abmet

Cool, hope you get some great images with it.

Yeah the 17-40 wasn’t announced when I purchased mine so didn’t have that decision. I went with the mk II as I was impressed with what offered and the amount of size reduction they managed. I saw this that has pretty good comparison between the mk II and the 17-40 https://fujiframe.com/articles/sigma-17-40-vs-16-55-fuji

I really like the image quality, size, and weight of my mark II. I never owned the mark I so I can’t help with comparison though it is highly regarded as a great lens. I don’t use mine for video but I will say it doesn’t have the smoothest zoom, which seems to be common complaint for the mark II. For photos it doesn’t bother me but I would imagine would be an issue if zooming while recording video.

I’ve had my X-T5 since launch and usually my missed focus shots are moving and using continuous focus. I suppose it’s possible I’ve experienced this too but have just assumed I missed the shot or usually it’s lower light shots I notice most missed focus. It seems like you’ve checked a lot of my thoughts that could be (release priority, AF+MF, face detection on, touch screen focus). Do you ever half press shutter to recompose? Could it be you half press and have slight delay before fully pressing? Wonder if you could rent another lens and see if experience same issues. I haven’t had my 16-55 mkii that long so I’ll watch for this more closely. Wish I could help more.

I’ve really enjoyed my 70-300 on my X-T5. What kind of photography and what subjects?

What aperture and where was the focus point?

Yes the second question is unusual. I always put cards from my X-T5 and X100V into my Mac to transfer and have no issues when putting back into the camera. I don’t ever delete or format the cards using my Mac. Once I’ve copied the photos to my Mac I use the camera to format the card. I’ve always heard that should format in camera to lower chance of issues and ensure file system is compatible with the specific camera.

Glad that helped solve your issue.

Both my X-T5 and X100V display the calculated iso when half press the shutter. Did you happen to change the shutter AE to off in the button/dial settings? I think if that is off the iso continues to show max iso when shutter half pressed.

You can backup and restore camera settings in the Fujifilm app, but I don’t think can copy to a different model camera.

Glad you figured it out. Easy to change a setting and forget to change it back, especially when in middle of shooting.

Yes, when using recipe that lists exposure compensation you would dial it in when composing the shot. You’d adjust it based on each individual photo and how you want the overall exposure to be for that particular image.

Version 4.10 The AF algorithm has been partially revised to improve focusing accuracy and subject tracking performance. https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/support/download/firmware/cameras/x-t5/

I’m sorry I haven’t experienced the issues you are having. Have you tried another memory card? Sometimes cards can cause strange issues with cameras.

I assigned it to the down selector button, so each time I press it scrolls through the three auto iso selections. edit: Sorry that is on my X-T5, on my X100V I assigned it to swipe on touch screen. Not as convenient though.

here is some information on the AFC custom settings I pulled from a website that might help choose settings. Tracking Sensitivity Tracking Sensitivity determines how long the camera waits before adjusting focus when another object enters the focus area. The higher the number, the longer the camera will wait. A high value could be useful when shooting a team sport when other players come between you and the subject or when other objects are likely to get in the way when panning with a subject. Speed Tracking Sensitivity Speed Tracking Sensitivity controls how sensitive the tracking system is to changes in the speed of the subject. The higher the value, the more the camera will attempt to respond to sudden changes in speed, however, the camera will have more trouble than usual with low contrast or very reflective subjects. A high value is useful for subjects such as wildlife that can move and change speed quickly. Zone Area Switching Zone Area Switching only takes effect when Zone AF mode is selected and it sets the focus area that is given priority within the selected zone. There are three settings; Center, Auto and Front. When the Center is selected the camera prioritises objects in the centre of the zone while in Front it gives priority to the subject nearest to the camera. Meanwhile, when Auto is selected, the camera locks focus on the subject at the centre of the zone but switches focus area as necessary to track it. Auto makes a good general-purpose setting, but it’s worth experimenting with the others. Using the AF-C Custom Settings As mentioned earlier, the AF-C Custom Settings are selected via the AF/MF Setting page of the menu. Before you make a selection it’s a good idea to give a little thought to your subject and surroundings. In many instances Set 1 Multipurpose will serve you well, but you may get a higher hit rate in some situations with the others. If you’re panning in an area with trees or street lamps, for example, Set 2Ignore Obstacles & Continue to Track Subject could be a good choice that keeps the camera focused on your subject. Set 3 For Accelerating/Decelerating Subject is a good choice for motorsports or races where the subject is likely to slow into a corner (for example) before accelerating away. Set 4 For Suddenly Appearing Subject is useful when you don’t know when or where a subject will appear - perhaps if you’re waiting below the brow of the hill or around the bend in a race. Set 5 For Erratically Moving & Accel/Decel. Subject makes a good choice for wildlife, especially birds in flight as they move randomly and with varying speed.

What AF mode are you using, single, zone, or wide? Do you have face/eye detection on?

I haven’t for any of the firmware updates on my X-T5 or X100V and no issues.

That’s what I thought as well. All my Fujifilm lenses have aperture rings, but couple Nikon lenses I use don’t and when I attach them the front dial switches to aperture.

Easy to do with all the manuals out there that are similar.

Yes seems to be killing the participation too.

Glad was easy fix, I was about to post I’ve not had any issues with my copy of the lens. 👍

Most likely the lens hitting the filter when trying to focus. Make sure you are using filter adapter or might need a deeper filter.

You have to be in focus point select mode where the focus area select box is green. In default settings on X-T5 move the focus point by moving focus lever and then use the command dial to adjust the focus are size and will scroll through the different focus modes. You can change focus lever setting to press to enter this mode like some older cameras but I believe you lose the click to recenter so I don’t use that.

I can’t say for sure if will remove it but I’d try a dedicated sensor cleaning kit, or if you have a local shop that does repairs they might offer cleaning services too.