BobJ

If you think about it the use of software correction for distortion allows the lens designer to compute the lens for maximum sharpness, as correction for sharpness and distortion are usually mutually exclusive.

Well, I have tested the 'pic effect off' histogram highlight end with the aid of some software called Rawdigger and it is as close as you will get. We have to remember that the histogram is generated from jpeg output, even when you are using raw. This is so for all cameras as far as I know. So it will never be 100% accurate. Michael, sorry I have not tried the remote app yet. it is getting near my bedtime now, but I will try it tomorrow and post the result.

I have used ExpertShield on my cameras for years. They are invisible, never come off and stop scratches etc. They won't stop the screen shattering but I doubt the glass ones will either.

USB is an industry standard. The voltage and pinouts are standard.Therefore if your charger and cable really are USB it should work. However I believe that there is a special implementation of USB which allows 20v for charging instead of the normal 5v. I have never seen this but you never know. One thing that may confuse you is that the X-T2 has a connector known as micro-B superspeed. However a normal micro USB connector will plug into the lower section of the socket and work, so no need to buy a new cable. If you have the power booster grip a bonus is that it doubles as a batterycharger for one or two batteries.

You can change the AE-L to do AF-L (and vice versa). The AE-L is ideally placed for AF-L. I hope this isn't too confusing!

As far as I know there is no way in Lightroom to remove the automatically applied corrections in raw, but why would you want to? I believe that other raw converters may give you the option.

Yes, there is something about film that is not easily replicated in digital. The grain is one contributing factor. Digital noise is not the same at all. Fuji's attempt to replicate it in the X-T2 doesn't work very well. Digital isn't inferior to film though, just different.

I can confirm the flicker. The flicker lasts about one second on my 35mm. I tried the 14mm. It still does it but not for so long. I can't hear any humming noise when I shake the camera but that might be less than wonderful hearing. My 18-55mm flickers when my finger is released from the shutter button, after focus has been obtained. I can't shed any light on why the viewfinder flicker occurs but maybe it has something to do with the way the camera controls the iris. Nissin have issued a firmware upgrade fir the i40. Here in the UK I had to return the i40 to the importers, Kenro, to get the firmware updated. They charged me £24. Although the flash now works ok on the camera the Canon style off camera cable that I used to use with the XT-1 does not work with the X-T2. My guess is that Fuji are now using a sixth contact thet the Canon cable does not cater for.

I haven't read all the replies so sorry if I am repeating anything. As an experienced film shooter I can tell you that very few films could manage 150 lines per millimetre. You would have to be shooting something like Pan F (50 iso). Medium speed black and white films are about 100 lines per millimetre, If I remember correctly, and colour film much less. However with film the grain (analogue noise) is seen in the midtones and severely affects the image at the limits of resolution. Then you have to take into account that the achievable resolution is affected by the lens as well as the film (or sensor in digital), so you are not actually going to get 100 lpmm from 100 lpmm film. Also film resolution takes a huge dive after around 400 iso. I think that at 24MP we are already far beyond what 35mm film used to give.

acefibble, the Sony A7 Mk2 costs about the same, the Canon 5D Mk3 is £2300 and won't be available for much longer, the 5D Mk4 is £3600. The Nikon D800 is no longer available. The D810 costs £2400. All prices taken from the Wex website. So apart from the Sony, the X-T2 is in fact at least £1000 less than the cameras you mention. It's a bargain compared with the Nikon or Canon. I have the battery grip as I went for the deal that includes one. It will be good for taking action shots. It improves the balance of the camera with a long lens and removes the constant worrying and fiddling with batteries. A bonus is that you can charge the batteries with it. For street or landscape I will leave it behind as it does make the camera a lot bigger and heavier. So it depends on your needs. Gordoneussel76, you won't need the expensive Fuji MHG-XT2 grip for Arca Swiss unless you want the grip feature. A normal Arca Swiss plate (no longer than about 65mm) will fit without obstructing the battery cover.

Setting 'preview pic effect' to off will help somewhat, and also give a more accurate histogram for raw. However the EVF on any CSC camera is designed to show what is being seen by the sensor and if the exposure puts the tones further up the curve then inevitably you will see the whole image become brighter. In my opinion the ETTR method, although technically correct, is simply not needed nowadays. It was advocated when A-D converters were only 12 bit and the sensor noise was bad. Because modern sensors have such low noise and the converters are better in my humble opinion it is mostly redundant.

