milandro

thank you, it is very nasty, I am sure, for you to deal with this, but it rises questions of trusting the system for us too. It’s not only visually disturbing but it means that the doors were not as locked as one would have hoped they were. Thank you for your quick response.

I understand it is a temporary situation which will be corrected at some stage but this shows, eloquently, that this forum has low defenses against spam attacks. I just hope that the passwords and other member’s data are kept under a better watch. Of course it is Sunday, and no one is on permanent watch 24-7 but if this situation should happen again (it is not the first time but this is the most serious time) I am sure that people will go elsewhere Currently one has to wade through over 9 pages of spam.

Once Again , I didn’t start this thread for those who have the benefit of their superior knowledge or intuition and know all along that this not possible. I have a fair bit of experience and yet didn’t realize this until I saw it, so I started this thread as a warning for those who, not gifted with experience, intellect of deductive capability might have unwittingly not realized this. This thread is a warning to those folks. If you didn’t need the warning or to be told any of this, I am very happy for all you... this thread is for the rest of us. So, should you find it useless, please, disregard.

The Leica CL? ( I owned it) was a smaller camera than the X100 series with interchangeable lenses (40mm and 90), no autofocus, no automatic exposure. Dimensions 121 mm × 76 mm × 32 mm (4.8 in × 3.0 in × 1.3 in) Weight 365 g (12.9 oz) The Konica Hexar ( I owned this too) : Fixed 35mm f2 lens, autofocus, many types of automatic exposure virtually identical ( including the built in grip!) to the X100 series with the exception of one being digital and the other using film Dimensions 137.5mm x 76.5mm x 64.5mm; 490g without batteries The X100 Dimensions 126.5 (W) × 74.4 (H) × 53.9 (D) mm Weight 445 g (0.981 lb) (including battery and memory card)

It had to happen some time that someone would copy the hugely expensive Thumb grip for the X-T1. Some of us had quickly noticed that the “ universal types” suitable for rangefinder style cameras, don’t work on the X-T1 ( and wouldn’t work on the X-T10 too) , because of the “ hump” containing the EVF, where the flash hot shoe is. All the Chinese copied which more or less fit on a variety of cameras, quite literally, fell short when it came to the X-T1. Quite by chance, when scouring the net, I came across this “ fittest MZ-005’ which I believe is the first copy of the Thumb grips for the X-T1.

again, this thread is not about whether this would be desirable or not, it is a warning to those who might not have realized this.

In fantasyland. These threads, with respect, based on things that aren’t there are the equivalent of the fantasy soccer league. Despite the remote possibility that Fuji officials might be reading this, if a camera like the one postulated here would be already in the pipeline you are likely to see one but on Fuji’s terms non the wish list that one could distill from the many fora, if not, I certainly doubt that they will take much notice if not in general terms. I am sure that Fuji has focus groups around the world upon which they base their marketing strategy and that we might contribute in a minor way but since they have no control on who we are ( for all they know we might all be working for SONY here) our lucubrations don’t have much statistical value.

Whereas a blade can damage the LCD screen underneath its protector, I think it is possible to use a thin wire to do this. Such wires are occasionally provided with glass screen replacement exactly to safely separate things like telephone screen protectors. It’s actually cheap. http://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Replacement-including-Microfiber-Instruction/dp/B00D5P2W4Y

well, it is a problem is one, attracted by the low price of the X-PRO-1 unwittingly buys this camera thinking that you can use it with the OVF also with longer focal lenses. The purpose of the thread is to warn such buyers.

meaningful in relation to this problem windows 10 compatibility has no bearing on this and as such, that update is meaningless.

people who have found this out have their firmware as up to date as it possibly can be on a camera which hasn’t received meaningful and to this point updates in a while.

@kkonkrkete : follow it at the very top of each poll, it shows the amount of votes. Yet again industrial production is not a democracy.

if it ain’t REALLY broken.......

As I told you, it is normal. If it is on if the battery is removed it means that the LED glows of residual energy but isn’t sucking it from the the battery, like the afterglow of a fluorescent lamp

the level of brightness is the only thing that might be different in our cameras , mine, as a said, is so dimly lit that I can only see it total darkness. But LED lights have a tendency to stay on even after being switched off. This happens with fluorescent lights too. LED lights eventually do stop showing this freak effect but it might take hours or even days. The other possibility is that electricity leaks from the camera to the LED. Does this happen also with the battery taken out? If that is the case we are not talking of electricity leaking but it is residual electricity which gets stored somehow in the circuitry and only very slowly dies out.

if by that you mean to say that it is visible in daylight then it is probably not functioning the way it is supposed to. Have you tried to fiddle around with the “ view mode” button on the right side of the “ pentaprism” ( the hump of the camera)?

It is on in my camera as described, with a faint light. If that is the case you don’t need to worry. If your EVF LED eye detector is lit in a BRIGHT way, then it is another thing and that’s not normal. If it is a very dim light, only visible in total darkness, this is normal.

There was another thread about this which I cannot find because the system, for some reason, doesn’t allow me to search words that are 3 or less characters ( especially unhelpful in the world filled of acronyms such as EVF LED... ) The red LED was always there but you probably never noticed that it was on. In order to verify this I had to go in a room with no light at all and see that it was indeed on. So my LED is on but its light is VERY faint. LED's stay switched ( for a LONG while) on even when you switch them off. So this is the light source that enables your camera to see when you put your eye against the EVF and switches it on or off when you no longer are looking through it (if that’s the mode that you have selected). But the LED is not really “on” at least, not in the real sense of the word. The internet is awash with threads which explain this LED feature in all sorts of applications. Relax.

don’t then

Nice to hear that Fuji came up trumps B&H doesn’t...... All items sold by B&H are warranted solely by the manufacturer/distributor, except "direct import" a/k/a IMP items. All items needing repair (other than IMP) should be sent to the manufacturer/distributor directly for service. B&H is not liable if the manufacturer/distributor fails to perform warranty service.

From the picture, it really looks like there is a screen on it especially on the bottom right section where I can see a little white dot indicating that there is not making very good contact. It might be very thin.Try carefully to feel with your nail if there is a “ step” there. Anyway. There will probably be some protection even on the standard screen anyway and it has come lose. Once the screen is lit it shouldn’t show, I thin, in that case, there is nothing to worry.

I think you might have “ protected” your screen at some stage with a screen protector which is now just coming loose or touching the LCD screen underneath just in the middle while not at the edges. If that is the case just carefully detach it and reattach the same screen ( maybe warm it up) or get a new one.

No in case on B&H they don’t have a guarantee to honor. Get in touch with Fuji in your country. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/HelpCenter/WarrantiesRepair.jsp Just in case they might say they are not responsible.......they are, for a minimum of 1 year Should they be resistant and uncooperative get in tough with Tokio head office. http://warranty.fujifilm-digital.com/contact

as usual the first and foremost place to get in touch with is the shop where you bought it. In lieu of this the warranty applies in any country at the distributor, this is true even if you bought somewhere else. Everything sold in the EU carries a statutory minimum guarantee of 14 months. You might have not noticed this before but it was probably there from the start. Most people never notice this because they never test it.

You appear to have some defective pixels ( might be dead or not), this is generally speaking, reason to have the sensor fixed, changed or in some cases the camera replaced. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Defective_pixel