etomcat

Enjoy the X-T2. I wouldn't recommend such big capacity cards. Makes you lazy on backup. And if it fails, you lose everything.
 
 
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I think both cameras are very similar and you would get same IQ in most of the situations. I would suggest you check what are the differences in terms of features between both. If you are sure you will never need / miss any of them, then go with T20. If however you are not sure and you think what T2 offers over T20 is valuable and nice to have down the road then you should go with T2. If you are starting with the Fuji ecosystem, over time you will be investing in lenses anyway. However, if you have no short term plans to buy a second body, you will be "stuck" with whatever you buy first. At least for a while.
That is what I would do.
A month ago I went with T2 kit (+ XF 18-55). Like Elisha I try to spend as much as I can, for what I would need to start, in the beginning. I added XF 55-200 and battery grip.
Good luck

I think both cameras are very similar and you would get same IQ in most of the situations. I would suggest you check what are the differences in terms of features between both. If you are sure you will never need / miss any of them, then go with T20. If however you are not sure and you think what T2 offers over T20 is valuable and nice to have down the road then you should go with T2. If you are starting with the Fuji ecosystem, over time you will be investing in lenses anyway. However, if you have no short term plans to buy a second body, you will be "stuck" with whatever you buy first. At least for a while.
That is what I would do.
A month ago I went with T2 kit (+ XF 18-55). Like Elisha I try to spend as much as I can, for what I would need to start, in the beginning. I added XF 55-200 and battery grip.
Good luck

I played today a bit with the wireless tethering and found it extremely slow and unreliable. The transfer speed is extremely slow to a point that makes it unusable. The camera has less wireless sensitivity than my iPhone. I need to be literally close to the router to make it work. At one point the LED on the back started to flash only red and I was not able to control the camera anymore. Even to shut it down. I had to take out the battery. Never had this happen with v2.0 of the firmware.
I couldn't find if the camera supports 5GHz AC or just 2.4 N, but as it did not see my 5GHz network it looks like it does not. I think that is a must with the volumes of data the camera needs to transfer during a shooting session. At the current stage for me at least wifi tethering is just unusable. Save to PC feature is in the same corner. Transferring of a single fine jpg took perhaps a minute if not more. It is not my wifi as I have ASUS RT-AC3100 which is quite fast and I have no slowness issues with any of my other devices on the same network.
That is sad as that was the feature I have been waiting the most.
Has anybody been able to successfully use the wifi features yet ?
By successfully I mean with usable speeds.
What is your experience ?

Thank you, jlmphotos. Looks like a "normal" thing then. I was a bit worried if it is something with the mount.
Thank you

Does it show the batteries fully discharged (red batt. indicator)?
I never remove the batteries from the grip and haven't noticed such behaviour. They do go down by few percentage for few days. I will check what is the charge when I get home . Last time I charged them was perhaps a week ago and played with the camera few times, not much.
I do not keep / use a battery in the camera body. Only 2 in the grip. I do not want to remove the grip to get that battery out and I do not like the idea to charge the battery inside the body.

Be careful with Nikon flash on Fujifilm camera. I read somewhere that Canon flash causes overheating issue. Not because of wrong voltages (although that may also be true) but because of different protocols - the chip in the camera receives command it has no idea how to process and (most probably) on wrong pins which leads to increased chip temperatures. At least that was the explanation.
I am also interested in this. I have a flash left from my Nikon setup (Metz 50 Af-1) and am looking for a way to use it with my X-T2 ...

Greetings:
 
I have been thinking about buying a Nikon D750.  Then I handled (briefly) a Fuji X-T2.  I much preferred the handling of the X-T2.
 
My question is whether you give up much in terms of image quality with the X-T2 vs. Nikon D750.  I would assume you do because of ff vs. crop.  I am not printing billboards.  I would print occasionally 16 x 20 approx.
 
I am not a professional and my photos are nothing fancy but I do like high resolution, etc.
 
I am sorry if I am asking a repeat question.
 
Thank you.
 
