flysurfer

I don't see any distortion here. Just volume deformation. As our friends at DxO put it: "In practice, the principles of optical geometry dictate that it is impossible to maintain both straight lines and volume consistency."

Depends on the camera one uses. The X-Pro2 can't do it. Yet.

I will only buy the Hello Kitty version.

That's a way to actually introduce a difference between imported Lightroom A-WB and Camera A-WB, because WB Shift is not recognized/applied by Lightroom upon import. However, that difference is exactly what the OP wants to avoid in Lightroom. Of course, WB Shift a great way to change the color tint of SOOC JPEGs before or after the fact. You can read more about it in my ancient book on the X-Pro1, but it certainly won't solve the OP's problem. Btw, the OP could use a warmer WB setting (Kelvin or a preset) in the camera, as color temperature settings are imported and applied in Lightroom. In any case, as long as the same film simulation presets are applied, Lightroom renderings don't look warmer or colder than in-camera JPEG renderings. I have just checked it with the X-Pro2. Sadly, Lightroom's settings are less accurate with older cameras (EXR I & II), but that only affects grading (particularly shadows), not WB.

Lightroom and in-camera WB and colors should always look the same as long as the same film simulations are applied. Of course, it's easy to adjust WB and colors "to taste" in Lightroom with the two sliders for color temperature and tint.

It's so much worse. There's a button on the touch-screen that you can touch to turn it off or change the mode.

Asking DSLR converts (who often claim that their DSLR AF performs much better than new current Fuji X AF) about how many days or weeks of actual EVF training they have put behind themselves in order to tune their brain, their reflexes and their intuition to respond to an electronic live view display (instead of the familiar OVF), the response is usually sobering. In other words: practice, practice, practice.

It has never been about Canon or Nikon. It's about Sony, Olympus and Panasonic.

Normally, Exp. BKT should always use CH. At least it does on my X-Pro2. With this camera, it's a great way to quickly get two handheld RAWs with 4 EV exposure difference in quick succession (only 1/8s lag between the two). Using the ISOless sensor and merging the 2 RAWs in Lightroom to form a HDR DNG, this method leads to RAW files with up to 7 stops of additional DR, which pretty much solves every "normal" exposure problem. Sadly, the X-T1 doesn't do ± 2 EV bracketing (only ± 1 EV), so this method is limited there.

That's what most mirrorless users apparently do these days. As a result, Fujifilm's market share is capped at a niche level. This limits prospects of long-term profitability and growth.

Airplane and ES doesn't sound like a good idea. Airplanes tend to move fast, so rolling shutter could be an issue. That said, it should work from greater heights, but I doubt that the ES is really faster than the MS in burst mode, at least in the X-T1. 8 fps is the limit, and exposure BKT should work at 8 fps. At least it does in my X-Pro2.

I actually remember a thread in some X forum where someone identified the firmware version markers with an hex editor.

Indeed: the lower the end, the more state-of-the-art the concept. Lower-end cameras like the X-A1/2, X-M1 offer custom settings that allow users to store a complete camera configuration and quickly switch between pre-configured settings. The higher up you go, the more manual switching is necessary. Fujifilm's cameras are strange that way. They are like Boeing building a new high-tech aircraft without a modern glass cockpit. Instead, Boeing would install a retro cockpit with 30 year old clock dials that requires 2 pilots and 1 flight engineer to operate. No airline in their right mind would buy such a plane. And yet, when we ask Fuji users why they chose Fuji X over other brands, the typical answer isn't that they bought the camera despite its outdated retro controls. No, they say that they bought it because of them. Obviously, those who buy retro cameras like retro controls. But this puts Fujifilm in a niche. The issue is: What about the majority of users who don't appreciate retro controls, but who would still like to own an advanced mirrorless APS-C system with a full range of high-quality lenses and superior image quality? So Fujifilm might want to think about ways to satisfy both groups: the retro loving niche and the majority of other users. How? By implementing smart options that allow users to bypass the manual retro controls and use X cameras like other modern cameras.

Of course not.

It's certainly possible. You need an old unsigned beta firmware version that doesn't do a version check and replace your current firmware with this beta. Then update the beta to any older production firmware version you actually want to go back to. That said, Fujifilm might not be willing to send you a copy of an unsigned beta firmware.

ISO BKT is Single Shot JPEG-only (= pretty useless).

There is most certainly no fan, but I have one defective 18-55mm kit zoom that tends to vibrate pretty noisily when its AF goes downhill.

Business as usual.

Not sure why anybody would use an UHS-II card in an UHS-I card slot. Sounds like a potential source for errors if the card's UHS-I emulation mode is faulty. I have also documented a few problems with Lexar 2000x cards in UHS-II cameras, which can cause errors with some of my cameras or even particular card slots in multi-slot models. OTOH, Lexar 2000x is the fastest UHS-II I have tested, so I like to use it as long as it works in my particular camera or slot. In any case, good luck having the camera reconfigured.

With Auto-ISO set to a ceiling of 12800, it most certainly does.

At least as long as the shutter speed doesn't exceed 4 seconds. Btw, on the X-Pro2, program shift is available through the front command dial.

As I just said, program shift is indeed a poor man's option to circumvent the missing aperture setting via command dial. OTOH, few people seem to appreciate Program AE.

It's certainly looks like a strong contender.

Sadly, setting the aperture with a command dial only works with XC lenses and the XF27mmF2. You can use the command dial for program shift, though.

Mine does.