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Hermelin

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Posts posted by Hermelin

  1. On 7/4/2019 at 10:57 PM, yukosteel said:

    Few more things to keep in mind about Mitakon 35mm F0.95 II

     

    • Out of box focus ring infinity point may not match real infinity and DOF calculations will not be precise. So you may want to calibrate focus ring, which is easy.
    • Some samples may have slight focus play when reversing focus rotation, I fixed that by applying some extra grease to helicoid.
    • Some samples have front naming plate not secured tight, simply screw it in CW to proper secure

    UGH, sounds like a a lot of work

  2. On 7/1/2019 at 3:34 PM, mdm said:

    1. Not sure about Mitakon, but any adapted lens reads F1 and as all MF lenses have marked Aperture ring you always know your settings.
    2. For decades, decades and decades MF lenses were the only option for all types of photography. I shoot film a lot, so I shoot MF and have no problem with street photo.
    3. The only condition you may have issues with nailing focus on moving subjects is darkness, when the SS falls lower then 1/60 or 1/250 depends on moving speed.

    That technique called Zone focusing (a lot of explanations and youtube videos). You need DOF calculator ( https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof ) and to remember how far is 5 and 10 meters away is.
    Let's say you are shootig during the day and going to capture some scene at least 10 meters away (everything closer then 5 meters with 35mm lense I would consider "street portraiture"). Usually street photography assumes planty of DOF so it's F8 and more. Thus our calculator said that everything from 4.34m to infinity we would have in focus.

     

    dof.JPG.a29a148fe50b6857a898bd3b192cc6f2.JPG

    So you select 10m and F8 on your lens and don't bother about AF any longer, just correctly estimate 10m distance - plus/minus 3m. Do some practice. )

    Another scenario is the low light conditions when you need to open your lens. But even with F2.8 you will have almost 12m of DOF.
     

    Thank you for reply!

  3. Cpl of questions

    1. As it does not have any electronic connection with the camera, does it mean I won't be able to see the aperture number on the display?
    2. Is it a bad choice for street photography as it's a manual lens? You can see what kind of shots I take https://500px.com/filiphermelin 
    3. Is it near impossible to nail focus on moving subjects? What's the technique you would use?

     

  4. 4 hours ago, monoid said:

    Speeds faster than 1/1000 is not supported at F2 (and AFAIR 1/2000 at F2.2) in X100* lens for mechanical reasons (so, cannot be fixed by firmware, sorry).  And this is exactly the reason why ND filter was introduced.

    Hmm I didn't know that. Well then it's a not a benifit with the ND filter against for example my old X-T2 that can shot up to 1/8000sec @ f/2 (I believe).

  5. Max shutterspeed on the x100f is 1/4000 sec but if I shot iso 200 on a bright day with aperture f/2 and AUTO shutterspeed, it only goes to 1/1000 and the image gets overexposed when it should go higher to get a correct expousure. Why does it stop at 1/1000. I mean I can use the built in ND filer, sure but I shouldn't have to. The other solution is to dial in correct shutter speed manually but I just want to shot with LOW ISO and lets the camera decide shutterspeed for correct expousre it self.

  6. The X-T2 was a more competent camera with more dials. I miss some of them. It had dedicated metering dial, shooting setting, Much bigger viewfinder, flipout screen and weather sealing. And ofcourse you could switch lenses.
    The x100F is so much smaller and lighter and it really makes me wanna bring it with me and shot more.

    44682783762_74f1b4f093_b.jpg2018_0916_16405700 by Filip Hermelin, on Flickr

     

    44682782552_baca8e51f3_b.jpg

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