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  1. Since those are not the whole frame, as someone pointed out, it's not possible to tell if the focus is actually off (somewhere else). If nothing is sharp, then it's possible there's something wrong with your lens. The 18-135 is a great lens IMHO, I have had one for 4 years and use it almost more than any other lens. I broke it this summer when my camera fell of the tripod (my fault, not properly locked in) and it fell lens first into a tidepool. It was having problems with the zoom sticking aftre that but Fuji fixed that just replacing some inner collar. Otherwise, it actually surv
  2. Well CCD was what "they" said and I didn't even think about the CMOS issue (which I know as well that most cameras don't use CCD anymore.) I was more interested in why they were going to change the sensor. I called them yesterday and there was a mistake in the estimate which has now been remedied so I approved the repair. They were very nice about it. Hopefully, all will be working well when I get my equipment back.
  3. Thanks Doug. I assume the CCD is the sensor (charge coupled device). That's one thing that made me wonder about the estimate and why that is being replaced.
  4. You can't do better than the current X-H1 prices! It's actually not much different in width/height than the X-T series, though it's definitely "bulkier and heavier". But not in a bad way. Much bigger then the X-T20/30 though, which is what I was using after my X-T1. But I always had to add a grip to the X-T20, X-T30, and X-T1 to make it comfortable. This camera definitely doesn't need one. And the new shutter is delightful. The test photos I've taken so far are excellent--though I have only taken test photos around the house. Too busy with computer work to go out and shoot landsc
  5. Anyone here have some insight into the electronics/innards of a camera and servicing it? Background. My 3 month old X-T30 camera fell off of my tripod by Bass Harbor Light in August, lens first (which got the worst of it) and both the lens and camera got a somewhat wet partially in a puddle. I didn't want to use that lens anyway, and the camera itself seemed to survive the fall and I didn't think it had gotten too wet, so I kept on shooting with it, which was I'm sure, my biggest mistake besides mistracking it in the tripod. Anyway, the camera worked the rest of the sunset shoot, t
  6. As I recently broke m X-T30 and 18-135 (which I was quite fond of), the X-H1 is tempting because of the significant discount on the 18-135 (not to mention the X-H1). And I've resisted buying zooms without IS for my X's; I had some regrets on the X-T30, but the price compared to the X-T3 was just too good to pass up. So now my decision is to go for the X-T3 this time, and end up paying about $2100 + tax for that and the 18-135 (my original was less as it was a kit with my X-T1), or live with the X-H1 size and the "previous generation" sensor and focus, and save around $600, since
  7. Yes, I always delete everything on the card after I load into my computer via an external reader. BH will exchange it for me, but I'm still conflicted whether its worth the trouble. They say the serial number shows as new in their db. So still trying to sort evidence about other factors which might suggest it was returned: Did yours come with the cover for the hotshoe? What charger did yours include?
  8. Thanks. While the card was blank, it wasn't newly formatted. Is there any possibility it picked up the number from my X-T20 or X-T1 in a hidden area of the card? I think my Nikons used to do that, but only if you had shots on the card. In any case, that would be bad programming to set a camera to do that since most of us use multiple cameras. This site says the shutter actuations before my first frame: https://www.shutteractuations.com/ Shows 7 before (maybe including) my first frame, and if I put in the 30 test shot I did, it correctly recognized that there were 37. B
  9. I just got a new Fuji X-T30 last week from B&H but I am suspicious it was an open box, since there were finger prints on the LCD that I'm pretty certain I didn't do when removing the camera from the bag. When I put in a blank SD card to test it, the first exposure # was DSCF0246. Which suggests to me the camera had 245 shots taken already, or less if it starts with 200 by default. I checked the EXIF for the frame with an online site that claimed to count shutter actuations from a sample, and it said there had been 7 actuations before my first shot. That could be factory tests,
  10. I have both. The 16mm is one of the best lenses I've ever owned (and I have a number of pro Nikon lenses). That said, it's built like a tank and weighs in like one too, and I often don't carry it because I want to have the 10-24 with me for wide angle and flexibility, and the 16 is then both redundant and heavy. I'm mostly a landscape photographer though, so f/4 doesn't both me a bit. If I were shooting architecture, I'd favor the 16mm Fuji and the 12mm Rokinon (which I also own). But I wish my XT's had IBIS for those. Not sure yet whether I want to own the bigger X-H1. I'm still hopin
  11. 0) Not any more expensive than the X-T1 at introduction 1) New 24mp Sensor 2) New Joystick 3) Fully Articulating LCD (try using the current one to shoot low to the ground in portrait mode) 4) Tripod socket in center 5) Better histogram - RGB 6) IBIS (I can dream) 7) Built in radio control for flash 8) Better bracketing options 9) Focus mode switch around AF button in back of camera ALA Panasonic 10) Touch screen (with option to turn it off, of course) 11) Deeper grip 12) GPS
  12. I have the X-T1. Yes, I keep it on sensor, but use the viewfinder mostly. I don't like using the menu (so I dont) and I only use Q menu when it's something I couldn't get on one of the few function buttons (I have the pad set to move the focus point). (The new joystick on the X-Pro2 looks like a great alternative to that. I also like the play button placement on that better than on the X-T1. My left hand is under the lens. Don't make me switch my grip to play!) As long as we're talking physical controls: FWIW, I also almost never use the shutter speed dial--I leave it
  13. I hope they find a better place for the tripod socket...it's too close to the battery door to use a standard quick release plate. I'd love to see it properly centered under the lens, though I understand they may not have enough depth there to do it. The solution to this, I've found is to leave an L-bracket on the camera at all times, but it makes it bigger and heavier. But it leaves the battery compartment free to open, and of course, in some ways, it's better than a quick release plate...except when you want the camera to be its original size and weight. I have found one Arca Swiss c
  14. Has anyone tried one of the sticky gel sensor cleaners on the fuji, particularly the "Sensor Gel Stick"? Seems a lot easier, and less expensive per clean, than the swabs. Specifically: https://photographylife.com/product/sensor-gel-stick
  15. 90 = 135 as, for example, a candid shot lens without OIS? Now you need to shoot at 1/125 or more. I understand, like Zeiss, that Fuji may not want to put OIS in lenses because they would be bigger, and perhaps it would affect IQ. (Zeiss doesn't even want to put autofocus in, though they have in some cases.) But then ok, put it on the sensor! If you need greater DOF and have to stop down, you need OIS. Long lenses, which at least to me includes 135mm, need OIS, at least for those of us without rock steady hands. In fact, I would be more tempted to buy the 16-55 F2.8 if it had OI
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