d750guy

based on your requirements, i think the 10-24 suits your needs.   F1.4 aperture is overrated.  For landscapes, urban architecture, street you need to stop down to get everything in focus anyways. 

did you scratch up the LCD screen too?? lmao.  

did you scratch up the LCD screen too?? lmao.  

did you scratch up the LCD screen too?? lmao.  

still waiting for pictures of the LCD screen and photos without the "vintage" instagram photo filter applied. haha

with no viewfinder i'm assuming you're holding that "vintage" camera like a point and shoot to take pics?  lol.      

wow, $1800? really?   Never mind looking at Fuji's track record... lets all just pull random number out of our behinds.    Since Fuji likes to mimic Leica, and the Leica SL $7500 so my guess is $7000!

You are wrong.  The Xpro1's release price is exactly the same as the Xpro2.    And I suspect the XT2's release price will be exactly the same at the XT1, $1299.
 
https://www.google.com/#q=fujifilm+x+pro1+release+price
 
 
 

You are wrong.  The Xpro1's release price is exactly the same as the Xpro2.    And I suspect the XT2's release price will be exactly the same at the XT1, $1299.
 
https://www.google.com/#q=fujifilm+x+pro1+release+price
 
 
 

i'd prefer not to use the center focus point in portraits. lol

did you scratch up the LCD screen too?? lmao.  

your cons list is dumb.  
 
- You can counteract "shaky images" by using proper technique and the shutter speed = 1.5 times focal length rule and never go below 1/60th, tripods, monopods, OIS.  There are a million ways to counter "shaky images"
 
- High ISO does take a hit when you increase megapixels however when you downsample 24mp to 16mp, you get cleaner and sharper images than just 16mp images alone. 
 
- There is no relation between megapixel count and autofocus speed!  NONE!
 
- SD cards are cheap, cheap cheap!  You're complaining about spending $20 for a back up SD card on a $1400 camera?? 

your cons list is dumb.  
 
- You can counteract "shaky images" by using proper technique and the shutter speed = 1.5 times focal length rule and never go below 1/60th, tripods, monopods, OIS.  There are a million ways to counter "shaky images"
 
- High ISO does take a hit when you increase megapixels however when you downsample 24mp to 16mp, you get cleaner and sharper images than just 16mp images alone. 
 
- There is no relation between megapixel count and autofocus speed!  NONE!
 
- SD cards are cheap, cheap cheap!  You're complaining about spending $20 for a back up SD card on a $1400 camera?? 

did you scratch up the LCD screen too?? lmao.  

The exposure compensation dial does nothing in manual mode except change the metering.   Your exposure is set by you with ISO/aperture/shutter speed and that's it.
 
In program, aperture priority and shutter priority modes, when the camera chooses exposure, exposure compensation is used when the camera underexposes or overexposes an image in difficult lighting situations. 

based on your requirements, i think the 10-24 suits your needs.   F1.4 aperture is overrated.  For landscapes, urban architecture, street you need to stop down to get everything in focus anyways. 

yes