Having had my XT-2 for a couple of weeks now, here are few observations which might be helpful, especially if you are thinking of buying one. I surely cannot be the only one that was nearly driven mad by the XT-1s easily jogged controls. They put an additional lock in with one of the firmware updates which I had to use to lock the shutter mode lever, otherwise it would constantly get changed. I bought a thumb grip too which helped with the controls on that side. in my hands at least, the XT-2 does not seem to need any of these bodges. There is no custom lock function but mercifully I have not found any tendency for the controls to give me a surprise. There is a 'hidden' feature that is very useful when taking night shots. In the display custom setting you can enable a very thin green line around the image area so that you can see where the edges are against the black surround in the EVF. It is hardly visible in good light so it can be left on all the time. To get it go to screen setup > display custom setting and tick the box which says 'focus frame'. The menu is much improved and is more intuitive. The battery meter now tells something like the truth. This means that you no longer have to panic halfway through shooting the Red Arrows display when you realise that the battery indicator has gone down to 2 bars! I haven't timed it but the red indication seems to last much longer before the camera dies. Not only is the EVF brighter but there is an auto brightness setting that works reasonably well. It's not perfect but does save a lot of the fiddling about when going from sunshine to indoors etc. I wear eyeglasses and I tried the bigger eyecup with the XT-1. It was no use at all and was obviously designed for those who are not '4 eyes'. The new cup on the XT-2 is larger than the standard XT-1 cup but works well with my glasses. The new vertical power grip has an improvement over the XT-1 version that I have not seen mentioned elsewhere. The XT-1 grip was hopeless on a tripod with the 55-200, especially if there was any wind, as it flexed. Try it yourself. Fit the camera to the tripod and lightly tap the end of the lens. Now try it with the grip attached. I am glad to report that the XT-2 grip is solid. It is possible to see a difference in resolution with the new sensor, but the main thing is that it gives more scope for cropping. I love the square option but why didn't Fuji take the opportunity to add a 4:3? The noise seems a bit better and the dynamic range is probably about the same, although I have not ran tests and so take this with a pinch of salt - just my impressions after a short amount of use. The Grain Effect thing was obviously engineered by someone that has never seen film grain - sorry Fuji. However the Acros setting is nice. The ability to have raw written to one card and jpeg to the other is a good feature for me. I normally use raw but now I have a choice without having to download the jpegs if I don't want them . A tip for raw shooting that also applies to the XT-1. Assign one of the buttons to 'preview pic effect'. The view with it off is unhelpfully flat but the histogram is much more accurate for raw and shows the highlight cut-off fairly well. So when shooting those landscapes in raw you can switch off pic effect to check the histogram. They have moved the tripod bush to the centre. This means that if you don't want a grip, but you do want to change the battery without taking off your arca Swiss tripod plate, you don't have to buy Fuji's ludicrously overpriced MHG-XT2. Just buy an ordinary plate from one of the Chinese suppliers on Ebay for less than £5. Don't buy one that is longer than 65mm though. Finally the Nissin i40. I might post this separately as well as I know there are some i40 users out there. It's the good news and the bad news. The bad news is that it won't work at all on the XT-2. The good news is that if you send Kenro (in the case of the UK) a request to have the i40 firmware updated for the XT-2 they will fix it for £20 + vat. You have to send it to them. Now for more bad news. I had a Canon style off-camera cable which worked perfectly on the XT-1. Not on the XT-2. I assume that they are using the sixth contact which the cable does not cater for. I also have some old Yongnuo remotes which would work the i40 in manual - but they won't work either. So now I have an i40 which works, but not off camera. I hope all this helps someone.

I can't say that I have noticed the XT-2 as being any worse than the XT-1. In my experience power consumption is mostly determined by use of the EVF and the LCD rather than by making exposures. Don't chimp (it shouldn't be necessary), play a lot with the camera when you first get it so that you have all the buttons set how you want and don't need to delve into the menus. Set the power time-out to 2 minutes, unless the camera is on a tripod, in which case you will curse the fact that the power timeout can only be set by delving into the menu. The power meter is much more accurate on the XT-2 so at least when you get the red battery symbol you have got more than the 10 or 20 seconds to go that you had with the XT-1

It's a good idea to swap the AE-L and AF-L button functions around via the button/dial settings menu, as it is much easier to operate the AE-L button with your thumb than the AF-L.

Hello everyone, I have been looking at this forum for some time and thought it was about time that I gave something back. I am a retired computer engineer living in the Midlands of England. Being 'ancient of days' I come from a film based background. I still have a darkroom but I haven't used it for a long time. Photography was put on the back burner when my wife became ill. Then in 2012, after her passing, I started in earnest again. I had a Sony A99 which was a fine camera but most of the lenses I had were old Minolta lenses. I also had a Mamiya 645 Pro (film). In 2014 I decided to go on a photography workshop in Romania and I realised that I didn't want to carry the big kit, So I bought an X-E2 with the 18-55mm, a 14mm and the 55-200mm. I was so pleased with it that I sold the A99, the Mamiya, and all the lenses. Then when the X-T1 came out I bought it. Later I had the X-E2 converted to infra-red by ACS. I have had an X-T2 for a couple of weeks now and have some things to say about it. So standby for a post on that. I attach what is one of the best images I took in Romania.