Vladimir

which lens exactly? can you record a video with the sound to compare? couple years ago I had a very weird noise on my canon 85 1.2 II - it happened to be something broken in focusing system and i had to send it to reparation.

Yes, it is

Hi Siopaomaster, I got Yongnuo's copy of OC-E3, it works flawlessly with my X-T1 and i40 in TTL regards,

can you drop the raw RAF files to check?

for all my fuji lenses (except for samyang fisheye) I use Fujifilm Protection filters, for 16-55 is 77mm PRF-77 http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/accessories/lens/

400mm f2.8 (or f4) WR stabilized

That's good to know... with ES I did not get a good result either...will try with mechanical now Thanks

Thanks a lot to nar53 for sharing FW, testing it right now

may be in personal message to avoid searchable by google result )

So many forum members have downloaded the FW already and Dropbox link is down now... has anyone mind to share dat-file uploading it somewhere else? Thanks in advance

You are not missing anything. At 180/1" manufacturer guarantees (or at least has to ) no issue with synchronization. On most cameras it's can be higher where black bar start appearing. As well it depends on the triggering system you use and the chain of them (pocket wizard activates younguo which activates Cactus). My XT1 works 90% at 1/200" with my Canon's 600EX and Profoto's. And sometime the bar is very slim and its easy to crop

Has anyone tried to use stabilizers (Nebula 4000/Beholder/Big balance like) for stills? From time to time I shoot indoors (museums, exhibitions...) with my 10-24 f4 OS and getting descent results (not all the time) hand-held up to 1/4" at ISO1600-6400 (which are the same opening raw-files). Planning to get new 16mm f1.4 to get more light in but will lose ability to decrease shutter speed more than 1/30" - 1/15". Have ordered already a Rollei MOGOPOD 1 but thinking if I could go even lighter (read more compact here) with gyroscope stabilizer if could get anything descent may be up to 1 sec exposure hand-held. Anyone got any experience with them? or any thoughts are welcome Thank you

I use microUSB charger http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Chargeur-Batterie-USB-NP-W126-pour-Fuji-Fujifilm-X-E1-X-E2-X-M1-X-Pro1-/321326137539?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_71&hash=item4ad087c0c3 no need to have any extra cable, just the same as for my phone and other gadgets. Hope next Fuji X cameras (like Sony or Samsung) will have feature to be charged directly via USB (3.X hopefully) port

I find Patona the best 3rd party and not only for Fuji, even for my Canon's 1D IV Patona batteries had almost (if so) the same capacity as original (highly costly) ones.

I do not like database type of software either (to be platform/software dependent) and not really sure Darktable is one of them (all your changes are saved in xmp files along with *.RAF files and only the thumbnails cached in $HOME/.cache/darktable). Around 60% of my images I develop in RAM copying everything in tmpfs, usually /run/shm/. And then copy them somewhere else on a hard disk. Wherever images are located, all the time I "open images just from a directory only" old fashion way I used Lightzone before Darktable and Rawtherapee adapted dcraw (for Xtrance), and find two last one more easy to use in my work-flow, but may be I hadn't used it enough I do agreed, there are plenty of different modules and not sure if practically anyone uses all of them, or like me, just playing around sometimes. However, there's option to have your favourite modules (star-like tab), where you can put only what you need, for example: exposure, denoise, white balance, shadows and highlights. Simple for starting and then you can add/remove according your needs Cheers, Vladimir

Hi, Yeap, for me is something there as well. I was looking for the closest to SHARPRNESS +2 in Fuji's in camera conversion as liked a lot the fine details produced (small radius), so for me the equivalent in my presets is 1.5 1.5 0.500, no blending. It works well only at lowest ISO's as increases grains afterwards. In general I often use highpass filter: 5% (sharpness), 5% (contrast boost), overlay (blend mode) at 100%. Unfortunately never managed to get something I liked with EQUALIZER Cheers, Vladimir

I have first version of Yongnuo RF-603C and it works just fine with other Yongnuo and Canon's flashes

Hi Stefano, I've been using Darktable for about 3 years now and highlights was really what didn't work for me initially. Then I started using bilateral filter in the module it removed completely halos. Then highlights slider doesn't work that great as in LightRoom, however I discovered another way to get it all back. If you look at the "base curve" it should be in "fujifilm like" mode by default which brings up highlights up too much for my test. You can drastically bring back any overexposed area (withing RAW range of course) playing with the curve. Double clicking on the graph will make the curve flat maximizing the dinamic range of your picture it can be a very good starting point. It's not that difficult as may look at first glance Regards, Vladimir