Tom H.

The best camera is the one you have with you. Chase Jarvis.

For street you want as small and inconspicuous as possible. I find the X-T1 and 16mm still puts people on alert. The 18 or 27 would be a better fit. Or an X100 series.

One more from a few days ago. Fuji X-T1, 16 1.4

Oh and do feel free to share your work flow with examples :-) Always eager to learn more.

Thanks! I have a licence to Iridient Developer, but no Mac anymore. I should revisit all of these someday to get a more consistent look throughout my portfolio, lots of these were done while learning Photoshop, so various levels of editing used and mostly learning as I go along... Thinking about Capture One to restart my work flow process. Lighting is usually only one 60x60cm softbox, sometimes 2. I use generic manual speedlights, Godox V850's and their remote trigger system. Cheep and cheerful, works just fine for me. I also have a Lastolite Triflector for headshots. I work only with a mua and tfp, so the less gear the better. Keeps me fairly mobile too.

It's still an office, we have boring days too... But I've worked at worse places for sure :-)

And some more, Fuji X100T and X-T1, last shot is Athens at night with the sky above, 3.5 seconds exposure, hand balanced on the windscreen, ISO 6400 and 16mm at f1.4... Heavy on the noise reduction, this was shot on a moonless night at 37000ft.

Some views from my office, the Airbus A32F. Helps having a small Fuji in the bag at all times, pictures taken with the X100T and the X-T1.

I own the 16mm. It's beautiful. I'd go for that or the 10-24 any day...

Gregory Heisler, 50 Portraits. Check out more of his work too. Joe MacNally, Hot Shoe Diaries.

Thanks. Most of these don't actually have a lot of skin work on them, but I have worked with pretty agressive make-up artists who went a bit overboard. That last picture looks very smooth, but actually I have not touched her skin in that one, apart from cloning out her bra and a mole on her hand. But on my early work, I did go a bit too far, I try keeping it down on newer work. I did notice that my files seem "smoothed" already when imported into Lightroom, as if the pixels were blended together sometimes. Very strange, I can't recall my Canon or Olympus gear showing that effect. I should try Capture One sometime maybe...

This one yes. Must have. And add to that one from Gregory Heisler, like for instance "50 Portraits".

And some of my most recent work. Still some shoots to edit, but lacking time at the moment.

Some of my work from early 2015. Trying to mix it up more, working on concepts with some make-up artists.

Very nice! Lovely colours :-)

Well done! Great set of images!

Some more shots from the beginning. Re-edited a while later since I beefed up my Photoshop skills earlier this year... First shot in the series was what killed my 56 APD. Autofocus motor creeked and yelled throughout the session, and this shot was the final one before I decided something was seriously wrong... You can see the focus was missed, as turned out later were 98% of all shots from this session. I sent in the lens to Fuji and got it back a few weeks later. They changed out the autofocus motor, but problems were even worse after that. Sent it back a second time. They changed the whole optical assembly, and now it seems to have been fixed. Click on the pics to see full size.

Nice light!

Seriously how big are some people's hands? I'm 1m95 (6ft5 for those of you still using medieval measurements), and by all standards I have really big hands... And I've never had issues with any camera, not a DSLR, not a small Micro Four Thirds system. First of all, a camera should be held by the lens barrel. The back hand is for support, not the main grip... That's how it was tought for decades and this still applies today. That grip should be comfortable on any camera body, unless you are using large telephoto lenses and need extra support... Also, how did everyone manage to hold a camera before the advent of the big DSLRs? Surely there were big people then too... I use the X-T1 with the battery grip sometimes, and that's already a huge camera for my taste... Big hands or no big hands...

Hi all, I got into the Fuji system after using a Micro-Four Thirds system for a while. For portraits, the sharpness, skin tone rendering and level of detail is incredible, certainly when adding flash... Some of my more recent work, if admins approve, I'll keep this post updated as I process new shoots. Started doing portraiture in November only, so there will be some progression hopefully over time Gear used up to today, together with generic speedlights and modifiers. X100T X-T1 56 1.2 APD 50-140 2.8 16 1.4 First post is my earliest work with the Fuji system. Three shoots I did in December. Click on the pics to see full size.

I never have white balance issues with any Fuji lens. The Auto setting is used most of the time, when shooting flash I just keep 5600K set. When Auto WB doesn't cut it, I correct in lightroom afterwards... Colour rendition between bodies and lenses is where Fuji shines. You should see how far my old Canon gear was apart in rendition...

16, 23, 56. I do mostly portrait work.

I have those too, Godox V850 Ving. Great stuff, but pricier than Yongnuo though. Cactus V5 or V6 is a nice system too. All manual.

My wishlist: 18-35 1.8 WR, for travel use. I travel weekly, so this would be my all time kit. 120 WR Macro, for macro and portrait use. 35 1.4 WR, as general evening walkaround and 'round-the-house lens. All with linear motors please, my 50-140 made me appreciate those :-)

I own the new 16 1.4 and the X100T. For street, 16mm is too wide for my taste. It tends to capture everything, makes it more difficult to draw focus into a certain area. I think the 18mm would be the widest I'd go personally. I tend to keep the 16mm for environmental portraits, but that's more my thing anyway...