flamidey

On the long end, the p1000 is a 3000 mm FF equivalent. Longest native lens is the 100-400 mm. Couple it with the TC 2x you get 800mm, so 1200 mm FF equivalent. You'd get much higher quality than the pxx00 with that combination but far from the focal length. You will never get such a versatile zoom range in one (or even 2) lense(s) on the Fuji system.

Mode B = déclencher et maintenir appuyé pour commencer la prise, relacher quand le temps de pose requis est atteint. Mode T = réglage du temps de pose par la molette arrière.

Auto focus definitely better. Image quality should not be visible on real life images. No B&W in camera fine tweaking on the Pro2 nor the latest film simulations. If you shoot RAW and don't need advanced focus modes and fine tuning, Pro2 should be fine.

I'd love it on the X-Pro 3 for sure. Could be a firmware upgrade on the V too... (And I was wrong, auto-iso is accessible on the front dial of the X-T3 as well. )

Try setting the Shutter dial to T. I don't believe any Fuji allows you to switch between Auto ISO modes with the front dial (through C), only cycling through ISO values.

Is that permanent ?

Hi, Go to Menu / AFMF / Instant AF setting --> AF-S

From what I see, if there is a difference, it is not perceptible.

Your drive is probably formatted with a file system that doesn't support files larger than 4.3GB. On mac I think you need Extended Journaled as a format. See here : https://discussions.apple.com/thread/250796640

Can you try to connect your workstation through Ethernet and see if there is a dramatic change?

Yes + Eterna bleach bypass

i declare that it is perfectly usable as I use it daily with a decent speed and no bug.

Is you PC ethernet wired to you router or in wifi ?

Quick test on the X-Pro 3. For 6 files (3 lossless compressed RAW + 3 JPEGs), from start to finish including connection : 1m 40 seconds. Never had a crash either. How are you setup? What kind of router do you have?

None that I know of. What symptoms do you have?

My experience is that it is slow. Not buggy though, once properly setup.

Bad quoting, my bad. Although I DID mean to quote your ISO comparison. THAT makes absolutely no sense to me. By a wide margin. My experience is that XT3 outperforms XT2 in High ISO in all circumstances.

What are you talking about? Care to give us some examples? Cause that's absolutely not my experience.

Did you try a long press?

Well, even if we assume it was a 100 ft distance, he'd still get over 100ft DoF. I agree the 18-135 is better stopped down but not to the point of having an 88mm f5/6 shot completely blurry like that.

Just a quick calculation. At f 5.6, with a subject at 300ft, you get focus from 105ft to infinity. At f8, you get focus from 85ft to infinity. It would have had to be a serious focus error for it being a depth of field problem.

You'll need to sacrifice one of the 7. Say you want to swap C1 and C2 and sacrifice C7 1. Apply C1 2. Don't change anything. Record it as C7 3. Apply C2 4. Save as C1 5. Apply C7 6. Save as C2 And so on for C3/4 and C5/6

By selecting the manual focus option on the focus selector, you will only alter the way autofocus works. That means you retain all other automated functions of the camera such as ISO, aperture and shutter speed, unless you choose to go into manual mode for any of them. So yes it's exactly like an old camera regarding manual focus. The X-Pro1 will help you manually focus through some nice features (focus peaking, focus point zoom) for example. Have fun!

I'm no expert in Leicas but I believe half stops in speed dials are only possible on mechanical Ms and then only at the cost of total lack of precision, because you're actually exploiting the mechanical gap between steps...