SimonW

I asked Fuji UK. They confirmed it cannot be done if using back button focus. They said they have raised it with Fuji head office. Maybe next firmware update..... Simon CT

I use back button focus the same as Sany. It's interesting that the actual ISO might be visible in half-shutter press mode as Greybeard suggested. I really don't want to change from back button focus but might get round to testing Greybeard's idea sometime..... (Glad I mentioned that irritation now).

Wow, as you say, easy when you know how. It works a treat so thank you Catsaregods for replying. Simon

I use cable release often. I changed the setting for the microphone jack to remote shutter and bought a very cheap on Amazon cable release which had the matching connector. It seems the socket in other Fuji cameras is a different size so the Fuji remote won't fit X-S10, but mine works perfectly. Simon.

Mine worked fine, no bother at all.

I've been using mainly manual exposure, very occasionally shutter or aperture priority, since I bought this camera, but now want to use Auto ISO and can't seem to set it up. My old Pentax had TV, AV andTAV modes along with manual. that's shutter (time) priority or aperture priority with the ISO value fixed, and what they called shutter and aperture both adjustable and auto ISO. I have managed to set the Fuji to do this. (Though it's a little annoying that the ISO chosen isn't shown on the screen - instead it always shows the chosen maximum possible). However, what I cannot find how to do is set an exposure adjustment along with this, for example -1/3 stop (or one step of ISO) to avoid blown highlights. Maybe someone here knows the secret or can confirm it cannot be done? Simon

Oops, sorry folks, I can see the specs say it does. Must have been a memory error - mine, not the cameras!

I noticed this sound on my X-S10 right away and assumed it was IBIS. I was confused later when I switched IBIS off and still heard it, but didn't let it worry me. So thank you for the explanation. Robnl's post is a bit odd though, because the X-T4 does not have IBIS. So perhaps that isn't the full story....

I should have explained. If I remember correctly, you enter the new file name you want (I found this fiddly) at the select folder stage. It isn't created till you take the next photo, which will store in it. After that you can select either folder.

You can do this but I don't recommend it. You would need to remember to manually make a new folder each day, month or whatever, and the file number restarts from 1 in each folder. That screws up my way of filing the files on the Pc and without extreme care the new files will over-write older ones. I found that out the hard way.

I agree with all that's been said above, hence my decision to buy XS10 rather than XT4. The reputation of Pentax was that if it got covered in mud you could wash it under a running tap. I never tried that but was happy to use it in briefly in heavy rain and desert sandstorms and never had a problem. I wouldn't be that confident in such circumstances without weather sealing and would use poly bag and chamois even in less extreme conditions. It's often the small doors covering SD slots, batteries etc that aren't sealed, and some times cable and microphone or remote shutter sockets have no cover at all. Sealing a pop-up flash isn't easy either. Worth protecting those points if you're out in weather you want to protect yourself from.

Hi Rickc, (This time I noticed the spell check removing the last c. Sorry I didn't last time). I traded all my Pentax kit except the KS2 and 18-135, which covers most situations for backup, and still use it, mostly in rain or blowing sand where I wouldn't risk the Fuji, or maybe any other expensive new kit. Yes, I agree about the OVF, and I do find the live histogram much more useful than taking the shot and chimping. (I never really liked using a rear screen for taking shots except for those occasions where the camera position forces me to). Cheers, Simon

Rick, I only just found this thread and can see all your questions have been answered. I too came to the XS10 recently after using Pentax SLRs since 1969, and of course Pentax DSLRs later. Really just welcoming you here. I set my XS10 similar to yourself except I do prefer the lens aperture ring. I still can't get used to having to switch the camera on before focusing and zooming, when with DSLR I very often did that first, before deciding whether the shot would be worth taking. That habit probably came from starting with film SLRs. I tried both XT4 and XS10 before buying and much preferred the latter's handling, my only concern being its lack of weather sealing, because that was always a Pentax feature I found I could trust. Cheers, Simon

It puzzled me for a while, perhaps because I'm not too observant. On my Windows PC opening X-Acquire (I click on a desktop shortcut) happens so quickly I don't see it. But a very pale greyed out icon appears in the taskbar. Once I connect and switch on the camera and wait a few seconds, the icon lights up in glorious technicolour, and a click on it gets a small menu. Oh yes, I need to change the camera's connection mode from USB card reader to USB RAW CONV/Backup/Restore before I connect it, and change it back afterwards. (I use a cable, it's probably different for a wireless connection). Maybe my experience will help....

I don't see my X-S10 on the list?

Glospete, thank you for responding. I've put two and two together by myself, and added advice from a very helpful large retailer's customer service. The upshot is:- My lenses (and of course the manuals for them) were in production before Fuji made any cameras with IBIS, and the reason their manuals say leave OIS on is valid for such cameras. However, it seems that IBIS can sometimes (probably not very often) actually cause image blurr when the camera is fixed. More importantly the mechanism itself can actually be damaged by trying to move while the camera is rock-solid. (That damage is only really likely to build up very gradually if the camera is used a great deal like this). I'm happy to believe all that and will try to remember to turn it off when using a tripod in future. (Actually, as I don't use the fn button (the one next to the eyepiece - its default is white balance) I've changed it to give easy access to the IS control). Cheers, Simon

TRIPOD: conflicting advice. The camera manual for my Fujifilm X-S10 clearly shows that stabilization should be switched OFF when the camera is on a tripod (the usual advice for all cameras). However, the manuals for both my stabilized lenses (XF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 and XF 10-24mm F4 R OIS WR say it should be left ON. They explain: “Because image stabilization is effective in reducing blur caused by the motion of the mechanical shutter, we recommend that you enable optical stabilization even when using a tripod." My camera and those lenses all have stabilization, but the body and lens IS cannot be independently controlled. It may be that in-body IS should be switched off when used with a lens which does not have stabilization. Or perhaps if an electronic shutter is used rather than a mechanical one. Perhaps with my system I should leave it on if using a mechanical shutter and turn it off if I switch to the electronic one. I'd certainly welcome some clarification of this. Regards,