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flamidey

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Everything posted by flamidey

  1. Hi, I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LST8MJN/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_YN8HJDY9DW42FSYR61XW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It can be powered through USB or with a universal DC adapter. It works fine.
  2. there are many possible explanations... it's a bit hard to help without seeing some examples and have more info. First thing I would check in manual focus is the diopter adsjustment for the EVF.
  3. I got it to autofocus so I would say it's possible. It has to be in Continuous focus (and/or eye detect) AND have the pre-focus option enabled.
  4. Received the dummy, works perfectly, no overheating or anything. I power it with a Belker adjustable DC power adapter. It is set to deliver 9V. The link to the dummy on Amazon US is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LST8MJN?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1
  5. Ordered high quality cables, we'll see how if it solves the problem.
  6. - USB connection: not working from a USB 3 hub connected to a USB 3 port, not working with some cables, but more or less randomly (will work sometimes with a cable but not all the time) - Webcam Software: not recognizing the camera, not showing up in anything else than Zoom (namely OSB or Skype) - When it works, no control over anything while broadcasting, very laggy at 30 fps, unusable at 60 fps. I find the HDMI interface way better.
  7. At the moment I'm using USB capture card + USB-c for power. The camera doesn't actually charge the battery but it also doesn't seem to draw from it so it works for long sessions. I've had a so much trouble with the direct USB to PC using Fuji's Webcam software... I found a decently priced dummy battery, I will test is and report here.
  8. Hi, Could you elaborate? Somewhat in a similar boat here. My understanding is that the camera cannot use the USB both as a data channel for the video and as a source of power.
  9. Do you have a TRS plug (NOT a TRRS)? TRS = 2 black bands on the jack, TRRS = 3 bands.
  10. I use the Fotga NP-W126 battery coupler and it fits perfectly with a very stable connection.
  11. Both function as expected on my X-S10, both zebras and peaking while recording.
  12. There are actually two sets of 1-12 numbers for the hours. Move the hours number past 12 to access the PM ones.
  13. On my X100V, if I set the front dial to Program Shift, it works even in OVF mode. You need to select the full auto aperture mode (lens aperture set to A, then choose F from the front dial, move it all the way to the right). Face Detection is not compatible with the OVF to the best of my knowledge.
  14. There are dummy batteries for NP-W126, even a kit from Fuji. I'm using one, let me know if you want the reference.
  15. On mine, if I set it to USB Raw Conv./Backup Restore, the backup fucntion works. That's about it though, no tethering whatsoever.
  16. Hi, The RAW is the full uncropped image. In Lightroom Classic, after import (if you have the option to treat separately RAW and JPEGs turned on), you will see the cropped JPG and the integrated preview of the RAW showing the cropped preview generated by the camera. As soon as you edit the RAW, you will see the uncropped version. If you have the option turned off you see the RAWs as cropped previews in the Library and the uncropped RAWs in the development module.
  17. Oops. That one: HDMI Capture QGeeM Capture Card, HDMI to USB 3.0, 1080P 60fps HD Video/Audio Capture Recorder Device, Compatible with PC, Mac Linux YouTube OBS OS X Twitch for PS3 PS4 Xbox: Amazon.ca: Electronics
  18. I use this one: Amazon.com: UGREEN USB C Hub 4 Ports USB Type C to USB 3.0 Hub Adapter with Micro USB for MacBook Pro, iMac, Samsung Galaxy Note 10 S10 S9, LG, Google Chromebook Pixelbook, Dell XPS, Oculus Rift S: Computers & Accessories Audio isn't its forte and I'd advise using an alternate audio capture source but video is perfect in 1080p 60 fps.
  19. It's sad that Fuji hasn't made this work. Even sadder they probably did it on purpose. After trying the Webcam software unsuccesfully on the X-S10, I resorted to getting a USB HDMI capture card. It wouldn't even show an image while the X100V worked on the same configuration! Honestly the card is IMHO a much better solution quality-wise as it can easily capture 1080p at 60 fps (which is more than enough for webcamming and as 4k is not possible with a cheap card), but you can also record videos or livestram with real time effects thanks to a free software like OBS wich recognizes the card + camera with no trouble. You can even output f-log and have a real-ime LUT in OBS, then use OBS to broadcast to Skype/Zoom/Whatever. It's an additional piece of equipement for sure but you can get a good one for a reasonable amount of money (in the 30-50$) and it works on mac and pc, while still being easily transported. Plus, you get 10 bits (not sure you get 10 bit when using the webcam fuji software but it would be surprising). The capture "card" (more like a dongle) typically does not require any installation and shows up as a USB device on PC that you can choose in any video conferencing software you use normally. The caveat is that you probably need a USB 3 connection to get 60fps. Other advantage is that you have full control of the camera while the HDMI output is active.
  20. Missed your reply, sorry. You will probably have a hell of a time focusing at 800mm unless it's a completely static subject or using very high aperture numbers. The 800 will only give you 1200mm equivalent anyway, so off by a wide margin. If you're going for astro at 3000mm, you are going to need a 2000$ mount and you won't be able to see anything because you'd be at f11+ equivalent (except for moon). For the moon, you will get the same or better results with the 400 + 1.4x than with the p1000. The p1000 has a 1/2.3" sensor. That's 13 times smaller surface, which means you can crop a lot from the APS-C of the Fuji and get equivalent results. You will probably need some kind of stabilization, either a very good tripod or a stabilized lens (like the Fuji 100-400)... A few links about Astrophotography and the Fuji : https://fujifilm.blog/2018/04/30/an-introduction-to-astrophotography-with-your-x-series/ https://www.myfujifilm.co.za/news/2019/10/24/an-introduction-to-astrophotography-using-fujifilm-x-series-cameras-by-jon-kerrin https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4251928
  21. On Bulb the shutter will stay open as long as you press the shutter button. If you want to modulate the speed, you need to use T mode. Then, according to the Button/Dial setting, you can change the Shutter speed with the front or back dial.
  22. On the long end, the p1000 is a 3000 mm FF equivalent. Longest native lens is the 100-400 mm. Couple it with the TC 2x you get 800mm, so 1200 mm FF equivalent. You'd get much higher quality than the pxx00 with that combination but far from the focal length. You will never get such a versatile zoom range in one (or even 2) lense(s) on the Fuji system.
  23. Mode B = déclencher et maintenir appuyé pour commencer la prise, relacher quand le temps de pose requis est atteint. Mode T = réglage du temps de pose par la molette arrière.
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