quincy

I prefer the second one

I really like the look of it. It's not comparable to the images from our new digital cameras regarding sharpness or color accuracy, but it reminds me of my youth.

Great! Did you scan them?

I like that. Great colors. Was there much post processing?

Hi Sebastian, I've split this up a bit: There is no APS-C Model of the 85mm yet. As far as I know, the gold ring lenses were earlier versions, before Samyang unified their design (black plastic barrel with red ring). You can also see this in older discontinued lenses like the 800/8 reflex. The gold ring version has 9 elements in 7 groups with one aspherical and a 8-bladed aperture, exactly like the new one, with weight and size also being pretty similar. I can't guarantee it, but i think it's the same lens in a new package. Samyang has 4 lenses designed for mirrorless cameras so far: 12mm F2.0 NCS CS, 21mm F1.4 ED AS UMC CS, 35mm F1.2 ED AS UMC CS and 50mm F1.2 AS UMC CS. Me too. The longer the focal length of the lens, the less you gain (size and weight saving) by having a mirrorless system. The 85/1.4 for Canon EOS is (diameter x length in mm) 78x75 and 540 g, while the Fuji X version is 78x101 and 610 g. The adapters are usually heavier than the difference in lens weight, which comes from the integrated "adapter" (which is just a longer lens barrel in the back). Fuji's own 90/2 is 75x105 and weighs 540 g. It has autofocus, but it's one stop slower. So far I've used adapters from K&F Concept and Fotodiox, both being very good (polished, dirt free, good material - chrome plated brass, play-free). If you want a higher class of adapters you could get those from Novoflex, they are designed and manufactured in Germany. But it's up to you if you want to spend that much money. Adapting DSLR-lenses will weigh more and be bigger than buying a lens manufactured with the fuji-x mount, but you'll have a larger selection.

Hey milandro, it is indeed the imperial whitworth system. I got myself a whitworth thread template and measured it. It's a 1 5/8 inches thread with 30 turns-per-inch (and I found someone who probably can build me a replacement for the inner part of the tube. We already have the right threading dies, now we need an additional gear for his lathe.) sooo... maybe at the end of the week... Hi mario, thank you very much for your input! The lens itself does not feature a focusing mechanism and no focus scale, but the macro adapter should be able to take over this part (i hope). You are right, I need to check the infinity focus. as long as it needs to be further away than the minimum lenght of the adapter I'm fine. Those prices seem to be normal for this lens. All I found were sold for ~$500 unadapted and damaged, the pristine ones started at about $1000, and the adapted ones start at $1300. I have no Idea what's so special about this lens apart from it being a bit rare, but maybe we'll soon see some images

Hi Sebastian, do you want the lens to be X-Mount natively or do you want to adapt one? The native lenses in that focal lenght range are a bit limited in numbers anyway: - Samyang 85mm F1.4 AS IF UMC - Samyang 100mm F2.8 ED UMC Macro - HandeVision Iberit 90mm / 2.4 - Fujinon XF 90mm F2.0 R LM WR - MOG Trimagon 95 f2.6 - MOG Trioplan 100 f2.8 If the Fuji 90/2 is too expensive, the Meyer Optik Görlitz ones will also be too much. That leaves you with the two Samyangs and the HandeVision. I haven't heard much about the HandeVision lens, but I've heard many good things about the Samyang lenses. However, since one is a portrait lens and the other is a macro, both probably won't really be optimized for infinity focus, so you should try that at home and see for yourself if they are good enough. If you want to adapt a lens, keep in mind that there are still no active adapters for fujifilm cameras available, so the lens you choose should have a manual focus ability (which you wanted anyway) and a manual aperture(!). The lens adapters with built in aperture probably won't make you happy, since the new aperture is not in the right place and will produce vignetting. This takes out all Sony E-Mount lenses, Canon EF-Mount, as well as many new Nikon F-Mount ones and the newer Pentax lenses (DA).

Short update: I've ordered the Fotodiox M42-FX helicoid adapter and a M42-M39 ring. however, the M39 thread does not fit. Neither can I put the lens into the helicoid adapter, it's too tight inside. So it's neither M39 nor M42. Any Ideas? By the way: I've unscrewed the front part of the adapter with the M42 thread on it, and its connected to the inner part of the tube. So if I get myself a replacement for this part (manufactured), I should be fine (if the flange focal distance of this lens is the same as M39/M42).

For this specific task I'd think about the Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro. But you should know that it has an electronic aperture control only, despite being full manual for everything else. So you would need a Canon body to close the aperture once to the desired value. I'll try to think about something else...

Hey milandro, thanks for writing! I also at first thought it might be a projecting or enlarging lens, but the wollensak lenses i found that are built for enlargers have written "ENLARGING RAPTAR" on the front ring. Maybe they left that off in later versions? I'll measure the thread again, and then I'll try the M39->M42->helicoid->fx adapter combination.

