jerryy

Thank you. It is a single frame.

You seem to like challenges. Try looking into a dew heater system. Astronomers and astro-photographers use them to keep dew and frost off of their telescopes, cameras and electronic gear. You can build your own or buy commercial versions, but in either version, check to make sure the components can handle those types of temperatures, more of making sure you get industrial-grade rather than lightweight-grade. If there is any moisture in the the air in the lens, it will condense and freeze, you risk shattering the aperture blades or destroying the motor. Also the lubricants will be more like dried goop than lube. So you will need to keep the lenses warmer. Anything that will help you operate the camera remotely such as Raw Studio or web-cam software will make life easier, at those temps you could damage your skin or eyes or hands trying to look through the view finder. So extra cables because they tend to break instead of bend when that cold. Perhaps buy or build a small pin-hole camera and take it as a backup. Fewer moving parts. They still work and film does not mind cold as much. Have fun and come back safely.

(open thread) Carl Sandberg said that "The fog comes on little cat feet". Sneaky, sneaky, sneaky. Sneaky stuff that fog.

For what it is worth, there is a person that goes by the name of Morris that has some approaches for birds in flight using long lenses on a X-T3 that may be of some help: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1594539/0 He is using a three box zone focus with center switching on continuous mode ... there are several pages in that thread with lots of discussion.

It sounds like either focus check or focus zoom is being activated. There are several ways this can happen; if the touch screen focusing is active, AF + MF is active, the menu setting for focus check and focus zoom are turned on, the back dial is set to turn them on and your thumb is close to the dial when pressing the shutter button — you might touch it without realizing it.

Yikes! that is true. I was aware of the micro four thirds to e mount adapter and glancing at this one (instead of looking closer) thought this was using the same trick to make it work. Sorry!

Yeah, it pretty much confirms that this is the type of adapter you are looking for, but not much else. This adapter is sold by different companies, BH Photo, Adorama, eBay, ... but it seems to be one that people try to find and then do not comment about afterwards. At least it seems that way going by various comment threads. The manufacturer, Kipon, builds a lot of adapters, so you might give it a try, if it does not work, send it back.

There is stuff like this out there: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1455775-REG/kipon_4_3_fx_adapter.html/reviews I do not know how well it works, I suspect you will get a lot of vignetting. As Ned mentions, in your searching you may come across a lot of m42 stuff. That is very much still available because it is one of the standard sizes used in astronomy / astrophotography gear.

You might get some use out of these: https://www.darktable.org/resources/ There is a manual, a book and some video tutorials.

Have you considered using a USB card reader? It usually will be faster to pull the card and use operating system to move the images onto the hard drive.

It snowed ...

As I said, I hope that I am wrong. This is why people who work on computers and other types of electronic gear wear grounding straps while doing so. They have piles of dead motherboards, memory and other chips to remind them of why. In the winter, when the air is very dry, a static charge can quickly and easily build up on your shirt, coat, clothing. While the camera is shielded on the outside, if the camera is turned on with the lens removed, there is not as much shielding on the inside. The battery is the ground ( negative terminal ) and the sensor is a pathway surface to that ground. If the camera is off while the lens is removed, there is no path to ground, so the static electricity stays static and does not discharge.

Not static like radio static but static electricity. It is the bane of electronic equipment, it can easily fry a circuit, it is like a lightning strike. Since you say it is still happening, your sensor may have gotten zapped. p.s. I hope that I am wrong about this.

That looks like a bit of static discharge which can happen in the dry times of winter when clothing rubs against each other. The camera being on while the lens is off would make the sensor an easy pathway for the static to move to ground. If this not still happening then the sensor should have recovered.

Does it do this when you are looking through the view finder? If so, you probably have touchscreen focusing turned on in the Menu Settings. Try turning that setting to off and use the joystick to choose the focus point.

This review shows it working both in auto mode and manual mode: https://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play;_ylt=AwrC5rIYNPdfE3kAww77w8QF;_ylu=c2VjA3NyBHNsawN2aWQEdnRpZAMEZ3BvcwMx?p=x-s10+focus+bracketing&vid=dd195aae617676fe8b1068c69015c47e&turl=https%3A%2F%2Ftse3.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOVP.vJa8OuYo8h8_ZyQohZvtKgEsDh%26pid%3DApi%26h%3D225%26w%3D300%26c%3D7%26rs%3D1&rurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DA4XoUESLAIo&tit=Fujifilm+<b>X<%2Fb>-<b>S10<%2Fb>+Everything+you+wanted+to+know+(continued)&c=0&h=225&w=300&l=1153&sigr=xZXXwzvS_aYv&sigt=MtCi7JAEwr16&sigi=l5T4eEu5PMmQ&age=1605550040&fr2=p%3As%2Cv%3Av&fr=ipad&tt=b It starts around the 4:45 time mark. He seems to follow along with what is listed in the manual. Perhaps you could contact him for more specific instructions.

This video by David Hoult discusses the relationship between dof, step and frames that mdm mentions: He is using a X-T30. According to the X-S10 manual, your camera has an automatic feature where everything is calculated for you once you, of course, get all of the menu choices properly set up. That option sounds like quite a boon for macro shooters! http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-s10/taking_photo/bracketing/ What happens when you try that?