SM

Hi, 
 
Would like some advice on the best wireless triggers that I can use on the X-T2 for use with the Nikon SB-700 for off-camera flash. I don't really want to buy a new flash at the moment and if this can work it would be great! Thanks in advance for any thoughts!
 
Daniel

Hey There. 
 
Was wondering if anybody has any tips or tricks to save battery life.  When i go out to shoot i usually have to take a spare battery with me. ( Which isn't too bad ).  But got me thinking about what can i do to squeeze a few more photos out of a battery.  For example, i usually have the camera on EVF with the sensor, so its off unless i want to look thru it.  The problem i noticed is that when the camera is hanging from my neck my body also triggers the sensor and turns on the screen...  I can't find a 'screens off' view mode, so the only way to have all the screens of would be turning off the camera.  ( also, it would be awesome to have that view mode button configurable, so i can put it somewhere else... its very uncomfortable to use where it currently is ) 
 
Is it ok to be turning on/off the camera every few minutes to take a picture and have it off most of the time?. Any issues with the hardware?  The biggest downside would be the startup time, I guess. Or is there any other pitfall? 
 
Does anybody has a good battery saving tip or thing to do?  
 
 

I'm trying to take manual shots without any moving mechanical parts. But I can't figure out how to disable and lock the motorized aperture. Any ideas?
 
DESIRED
Locking the aperture to a fixed position, so that I can take multiple shots without the aperture motor moving at all.
 
CURRENT
I put the camera in aperture priority, and select f/8 on the lens aperture ring. The physical aperture sits wide open. I half press the shutter release. The motorized aperture reduces to f/8. Full press takes the shot. Aperture moves back to wide open.
 
CAMERA LENS
Fuji X-T2 camera, Fujinon XF56mmF1.2 R lens. As far as I can tell, this lens has no buttons.

One more vote for those two features !! I was surprised the Custom settings are not preserving the exact configuration of the camera.

Hi,
 
Do you know if something has been improved in the the raw processing or just to support compressed files?
 
Do you like the output?
I saw some comparisons between different products, Capture One being one of them and I was not impressed by how it processed the raw data from X-Trans. I actually liked Lightroom output more.
I may have to download C1 and give it a try.
 
Thanks for the update

Is that with the glas on the viewfinder or the rubber around it? I haven't used the camera outside yet, so haven't had an issue with dust on the glas, but the rubber is like a dust magnet. I may try to clean it with some rubber safe anti-static solution. Another option is to try some tirth party peace. It might be less dust prone if made from different material . So quite a lot offerings on eBay the other day.

Hello,
 
Three weeks ago I got my X-T2 with the kit 18-55 and 55-200.
As the zoom ring on 55-200 is much stiffer than 18-55, when I zoom in / out the whole lens twists slightly. That does not happen with 18-55 when using the zoom ring as it is not that stiff, but I am able to reproduce it if I hold the base of the lenses and twist it, applying the same force as when using the zoom on 55-200. There is no move perpendicular on the lens axis. I did not have time to play much with the camera until now, so I just noticed this yesterday.
My previous camera was Nikon D90 and I cannot recall to have noticed such behaviour (I sold the camera, so cannot check)
 
 
Can somebody with one or both of those lenses (or even any other Fujinon lens) please check on X-T2 or similar camera?
 
Is this something I need to worry about ?
 
Thanks in advance

Can you try to change the mode using the button on the right hand side of the EVF?

Hey everyone!
 
I just wrote up a new blog post this morning outlining the settings I use for Iridient X-Transformer (Windows PC version) + Lightroom, which completely removes this muddy / watercolor texture problem - leaving with a perfect looking image file to work with. It's pretty easy if you batch import with Iridient - using the settings i outline, and then import into Lightroom with a quick Preset I developed.
 
Everything is in the post, please check it out! I think you'll be very happy with the final result.
 
Cheers!
 
Note: I was shooting with a Fuji XT-1, and have yet to try it on one of the new 24.3mp sensors. Please try it and let me know what you find out!