Hey guys, last week I got a vintage lens (by chance). It's a Wollensak Raptar 50mm f/1.5. I've started reading a bit about the company (located in America) which was building lenses from 1902 to 1972 in rather small numbers, and the raptar seems to be one of their more uncommon lenses. The lens itself is in very good shape. No scratches, neither on the body nor the glass, no fungus, not much particles inside (actually i can only see three small dots that shouldn't affect image quality at all). It was a bit dirty on the outside, but after cleaning it looks like new. The aperture looks good, has 15 blades, does not stick and is easy to move. I've already done some test shots with the lens hand-held in front of the camera. The results look promising, apart from the boring subject and the light leaking through my fingers onto the sensor, reducing contrast. So I'd like to adapt it to X-Mount. And here comes the first problem: The lens itself does not have a focusing mechanism. I think I can solve the problem by using one of these adapters: http://www.kipon.com/en/articledetail.asp?id=76 They have a built in helicoid that can move the lens up to ~10 mm away from the "infinity focus" position, so I should be able to focus closer. It won't be macro, but at least a "normal" range, I hope. However, I didn't find a solution for the second problem myself: I don't recognise the mount of this lens. I've got a picture attached below. The thread seems to be about M41. It's definitely NOT M42, I've tried that already. Does anyone know what mount this is, and what flange focal distance it has? Because only by knowing the flange focal distance, I can modify one of those Kipon adapters (probably the M42 version) to accomodate the lens. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks for sharing! I don't think I would buy it, but it's nice to see.

If it were a normal feature of the lens (fuji lenses, especially the cheap ones like the 18-135 or the newer 23/2, 35/2, 50/2 rely heavily on postprocessing in software), the lens modulation optimizer should correct it, at least a bit. If it does not, the lens probably has a problem. On the other hand, such high clarity levels are not normal either. Is the white wall image straight from camera? And have you tried other focal lengths?

I searched flickr for night shots done with the 18-135, and I didn't find anything that resembles your problem. As Vidalgo said, it might help to see in camera jpegs. Maybe you could put one of the RAW files back on a sd-card and put it in the camera to create two jpegs via the built in RAW converter, one with the lens modulation optimizer turned on, and one without.

Do it! (And share pictures)

I'm sorry to tell you that the whole lens needs to be white in order to charge more. However, welcome to the forum, and you've already learned something

The Red one goes faster

Possible but hard, because it's subjective to a certain degree. To do this in a reasonable manner, we would need someone to acquire all fuji lenses (and the zeiss ones too), and then test them all in one go, with the same procedure, with multiple targets and lighting conditions. I think we tried to rate them on this forum once, but I can't remember where that was. The conclusion was roughly this: - All the XF zoom lenses are pretty good, with the 55-200 being the slowest, although it got a lot better with the X-T1 update and became really good with X-Trans III sensors (just tried this a few hours ago) - don't know about the XC lenses - the prime lenses got better with every new release. The new compact F2 trinity is said to be very fast, the 90/2 too. - 60/2.4 is said to be the slowest focussing lens (but it's a macro), the 35/1.4 was slow once but got better with the newer firmware / newer bodies. (both are the first x-mount lenses, together with the 18/2) - 56/1.2 is not the fastest lens, but ok. the 56/1.2 APD can't use phase detection and is said to hunt focus a lot, but I think that's acceptable for such a special lens. - haven't heard anything bad about the other primes. All in all, I don't see that older lenses don't keep up with the newer bodies, their performance rather improved by new software and new sensors.

well, I've thought about it....

Hey guys, I'm working on an update concerning - Fuji XF 50 - Fuji MK 18-55 - Fuji MK 50-135 - MOG Primagon 24 - MOG Trioplan 35 - MOG Trioplan 50 - MOG Primoplan 58 - MOG Primoplan 75 - Veydra Mini Prime 12, 16, 19, 25, 35, 50 & 85 I guess it will take me a couple of days. By the way: I've had a short look at the design of the veydra 12, and it doesn't seem to be a copy/brother/sibling of the samyang 12/2.

I guess I like you

And yet another new lens from Meyer Optic Görlitz: Trioplan 35 f2.8 (kickstarter)

Interesting... Just after I got the X-T2, I noticed that I was always carrying a whole bag of stuff with me. X-T1 with the samyang wide-angle and a quick release tripod plate, tripod, remote relase, the 27 in case I want a closer shot, the 55-200 + closeup-lens in case there's an opportunity for a macro shot, for which I might also need the ring flash, and of course the X-T2 with the 100-400 attached, and then the teleconverter... etc. etc. One day I thought I'll just take one camera and one lens, and that's it. So i took only the X-T2 with battery grip, teleconverter and the 100-400, no bag, simply slung around my shoulder. I was out the whole day from sunrise to sunset, didn't get tired and it was overall a much more pleasing experience than before. Anyway, I don't think it's about limiting the gear you have, just about limiting the gear you take with you on each occasion.

I'd love to have different frame lines, too. Good Idea.

Good to hear that you found something that fits you! How is the image quality at the long end, and how do you like the ISO-performance of the newer µ4/3 sensor? (Honest question, I know someone who's searching for a small lightweight holiday-camera with wide-angle AND a lot of reach). Oh, about AF/controls/ergonomics : I think you left Fuji a few weeks too early concerning those problems. If the X-T20 is to the X-T2 what the X-T10 was to the X-T1 (I have both, T1&T2), none of it should be an issue anymore. But since you left for size and price too, I don't think you have anything to regret.