maybe the absolute, absolute beginners <ho don't know better but will soon learn?

That's about all that can be said about the guy. He is a complete joke.

Hi guys (and gals), I'm Dominique, Nikon user from my days in high school (that would be the 1970s), converted to Fuji two years ago when I decided to buy an X-Pro 1 and a few lenses to make up an alternate, lighter kit designed mainly for summer vacations, when one is less prone to lugging around a quantity of heavy gear. I am quite happy with my Fuji gear, I wait expectantly for the X-Pro 2 to be launched, but I retain my Nikon/Zeiss gear (with even a small dose of Sigma) which I keep using with as mcuh pleasure as always. Born and bred in Paris where I lived for most of my life (except for some time in the US), I now share my time between the city of Lyon, second largest in France, and Brittany. I like to define myself as a "heritage photographer", which means that my main interests are towards landscape, old stones, but also wildlife and a few selected sports (eventing and classic yacht regattas). I have enjoyed reading Fujirumors since I became an X photographer (and even before), and so it makes sense for me to also participate in the forum.

Hi all, I have read with interest many threads in this section about photo bags, each one fancier than the next. Well, I'm certainly not lacking interest in those specialized photo bags (for my Nikon gear, I own a large, wonderful Kiboko and a smaller Manfrotto), but as regards my Fuji kit, it sort of felt natural for me to stay away from those great products that scream "photo bag! steal me!", and rather select a nondescript, unobtrusive, everyday bag. Honestly? OK, I have to admit that I first fell for one of those Billingham trendy things, but strangely enough, considering the praise they usually receive, I was not at all convinced by the quality, the way the various components adjusted, and the like. So, the Billingham was promptly discarded and now sits untouched in a closet in the garage. Then, I went all the way along Nondescript Avenue and simply bought an Eastpak backpack, in leather (two, in fact: a black one, a light tan one), and then a cloth Timberland one, slightly smaller (photos below are not to size). All of those are great, do a wonderful job of containing the body in the front pocket and the lenses and other small accessories in the main pocket. The only thing to keep in mind is that you have to procure soft leather pouches for your lenses, so they don't rub and scratch against one another while in the backpack's main compartment. Those can be obtained very inexpensively on eBay from Chinese vendors. Beware, though: there are good ones, and bad, ugfly ones. Any of those backpacks hold very comfortably a 16/1.4, a 23/1.4, a 35/1.4, a 56/1.2 and a 90/2, not to mention a 55~200 zoom when needed, and there is still plenty of extra room for a bottle of water, a sandwich, a sweater or windbreaker... not to mention the back pocket which is perfect for a book, a Kindle, an iPad or even a notebook computer. The backpacks are light, very discrete, they don't advertise their contents, they have been well used by now and therefore they look suitably worn (and they seem quite durable), and they are, in my opinion, by far the best option to carry a light mirrorless kit. The only thing they're missing is the possibility to attach a tripod, but for when I want this, I have bought two Billingham leather straps which I can jury-rig to the shoulder straps of any backpack, so as to secure the tripod horizontally under the backpack. It's worked just fine a couple of times so far. I hope this feedback can help others who might be interested in the "non-photo bag" option. The only drawback I can see is limited protection against rain (even though that remains to be tested, maybe it isn't so bad), but here again one can improvise, either with a plastic trash bag, or with the rain cover from a genuine photo bag: the one that comes with my Manfrotto backpack will do just fine.

Hi all, Just a quick word to let you know that I sometimes use my two Zeiss manual focus primes, which originally come with ZF2 mount for Nikon bodies. I use a Novoflex adapter like this one: It is a bit costly to acquire but it works superbly well, and the iris ring, altough a bit cumbersome and not super-precise, woeks satisfactorily. And of course the Zeiss optical quality does not leave much to be desired. The two primes I have are the Distagon 15mm f/2.8 and the Apo-Sonnar 135mm f/2 (which makes a stunning 200mm telephoto on the smaller sensor of the X-Pro 1).

Hi all, Behind the intentionally provocative title lies a genuine frustration of mine, which is the following: I have a Nikon kit, and a Fuji X-Pro1-based kit. I use Lightroom (5.7) to develop my Fuji RAWs. Because of the whole Adobe extort subscription scheme, I had to quit using Camera RAW to develop my Nikon RAWs, and so I also use Lightroom for those. Now, when I process a Nikon RAW, Lightroom gives me, in the Lens Corrections tab, the option to apply corrections based on the lens that was used to take the picture: This is true for Nikkor lenses, but also for compatible thirs-party lenses such as the MF Zeiss I use. I can "Enable profile corrections" or not, or only some of them. For example, for a given photo, I may choose to leave vignetting correction alone because I find it nice to keep the vignetting, or some degree of it. Now, when I process a Fuji RAW, I don't have that option. When I try to to to the same tab, this is what I see: I understand that the lens corrections are "built into"... the Lightroom software itself? the RAW file? Well, they're built into something anyway, and applied automatically. Good. One less thing to do. Yes, except that one of the reasons we guys use Fuji X bodies is because we like to retain as much control as possible, if and when we want to apply it, and the ability to do everything manually every once in a while if we feel like it. In fact, we don't mind being given more control. Right? On another forum, I was told by very knowlegeable people that it was not Fuji's fault, but Adobe's choice, and that they do that for all mirrorless cameras. I wonder why, and I wonder if there are other X users like me, who'd like to simply have the choice: . either to have corrections applied automatically "in the black box" to their photos, . or to select manually which corrections should be applied, to what extent, with the ability to assess the effect in real time as the correction is applied and adjusted, just like what happens with DSLR RAWs. This forum (and Patrick's great rumor site) is apparently listened to by Fuji, and if Fuji could be persuaded that the way Adobe are doing it doesn't make much sense compared to the way Lightroom handles DSLR RAWs, then maybe Fuji could help convince Adobe to change policy... What do you think?

I can never do without an OVF, therefore I will opt for the X-Pro2 (this from the very happy owner of two X-Pro1!).