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Have you found a solution yet? I'm also facing the same situation as you

Is there a way to keep your menu selection on the last option you used? For example. When I select MENU the cursor defaults to MY Menu. I scroll up to IQ settings, make a change, and return to shooting. When I press the MENU button again the cursor is back to MY Menu. I really want it to stay on the IQ setting I was last using (or any other Menu setting). It's a PITA to keep scrolling up and down, back to the previous setting. (Note. My Canon Menu retains the position of the last option I was using). Thanks in advance for any help.

Im not partal to any brad, just opted to try these based on apparent price / performance. I'm always looking for best bang per buck, hence Fuji I guess - haha Reliabilty does not concern me, as I always shoot to two cards for pro work (and burst shooting is not a part of that). Made sense for me to get the cheapest / fastest CF cards for hobby shooting. I just got a Sabrent Rocket V60 512GB cheep (as the back-up card). As long as neither of these freeze the camera I hope its a cheep solution for my needs. (AB AV Pro SE 512Gb and Sabrent Rocket V60 512GB). Half a gig of redunat storge for $200USD is something I can live with. (Especially considering I can bust the hell out of the Anglebird). Cheers, Tomek

Would using an external charger be of benefit to the batteries life? I appreace it can be faster, but I doin't mind pluging in the camera over USB to charge. Does charging via the camera do as good a job as lets say the fuji's own external charger? Does the camera stop charging once the battry is full and not over charge? I couldn't find these deatails in these forums or in the manual. Thank you! Image below shot on X-T2 in a sunny studio.

It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.

Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?

The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.

I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.

Thanks for the replies everybody. But unfortunately that Amazon link says nothing about how to turn off the Fujifilm X-T20 WiFi signal receiver. I just want to know if there IS an option to turn it off. Otherwise I'm going to have to resell this beautiful camera and go back to a (lightweight) Nikon DSLR, such as the D3500 which I understand has very well behaved IQ results.

Welcome to our forum 😊

After 20 years with Canon (EOS100, 300D, 5D2, 7D2) I ditched everything and moved to Fuji XH2S a year and a half ago. I had been holding out for a mirrorless 7D2 but was disappointed when the R7 was released and realised that the XH2S was actually what the R7 should have been, and Fuji seem to be the only company taking APSC seriously. It also felt like Canon were pricing themselves out of the enthusiast market (£120 for a battery, come on!). Blocking third party lenses was the final straw for me as most of my lenses had been Sigma. Anyway, I haven't looked back since. Is the XH2S perfect? No, but everything is a compromise and this gives me the best functionality/weight/price balance for what I do. I shoot mainly wildlife and landscapes but occasionally other stuff like local events, all just for fun.

So I ended up getting and X-H2 over the X-T5 because of a good deal that came up. Needing to buy a card, I needed to figure out, what is the real impact of a card's speed for photos? In particular, I'm going to test how shooting at 15 FPS will differ between: Angelbird - AV PRO CFexpress B SE - 512 GB and Angelbird AV PRO CFexpress SX - 160 GB. How many shots can I get off before buffer fills, and how long does it take for the buffer to clear? MOP: X-H2 Factory rest, card formated, no lens (body cap on), performance boost on, manual exposure, mechanical SS @ 1/8000, IS off, Shoting RAW Compressed Lossless with only one card in. Held shutter release till buffer filled, and used stop watch to see how long for buffer to clear. Subtracted two frames from total taken as that's how long it takes me to release the trigger once the buffer is full. Repeat 2x for sanity check. ***TEST RESULTS*** ~~~64GB Lexar Pro SD 150MB/s~~~ 75 shots to fill buffer, 36 Seconds to clear it ~~~Angelbird AV Pro SX 160GB~~~ 251 shots to fill buffer, 5 Seconds to clear it .~~~Angelbird AV Pro SE 512GB~~~ 232 shots to fill buffer, 4 Seconds to clear it ***Conculsion*** If burst shooting an X-H2 at 15 FPS is your thing, buy the Anglebird 512GB SE for the same price as the 160GB SX. Below is a shot on X-T2 w/ the Fuji 70-300. I manged to fluke it off with a dead battery by turning the camera off and on again, and squeezing three more shots out (this was the last shot). Ta for now!

Xt5 firmware updated and now cannot see pics taken on lcd when pressing playback. Any ideas please? Elie

Have you tried a factory reset? Maybe you changed unintentionally a setting?

Only does that when you turn it on?

Hello. I have a x-s10 that I use multiple lenses with. Yesterday I noticed that with the Fujinon 16mm lens I'm having issues auto-focusing. It works on video but not for still images. When I half press the button it focuses a bit then when I release the button it snaps back to the previous focus point. Even though it manages to focus the image is still blurry. Any ideas please. I already did a a major google search and nobody has mentioned this issue. Thanks, Etienne

Hi everyone !!

X Raw Studio works with image files on your computer - not the image files on the camera card

Hello. Thankyou,now Is all more clear: I have take some time in your link. Let tell you. I has totaly forget this machine have "compress picture option" and not Only "compress lossless" anyway not change the experiment. RAW and this last two format look like same result about Number of recording picture. Can tell all results in this: in raw you can make 17 pictures for second. Is wrong. Is about One single Press and wait buffer. Full 30/20/10/8 not change. After 17 Need Press again. You not can Press before "redgreen light recording Is on". With preshot you can have 25 are more 7 pictures . The story change Only in jpg shot only. In jpg at 30 you have 30 picture but redgreen light off very Fast so you can shot very quicly. At 20 shot Is about start look like infinite shot. 60. So the best performance are this last One about Speed and recording picture after camera working witout big limit. I want take a shot about Italy cyclet Just for passion. I think i Will use this last setting. After Need check when battery not are full change and ambient temp. Anyway my cam look like exactly specific about you link. Im Happy my cam working perfectly.

I do not use Flickr, so I do not know what their BB code is. All I did was copy the second link you provided, (starting at https: and ending at _k.jpg — leave off the [img] and [/img] tags) and pasted it into the message. After a moment, a message popped up asking if I wanted to paste it as the image or as a plain link. I did this twice, the first time I had it paste in as the image and the second time as a link. Nothing fancy or tricky.

So do I just copy the BB code from flickr and paste it anywhere on the page like other forums or is there some other trick I need to perform to get it to post?