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spongeee last won the day on December 17 2017

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About spongeee

  • Birthday August 17

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  1. Hi Nessunego, Thanks for the reply. Great news. Thank you. 😁
  2. I, as per some others on this thread use Irident X converter to convert RAF to DNG. The resulting files are then easy to edit in Lightroom without any sharpening as the conversions are so detailed already. The DNG files are a handy backup if anything happens to the original or vice versa, and can easily be edited and synced with Lightroom mobile on iphone or ipad. I find C1 a total pain to use but I guess its something you would get more used to with practice but C1 is not for me.
  3. Hi, I am looking to get an X-S10. Has anyone tried the 16-55 f2.8 on this body and is there much finger room left between the lens and the hand grip? Also how about the 50-140 f2.8 and the 100-400 red badge lenses? Thanks for your help. Jason
  4. Hi, I have both the 18-135 and the 16-55. (And the 18-55 for that matter too). I dont envy you having to make your decision as I usually take both 16-55 &18-135 on holiday with me and then I dont regret leaving one at home! I then alternate each time I go out depending on my anticipated shooting needs. I'd take the 18-135 if I had to choose only one though. For me the IS, extra reach and great bokeh when up close and wide open wins the match. I shoot RAW and upping the contrast and lowering the highlights works well on the 18-135. The 16-55 is naturally more contrasty but I find it produces heavier shadows which I often need to lift. Ultimately the better lens optically is the 16-55, but the 18-135 is no slouch and also best in class compared to anything else available IMO. I notice that the 18-135 is not easily available to buy in the UK at the moment which makes me wonder if Fuji may be regretting making such a high quality one solution lens. Good luck with your decision making but ultimately go for the one which fits your shooting needs the most. I doubt either will disappoint you but youll always be curious about the other one. I hope that helps.
  5. Dam, I felt sure they'd release the Graphite Silver version straight off this time. I'm going to hold off my X-T2 purchase until the black version drops and they introduce the Graphite Silver version. I can believe the cost of the X-T2 black version in the UK... body only the same price a the FX D750 Nikon! Thanks for the information. Jason.
  6. Can't find any reference to it, anyone know? Thanks.
  7. Also, if possible, it would be nice to have a sensor mapping facility to detect and conceal sensor spots (stuck, bright or dead pixels) or even extend it to include dust spots etc and remove them from images automatically. Additionally, for long exposure pictures it may be nice to have the facility to see the image "develop" on screen as the picture is exposed. The shot can then be stopped as soon as the exposure is optimum. I may be wrong but I think both of these features are avaiable on Olympus cameras.
  8. I'd like to see a quick card Format facility with 2 buttons pressed at the same time. Its one of the few features I miss about my Nikon cameras.
  9. I use my X-T1 Graphite Silver with my 18-135 and battery grip. It balances and looks fantastic and the IS is rock steady. This is a perfect alround camera form my needs. I can loose the battery grip for a lighter option. I also have an X-T10 and adore it too. I leave my 23mm on it all the time now and its become my even lighter option. I think of this as my X-100T replacement with the benefit of being able to upgrade the camera in the future and with an even better lens. I thought the 18-135 worked when I tried it on the X-T10 and the fact it points nose down when carrying it was not a problem to me, it helped protect the lens from the elements. I found it best to hold the lens in the palm of the hand and use the screen much like a medium format camera. Although the X-T10 works fine with the 18-135, I think it begs for the smaller fixed focal length lenses like the 35 or 23 etc. I hope that helps. [emoji4] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. My guess is bigger sensor and/or more pixels. Maybe explain the red labels on the 50-140 and 16-55 2.8 lenses. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. spongeee

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  12. Personally I think they've ditched the X-E and X-M lines and replaced them with the X-T10. Just my 2p worth. [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hi Mike. I am fortunate enough to have both the 18-55 and the 18-135. for me its a no brainer, the 18-135 is a fabulous lens. I loved my 18-55 until I got the 18-135. The extra reach is fabulous as a walk around lens and it has a lovely bokeh and great colour. The 18-135 is heavier and I use the battery grip which balances beautifully with the lens on the X-T1 but makes it heavier still. This combo is my holiday go to kit as a walk around. If i was being critical about the 18-135 it does distort a bit at the wide angle. Here's an example of the boke... Bokeh colour and sharpness... Then theres the weather proofing. If you dont mind the extra weight and dont need the f2.8 go for the 18-135. Good luck with your decision. [emoji3] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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